Mainsheet on loosefooted Sprit rig

[timnphx]

Anyone,

I am tryin to learn how I should handle or work the mainsheet on my Sprit-rig that is in development stages. Awhile back some of the guys mentioned that The mainsheet would be held in the hand or used on a snatch block. So this picture which has my boat and a drawn-in sail and mainsheet. Would this be a reasonable idea to run it to a single pully to the floor and then controlled in hand? :?: :roll:

[kydocfrog]

I'm going to be very interested in the replies to this. I'm still sketching various sheet arrangements for Charlie Girl II that would work for a boomless main.

DocA

[Guest]

Well this is what I use but has been frowned upon by some folks. Some people use a block at the clew and a traveler across the stern, but I chose this and have found that wth two jam cleats, I can stretch the sails out pretty tight when needed. It does take some getting use to in the adjustment, meaning one side just tight enough for the tention to be adjusted with just one sheet. It tacks pretty well without a lot of fuss, too. It too is a sprit rig. If you click on it, it will enlarge and the detail viewed a bit better.

[Barry Pyeatt]

Tim,

You are boomless on the sail as I recall so it is going to need to be routed to the rear of the boat to keep sail shape and then forward again for you to control it.

The way I have seen it best accomplished is to have a "Snatch block" that the sheet can be routed thru that will clip onto a bracket on either side of the boat or even at mid point on the transom. This will allow you to keep the clew of the sail with some tension to maintain the sail shape and position easily. Without it you would need to keep your arm/hand extended to those points to hold the main sheet. Obviously extremely tiring.

The "Snatch block" is a regular block or with a snap shackle attached to the block that will just clip easily onto an eye or bracket to attach it to a given surface. There are simple pltes with eyes welded to them that can be thru bolted to most any surface and this will allow the shackle to clip on quickly and easily. When you are on one heading you position the block so it works to the best advantage, when you change to a different heading you disconnect the block and move it to a new position that works for that heading.

There are also adjustable plates that clip onto a track that will allow them to slide from one end to the other for more adjustment and then a stop is on the plate to engage it at that point. This can be used on rails, decks, seats, almost anywhere you would place the block and want adjustable postions. They are easy to use.

Another is a traveler rod that is placed across the stern to allow the block to move from side to side with sail movement. Probably the easiest to use and effective on some boats. Not all though.

You feet the main sheet thru the block and then to where you will hold it or cleat it off. I personally recommend that you not cleat it off at all but hold it until you really get used to working with the rig.

One rig I used had another block mounted on the floorboards that the main ran thru after the snatch block. This changed the direction and location of the sheet from behind me to infront of me and allowed me to pull up on it to control it rather than needing to pull down on it constantly.

Lot easier on the fatigue factor. I think it also gave better control.

Small boats can move from one attitude to another very quickly and are influenced a whole lot more by very subtle shifts in wind or wave action as well as weight balance and sheet handling. So having the sheet run thru blocks is going to make it a lot easier to work with it.

I don't have any photos or drawings to post to show you this but feel free to ask about it. There are some others that will be happy to give some input with their esperinece and it may differ a lot from what I'm giving you. So weigh in on all of it and ask at the local Marine store about the various ways of controling the main sheet. That is if there is a local Marine store or ask on the other forums as well.

[timnphx]

Hey all thanks. It is all good stuff and helping my learning curve a bunch.

I see the picture of the sprit-rig (really nice by the way) and note that the sprit goes all the way to the lower end of your mast. You still use the "Snotter" or is there different way that you have it ?

Tim

[Guest]

Actually I have made a new sprit pole that is about one foot less. That was one for an old set of sails that I tuned the boat with, and used till I made a new one for the new sails. I still use a snotter but its a loop in the line in the place of a set of jawsm with the bottom of the sprit rounded. The same goes for the top which fits in a snug loop, on a tapered end, which is showing at the tiller handle. Its a piece of oak, custom shaped, and enlayed and glued in the sprit.

[john bowen]

Tim, I don't know if this is any help or not??

http://bateau2.com/content/view/81/28

Just that bit about Throat to Clew, that line reference.

[Guest]

you should keep the sheet in your hand.

The above is stated on that site with the pictures of the detail of the rigging. . In the loose footed rigging, and you are sailing it by yourself and sitting somewhat in the middle , the sail does not do its job as well because you are not able to stretch it especially in a decent wind. The constant strain has not been much fun, or is my opinion for any length of time.

[timnphx]

Yes I have seen this display on the sprit-rig and for me they don't offer enough detail. (I am a picture learner). Anyway my other problem with using a standard snotter rope is they seam to tie around the mast. In the original idea I was going to use the oak mast hoops which I purchased from Pert Lowell Inc thinking the wood on wood mast would look nice. However, I didn't like the hoops after I got them. They were seperating and all and looked weak. I even built some hoops out of 3/8 aluminum rod but decided they didn't look to good either plus would scratch the mast up quite a bit. So to make a short story long, I used a 6ft SS track and slides mounted to the side of the mast. For the snotter i am thinking of making up a couple of tang like strips to mount on side of mast that the snotter line will run up to, and maybe thru a small block then down and tie off. This way I can adjust tension on it if needed.

[Guest]

I have a close up and will resize the picture for you later, that is perfect for your rig.

[john bowen]

Oyster, I was only referring to the last pic were it shows a reference line of the proper angle. Some what like you have done with yours. Notice Tims line he drew in his pic.

[Barry Pyeatt]

The important thing is that the sheet go back at that angle from the snotter to the clew. Hard to do if you don't have a block for it to go to and turn on before it goes forward. That angle will shift depending upon the direction you are going relative to the wind. The only optimum placing is going to vary with each different heading and wind force. So every placement of the blocks is a compromise to some extent.

Oyster's blocks looks like they are placed great for the length of his boat and his sail. Your's will be different based upon where the clew falls in relation to the boat. I would sure pay attention to what he is recommending.

A traveler rod on the transom from side to side may be the best solution and the easiest. This will allow the sheet to turn on the block which slides back and forth on the traveler rod with the ability to control the tension and not have your arms feeling like you have been fighting a constant jerking pull all the time.

[Guest]

Hopefully you can view this rig on a 12 footer. If not feel free to let me know and I will redo them. Click twice and it should be a nice size for viewing. Hopefully you have you some quarterknees that are pretty solid. If not you can also rig your corner lines through your rubrails and sheer batterns. When you line returns foward, we also use a simple jamb cleat to take a bit more pressure off of your arm. You can also close it up and run the line through the middle and just hold pressure on it, and that will also work just grand. If you need a shot of that I can also do that tommorrow for you.

[Guest]

One more comment on your post and like my mast, I use a sail track also. I have two nice eyes, simular to the fair leads, and can also show you a shot of them, but it will be tommorrow, also, as I have the boat cover on it tonight. Have no fear, it works great for the snotter rig and sail track.

[timnphx]

Yes, I now understand what you all are saying about keeping the line from the throat to the clew aligned so as to have it perpendicular with respect to the sprit pole and head of the sail. I will have to do some mastermind stuff to see if I can come up with a way to have it travel like you say. Part of my concern is that unlike most sails in relation to their boat, the clew is near the aft of the boat, while following the sail diagram on the this boat plan, the clew is more close to midships. Thus the mainsheet will pass thru the length of the cockpit area. But where there is will... there is a way.... and many trials.

I hate being at work... I would rather be at my boat.....Messing-about!

[Guest]

Actually I had the same problem with the test set of sails. I did determine that I needed more sail area, and actually built the boat for more of a cruiser in lite winds, so this all worked to my advantage whenI brought the sails back and flattened out the angle of my sprit. You may wish to modify your sprit to be rigged in the manner of the sharpie like a lot of boomless rigs that allow you to rig your sheet to an area in the midship area. Disregard the siz of boat, since there are rigs of your size that used this style setup. If you also look closely to the french boat I think,? [notice the flag] you will see that he has his sheets to the rails midship, allowing him to sit between them.

A point of note, with reefing in the sails, the angle and length of sprit pole makes a difference with the amount that can go down in the hull, with seat thwarts as being one example if its too extreme upright.

[Guest]

Here is the bottom rigging for my pole. I use the ones with the stainless rings that allows for a smoothe movement when I adjust it. I use two that allows for the pressure to be less when securing the line. You may want to move the bottom one to the side of the mast, too, if you plan on using any jib in the future. The sheets for the jib catches on it, when tacking, if I do not pull the off wind one just before I let go on strain sheet. In some cases, it still does it, but I have waiting for winter time to change it, hopefully only have a short month or so sitting idlely beside the house. 8)

[timnphx]

Ok, I think I have the idea that will work. Will have to get time to work on it to see of course but the picture below is another pencel-scratch over my photo so will have to see if works in the real world . Thanks to all who have helped me to understand.

Tim

[john bowen]

Tim,

Be sure to send us some pic's when ya get her done. Along with some of you out on the water (you know the ones, with that BIG smile).

By the way, have you given her a name?

[timnphx]

She be, ""Lil' Marauder". 8)