CS20 small outboard bracket photos

[Ken Haydu]

Just a few photos of a bracket that I added to the stern of my CS20 for a small kicker. While planning for a homemade bracket, I did not find any posted photos, so perhaps these may encourage others. I know that commercial brackets are available that will raise and lower the outboard, and may try one in the future

Some considerations that must be thought out are the angle of the stern and the desired angle of the bracket. Naturally, you also want the motor to stand off far enough to allow use of the motor's tiller, and to allow the motor to be raised when not needed. The correct prop submersion is also important. In my case, it was also necessary to angle the actual motor mounting surface, so that the outboard would mount perpendicular to the waterline

I do not know if the 2hp will be enough in all conditions. Graham recommended a 4hp. The light weight of the 2hp was appealing, as was the self contained gas tank

The mounting of the engine so far to the port side may give some starboard turning effect. This position was chosen because there were already permanent backing blocks installed inside the transom at this location. It should keep the prop clear of the rudder also

The photos do not show it, but there is a horizontal brace inside the bracket which acts like an I beam to stiffen the bracket

[JeffM]

Welcome aboard, Ken! I have a similar mount for my electric trolling motor, though I have a bigger backing plate to spread the forces on my (only lightly reinforced) transom. How is your transom reinforced inside?

[Ken Haydu]

The builder of this CS20 has the foresight to add two vertical 1" x 4" vertical boards inside the transom at this point. They are laminated onto the inside of the transom

I found this CS20 in Morehead City on 15 Sept. Have not had the boat out yet, as I wanted to have a kicker along with me

I have had a sucession of sailboats here, the last being a 33' yawl. I have decided to get out of the marinas, as their fees keep climbing in this area. The CS20 can reside in my side yard

I read your post regarding experimenting with reefing. I understand that the Main Sail in the center position will sweep lower than the mizzen. It would seem that wrapping the sails around the mast would reduce their height (desirable), as well as reducing the sail's area. In that case, I guess there is no choice but to make the sprit fast to the mast at the lowest part of the sail....perhaps even fastening the snotter over the lower section of wrapped sail.

[JeffM]

Ken, I have both of the possible options for reefing luff sleeve sails: I can furl one sail and move the remaining mast, or reef around both masts using reef points (which are really loops sewn into reinforced patches to which I can clip the snotters when the sail is wrapped). I want to be able to point better, so I might see if its possible to get the wrapped sails to take a less baggy shape--maybe by wrapping something soft into the sail to take up the slack in the belly.

I'm looking forward to your posts regarding your own adventures!

[Joe Nelson CS#35]

I think you want it as far outboard as you can reasonably get it. This will help to avoid conflict between the rudder and the motor prop. Dont forget that you want the cuttout lower than having the cavitation plate level with the bottom of the boat. Due to rocker of the hull, it needs to be a couple inches lower than that.

[Charlie Jones]

plus a slight offset to the motor while running will totally counteract that turning moment from it being far off center. It's really not a problem.

[Frank Hagan]

If the rudder can get chewed up by the prop, you can always get a "prop saver" like this one from Mark Larsen's Potter 19 (I have a similar one on mine that isn't a complete ring around the prop).