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Posted

i don't know if these pics show the scarf all that well..but part of that is because "i get it" now...i grabbed some clear pine for the bottom rubrails and scarfed it up today. I plan to paint the bottom rubrail the same as the hull so, pine was fine..hehehenow i rhyme...

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Posted

I just got through scarfing my toe rails (3/4" X 1 1/2" SYP) on my PC at a 5 deg. angle. Both broke when installed, the scarf fell on the sharpest part of the bend and just could not take the curve. We also used 5 min. epoxy, a mistake because it doesn't have time to penetrate the wood. 1 1/2" material doesn't bend easily.

Posted

Hey Ed,

Firstly and foremost it is gOOd news that you are up and about throwing boatsheds and what not!

I did the scarfs with this jig....attaching photo. I just rough measured 9ish prolly more inches and put a little runner for the miter slot on the bottom...i can clamp a piece on there and scarf away! I do use the hand plane to get it "just so" but the table saw gets close. ANyways. I don't know what the actual angle is but here is the jig and the scrap that was cut off.

adla

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

For Scarfing things like spray rails, gun wales and in wales you can't beat Tracy O'Brian's little jig. it's fast amd acurate every time. I've built one and as usual I improved on it a little. The improvement was a substition of the key piece that rides in the slot of the tablesaw. he say's to use a piece of hardwood, but it will still shrink and swell. It's a adjustable alum piece that you get from the woodworking supply house's for building jigs. You can adjust it to a nat's behind and it will not stick or let the jig wiggle.

http://www.tracyobrien.com/article.asp?a=show&id=2

Here's a pix.

scarph2.jpg

Posted

That should work out just fine.

Ed,

I too am happy to hear that you are up and working around the boat shed again. I know how frustrating it was for me to have to just look at things and not be able to do anything for such a long time.

If you heat the epoxy to about 110 degrees, it will penetrate the end grain of the wood better and the wood around the joint will give before the joint will give.

This is one place where fast setting epoxy just isn't what you want to have.

For someone just trying this for the first time. Don't clamp the joint too tightly and squeeze out all of the epoxy. You do need a layer of epoxy between the two pieces for it to bond. I know several builders who regularly score the surface of the joints with a sharp knife blade to leave small grooves in the surface of each face just so that there will be a little more epoxy there to bond.

A jig such as one of these generally makes a good cut. The really critical part is being certain that your blade is at a true 90 degree angle and that the piece beind scarfed is clamped in place so it can't shift.

I use a length of UHMV for the runners on my jigs to fit in the table saw aand router table slots. They don't swell or shrink and they don't get hung up on nicks and dings. Self lubricating and they slide ohhhhh so smoothly. But for a jig that doesn't get used that much it may be overboard.

Posted

Hi Laura !

Thanks for the compliments...i am working on the boat, working in real life and going to school right now...*ack*

colors of the boat : Red and off - white...with mahogany brite work. I haven't done anything since last sunday...

I will name her Morgaine...Mary Stewart Bradley wrote a book called the Mysts of Avalon and that is where the name comes from.

Nice to meet you!

A.

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