Lexan

[Ed Jones]

Can someone tell me how to cut 1/4" Lexan? :? All I know is I have to keep it cool when cutting but with what liquid and what type of saw?

[capt jake]

Straight or curved cuts??

[Craig]

I used my saber saw on low speed with a metal blade. File the edges when finished Ed.

[capt jake]

Straight cuts; turn your table saw blade backwards and this will work well.

Curved; do as Craig said or a bandsaw, though it will tend to melt back together a bit. Go slow and this will minimize the melting.

Sand the edges and then I usually flame the edges to finish it off. A light touch with a propane torch will make the sanding marks on the edges disappear. Light and don't stay in one place too long.

[Ed Jones]

Straight cuts. Thanks for all the help.

[Craig]

I have more trouble with the bandsaw melting the plastic, hense the saber saw recommendation. The torch is a great idea. Thanks Jake.

[capt jake]

Craig, you are probabaly right, I have used both tools, but can't recall whick one worked teh best. I do remember trying several different blades with each.

On straight cuts, you probably won't have to sand at all. Just flame the edges.

[Dave R1]

Ed, you'll get a better cut if you sandwich the Lexan between some scraps of plywood or MDF. This applies to whatever saw you use but especially with a reciprocating type of saw such as a jigsaw.

The sandwich thing works for things like aluminum or other sheet metal.

[Tom Lathrop]

I don't understand sime of the answers to this question. My experience has been quite different.

The problem with cutting Lexan, acrylics or other plastics is heat. Keep the cut cool and there is no problem. Both tablesaws and bandsaws run pretty cool when the blade has a fair amount of set and the workpiece is run through in a smooth motion without hesitation. Any reciprocating saw like a jigsaw has a small blade that gets hot enough to melt the plastic behind the cut. First choice - bandsaw and for straight cuts - tablesaw.

In those instances when you are forced to use a jigsaw, use a medium coarse blade that will work well on the thickness at hand and use a slow speed. All in the effort to keep the cut cool.

I recently cut out 1/4" Lexan windshield panels on a bandsaw and there was absolutely no problem. This was on a small 12" bandsaw and a larger one would have run even cooler since the longer blade would have more time to cool between cuts..

[Florin {VACATIONER}]

When I bought my Lexan (ballistic-polycarbonate)at the Industrial Plastics, they told me that Lexan is quite different than plexy. Plexy breaks very easy. Lexan on the other hand you can cut with pretty much anything and is very tough. I wanted it for my cabin windows, so I made a template out of ply and cut all 4 windows with a flush trim bit and a router. They came out perrfect. First I rough cut them with a jigsaw with a metal blade. I wanted them to be flush with the outer window rings. I used the same template for the rings btw.

When I bought the 4'X4' piece they cut it for me out of a 4X8 sheet on a table saw... the blade wasn't reversed and it made a perfect cut. Don't remove the protective paper until ready to assemble to avoid scratches.

No oil or any kind of lubricant/coolant was used in any instance.

Good luck!

Florin