Guest Posted October 10, 2004 Posted October 10, 2004 All of the above can be done with a scroll saw, and skill saw, the basic tools of wood working. Its not rocket science. If you have a question concerning terminology, just type in google for a diffenition of it. Or make a list and I will answer to whatever I have used in the post. I will be doing an update, pertaining to the next step, as I am doing the same thing, but will be using a dodger for the not so distance future. Later, it it works out to my liking, I will fabricate a fixed cover for overnighting. Quote
warthog5 Posted October 10, 2004 Posted October 10, 2004 See how those Dog's love their pix taken. HeHe Quote
Steve Day Posted October 11, 2004 Posted October 11, 2004 Mike, Looks like the boat is coming along nicely. I really like how you are doing the decking. Thanks for the peek into the progress. Steve Quote
Guest Posted October 11, 2004 Posted October 11, 2004 Thanks Steve. I posted my latest update on the Waste No Time thread. FYi , it also shows the method I use to make sure all deck members are true and uniform for the solid boards, to keep from any dips and the likes. Quote
Guest Posted October 12, 2004 Posted October 12, 2004 Here is the process of the curved lamination. Dealing with the compound curve, you can do it two ways. I only had the width for this approach, but most of the times if its not to tight of a bend, you can do it with a wider piece, cut thinner. Notice the seam at the centerline. I stager the next one just off center, and then use one the complete curver for the third layer. Depending on your width, you can repeat the process after these layers cure up. You glue it up and sand it uniform to the shape of the curve on top, and follow the curve parrallel on the bottom to match. You can just leave it wider, too, at the centerline tapering, aft to the width of the side coaming. A point of note, I use small wire brads, tacking the strips in place, during the process, Upon curing and removing them for clean up and bedding, I just pull them through the back side, or crive them backwards and pull them out, depending on the length of them. Keep in mind you will need to twist the center part with the clamps, as shown, using small blocks at the clamping points to help eliminate breakage. You must pick your woods very carefully, to manage this tight of a turn. I use thickened epoxy for this process. All of this process can be used to do both a raised coaming or a flush coaming too. [attachment over 4 years old deleted by admin] Quote
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