kmrmike Posted March 8, 2007 Posted March 8, 2007 I have been a member of the forum for a short time and have learned quite a lot from all of you. I hope the support will continue as I finally am able to start my project. I have plans for the CS20 and the Spindrift 11N. Because there is no room in the garage at this time I decided to build the Spindrift 11N using foam and fiberglass construction. (composite) I've been interested in the different technologies other than wood for myself and possibly other perspective builders . I hear many different stories as to the pros and cons of both types of building Quote
mustangermatt Posted March 8, 2007 Posted March 8, 2007 I built the centerboard for my cs 17 out of foam and glass instead of wood. It came out very light and strong. What I did find was that I like working with wood better than glass, but I think the composite is an excellent material. I also have considered building a glass boat, so keep us up to date :-) I am especially interested in how the weight comes out. I have always thought glass would be lighter, but I have read the opposite on the forum. Quote
kmrmike Posted March 8, 2007 Author Posted March 8, 2007 I plan to use 22 0z Triaxial on the hull bottom, 1700 outside sides, 1700 inside bottom and 1200 inside sides Quote
Melissa Goudeseune Posted March 8, 2007 Posted March 8, 2007 What kind of foam are you using? Also, how did you join the foam to make it long enough? A narrow strip of fiberglass at the joint? I'll be following this build with interest, as I'm planning on building a fiberglass-over-foam Spindrift 10 this summer. Michel Quote
kmrmike Posted March 8, 2007 Author Posted March 8, 2007 I joined the two pieces of Divnicel foam(5#) with Q cel and epoxy with no glass tape Quote
kmrmike Posted April 29, 2007 Author Posted April 29, 2007 Ray, I'm making some descent progress on the Spindrift . Since the last post I've built the centerboard, CB trunk sides and cap, rudder cheeks with built-in doublers, cut the foam for the boom, received the hardware from Graham, glassed in the forward and nesting bulkheads yesterday, added the hard points for the rudder on the transom and am vacuum bagging the glass on the inside section of the transom today and hopefully will install it tomorrow. I have not installed the doublers on the nesting bulkhead at this time as I am thinking of using Gary Prater Quote
kmrmike Posted April 29, 2007 Author Posted April 29, 2007 Ray, I was going to use the phenolic type micro but my supplier said I shouldn't use it below the water line...guess its ok the sureform shaper you talk about, is that like a rasp type file like the one made by Stanley tools? Quote
kmrmike Posted May 6, 2007 Author Posted May 6, 2007 Progress photos for Spindrift Composite. CB made using the same Technique as the rudder. Quote
Howard Posted July 23, 2007 Posted July 23, 2007 Have been watching this with interest. Something recently occurred to me to pass along. A few years ago I built a foam cored wind vane for a self steering wind vane setup. I covered the vane with a layer of light glass cloth and epoxy, then painted it with white Brightsides polyurethane paint. The solvents in the paint made it past the epoxy coat and did some damage to the foam core.....it sounded rotten and hollow after it was painted and you could dent the surface with a fingernail. Not good. Note that a lot of things will do damage to a foam core. Epoxy works well, but polyester resin will eat it alive. Many of the oil based paints will too. The point is when you get ready to paint, test your paint on the foam core before you paint. Water based LPU's or an acrylic latex should work.......but don't trust the epoxy coat to protect it. Quote
kmrmike Posted July 23, 2007 Author Posted July 23, 2007 Howard, thanks for that information. As far as I know Divinicell foam core should be ok with either polyester or epoxy products. But when the time comes for painting I will double check with the local suppliers to be sure. What type of foam did you use on your wind vane? Quote
Greg Luckett Posted July 24, 2007 Posted July 24, 2007 The only thing I don't like about the jig is having to store it when not in use.  It is so nice for sanding the outside of the hull fair and smooth before taking it off.  No jiggleing and moving around of the hull as you try to sand it. I also have a jig for the Spindrift 10's but I will probably be dissassembling it this summer to reclaim the spac eit is taking.  I havent had any significant interest in the Spindrift 10's for sale. Ray, I am probably being dense, but what sort of jigs are you referring to? Thanks Quote
Greg Luckett Posted July 24, 2007 Posted July 24, 2007 Oh, I get it now, Ray. Thanks. I just had not thought to use that for a stitch & glue, but it makes excellent sense to do so. I have used this sort of thing to do lapstrake. Thanks for teaching me another nice trick. Quote
Howard Posted July 24, 2007 Posted July 24, 2007 It was styrofoam from these guys: (see pictures) http://www.dbalsa.com/ follow the links to generic foam cores. Interesting how them make them with heated piano wire. Perhaps with half an inch of glass on the outside an alternative to wooden CB's and rudders? Just paint the Divinicell directly and see what happens. With the foam, if you use the wrong stuff it will melt right in front of your eyes......like the Wicked Witch of the West (whom we learned in the play "Wicked", was actually the Wizard's daughter, college roommate of Glenda the good witch of the North and former love interest of the Scarecrow). Who knew. Quote
Greg Luckett Posted July 24, 2007 Posted July 24, 2007 Yes, I understood that from reading the thread you referred me to, but thank you for makin sure of my understanding. Odds are if you had not, I would have missed it. ;D I do wonder if it might make it easier to build larger boats when doing so single handed? Quote
kmrmike Posted August 31, 2007 Author Posted August 31, 2007 Making more progress on the Spindrift 11N. I also made a composite boom from 3 layers of 3/8 foam core and one Quote
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