CS20 #65

[Designer]

I think that dreamin' is the engine that drives us on.

1. I often use cutouts in the aft bulkhead for access, but if it is open then water will get in. This is okay if you only stow things that can get wet. It is necessary to have drains (limber holes) to let the water out. I don't like cutouts in the side tanks as water drains back through the drain holes as the boat heels.

2. I personally prefer the sail track for easier reefing, although the sleeve luff can be reefed.

I used the main sprit as a boom to support the tent on my Bay River Skiff and it worked very well.

3. A motor is a matter of preference and how you use the boat. Because the boat sails very well and will move in very light air, a motor is only necessary if you need to run to schedules. I have often used the boat as a motor boat without the rig, but I never take a motor when I go sailing.

I stow the mizzen in the reefing hole when I want to row any distance, but I often row with one oar while steering with the other hand for short distances. I like to explore the creeks in our area and often there will be a permanent hole in the wind caused by the tree line, a few strokes with one oar and I am on the other side of the hole and I am sailing again. I call it motor sailing.

[JeffM]

Thanks, Graham!

I was thinking I might need to install a flap of some sort to cover openings in bulkheads to keep spray, rain out. The problem of water sloshing INTO the tanks I hadn't thought of, but I figured the openings would be rather high up anyway, just to help keep gear from rolling out.

Also, would it be wise to leave a way into the bilge for water that might collect behind bulkheads? I figured to leave limber holes in the fore and aft bulkheads by the keel batten. I worry about prolonged dampness.

Your "motor sailing" method sounds like just the way to do it. Maybe I'll leave the oarlocks where they are.

As I wait for my lumber, I want to finish building my dolly and cradle. Does Graham or anyone know what the relative heights of the keel line should be at the aft bulkhead, center frame and foreward bulkhead on a CS20?

[Terry Dunn]

But I'd like to be able to do it without moving the mizzen. Has anyone actually tried it with oarlocks moved aft, and a removable seat, etc?

I installed oarlocks further aft and made a removable seat. It works pretty well for me. You have to keep the oarlocks far enough forward to avoid conflict with the tiller. If you are going to do any serious rowing, moving the mizzen would be good as Graham does. I use 9' spoon blade oars.

I have made two removable seats. The first one set across the hatch with lips to hold it in place. The second sits on cleats. I have not rowed with the second yet.

[JeffM]

Thanks, Terry. I might think about this awhile longer. Meanwhile, how hard is it to make decent oars? How expensive to buy?

[Frank Hagan]

Thanks' date=' Terry. I might think about this awhile longer. Meanwhile, how hard is it to make decent oars? How expensive to buy?[/quote']

Check out Bob Smalser's article here on messing-about at http://www.messing-about.com/articles/oars.html

Bob does them to a wonderful finish, but those of us that hack away at things can at least build them using his method, even if they don't turn out quite so pretty!

[Terry Dunn]

I bought my oars. There are a couple of guys in BC that make them.

http://barkleysoundoar.com/index.html

http://www.lucidstyle.com/islandoars/

They aren't real cheap. I happenned to look on ebay and one of them was selling some 8' oars. I eventually purchased 9' spoon blade laminated spruce oars. I only paid about $135 but I think I got a deal because he had them on hand and was trying to reduce inventory. They were shipped in a tube. either UPS or FEDEX. I don't remember which. I think I bought from islandoars. Can't find the recipt.

They work great and are very pretty.

[JeffM]

Thanks, Terry. I'm going to think about my choices some more.

[Designer]

You should look at the previous post on oars where I showed my simple and quick to make oars with plywood blades with shafts cut from a 2x4.

[JeffM]

Thanks, Graham. Amazing oars for such lightning work! (The carpentry is about my level of sophistication, too.)

Sorry, Frank and Terry! I responded twice to the same post, not seeing that you had both posted in the meantime. I'm checking out your suggestions.

Jeff

[Designer]

The oars pictured are not my quick and dirty oars. They were nicely built by John Burrit but based on my oars.