Building a wood Mast

[Tim]

I used to rebel against that saying. Someone else's right and mine where not always the same. Sometimes I was looking for an improved way of doing things. Maybe a different look, less work, or cost. When you follow this path most of the time it means doing it over but sometimes you find a better way at least for you.

Now I prefer the saying "If you want standard results use standard methods". After much fusing over something the other day I told my daughter "if you want this than here's the best way I know to get it". She said "that's just it, I don't want that.

As for the mast was it done wrong the first time? Maybe they applied the best standard method of the day and the standard result of years in the weather is delamination. Some would say its say its wrong to finish bright because you will have to do it again some day. Others think its worth it. Fortunately some one believes with this boat its important enough to find the time to do it over.

[Charlie Jones]

Of course.

I think Barry and I both mean that to be taken as "don't do a half assed job"

Sometimes ya GOTTA think outside the box or no progress would EVER be made.

[Barry Pyeatt]

I'm often asked if there is a quicker/cheaper way of doing this or that. There is almost always a quicker/cheaper way to get it done right away. But will it hold up well or be relatively maintenace free.

That is just one of the issues. Will it be easy to maintain is another. Does it compromise safety?

You can always do it for less or quicker. But you may end up doing it over or having to maintain it a lot more. Wooden boats are like that. They can last a week or a lifetime. The choices are always the builders unless it is commercial or for a fee. Then you have to make good choices and somehow end up doing it right for the client and still making a $ or two. :wink:

I've replaced small wooden boat masts on an average of every 4-7 years. Some were solid, some builtup laminated and some were birdsmouth. All required more maintenace than they got snd hence didn't last as long as they probably should have. :shock:

So we have to weigh just how much it costs to replace it or pay a bit more to build it so it lasts longer. Always another way to do something without compromising the quality. Just might be more expensive or time consuming to do it that way. But we all keep on looking for better ways to accomplish that .

Epoxy helps a lot! :wink:

[Darrell H]

When using Epoxy adhesive an the manufacturer (Glen L Marine Design )says the mixing ratio is 1 to 1, does that say anything about the quality of the adhesive?

Darrell

[Barry Pyeatt]

The mixing ratio has nothing to do with the quality of the resin or its use. Stick with people that are selling to marine users and Glen-L is a good reputable firm.

The mixing resin will vary with manufacturer. It is critical that the formulas be adhered to or you will not get a proper cure. Each epoxy forumla is slightly different and each hardner is different so you can't just use a hardner in any ratio you would choose. There are different cure times and the ambient temperatures and the temp of the project all have an effect on the cure. Generally speaking, heating it up will cause it to setup and cure quicker. Cooling it down will delay or keep it from curing at all. Some hardners have only a few minutes working time and others have long working times. All of them have a recommended working temperature range. Try to use them outside that range and you will most likely have issues with the setup. If it is hotter, it will set up quicker, colder and it may not set up at all.

Don't use one mfg. hardner with another mfg. resin. And be certain that you have a hardner that is recommended to use with the resin you have.

To compound the issue, different pumps have different flow rates so it is also important to use the pumps in the way that the mfg. stipulates. Some pumps look nearly identical but one pump may pull more or less than the other. So they are marked for hardner and for resin. Keep them seperate and don't mix them up.

Also some pumps are not accurate. To be entirely accurate and for the optimum performance some shops use weight instead of volume to mix.

Also don't mix large batches and keep in a confined space. The epoxy will generate sufficient heat on its own that it will set up much quicker in a confined area as compared to spreading it out.

So...follow the mfg. recommended instructions as closely as possible and mix in small batches and be ready to spread it quickly. Spreading it out in a thin layer extends the curing time a bit as compared to it setting in the cup mixed. Mix it thoroughly with the mixing sticks and get a good even mix. And then spread it right away.

If it is colder than the recommended temperature range and the wood is cold, you can warm them up by taking them into a warm area overnight and keeping the epoxy in a warm area until you use it. Or using a heat gun you can warm the surface to be glued and then spread the epoxy and join the surfaces. The working time should be followed pretty closely or you may have problems.

It helps if two people are involved, one to mix small batches and have them ready when you need them and the other to spread it out. Then don't delay in joining the parts and clamping them. Once they start to set, they can't be moved.

But it isn't difficult, just follow the recomendations and you will be fine.

Wear old clothes and use latex gloves to handle both the epoxy and the project. Vinegar will remove the uncured epoxy and help in clean up. If the mixing cups are plastic, any epoxy left in them will set up and can be removed easily. Try to avoid getting it on your skin or in your hair, etc. Not so easily removed.

Otherwise, have a ball and just do it. :wink:

[mrthethird]

In my experience, the mixing ratio has no relation to quality. I believe it is relative only to the chemicals used in making it. Each manufacture has a different "recipe", and therefore each resin uses a different type and amount of catalyst, or hardener.

I have not used a 1:1 epoxy, but I have used System Three, which is 2:1, DMC, which is 4:1, and West Systems, which was 5:1. All were very high quality, and achieved excellent adhesions.

The mixing ratio for epoxy is specific to each manufacturer, and should be strictly adhered to. Polyester and vinylester mixing ratios can be modified slightly, but epoxy will not cure properly if not mixed exactly to manufacturer's specified ratio.[/b]

[Darrell H]

Thank for the input. And thanks Berry for the basics that is the info I really need

Darrell

[ChrisObee]

When using Epoxy adhesive an the manufacturer (Glen L Marine Design )says the mixing ratio is 1 to 1' date=' does that say anything about the quality of the adhesive?

Darrell[/quote']

No it says something about its chemical property. It will be easier to mix and simple ratio will mean fewer mistakes.