"True North" Update and "Thinking Gaff Riggin

[Ken]

An upate on "True North" - Derek's project that I took over about a month ago.

I have finished glassing (whew!) and epoxying over it ....then I spent about 10,000 hours sanding it - or so it seemed. I am in the process of varnishing the porthole covers, shelving, chainplate partners and rubrails. This past weekend I even managed to get one of the coamings fabricated. Next will be to flip the boat and finish the underside with epoxy and then finally throw a little paint on the old girl (or boy?).

Here is one place where I could use some input.... my plan is to install the rubrails with epoxy. (I know, that would seem to be fairly permanent) I plan on attaching screws on the inside where I have access and using a brad nailer on the outside where I can't get to the inner area. I will be adding some protective and decorative trim to the rubrials to preserve them as much as possible. Is it fairly standard to have the rubrails installed before painting? - that would be my inclination...

Appreciate all the input I received (especially Barry and Jake) on the design of a cabin hatch and I think that I have come up with a plan. Before I risk the embarrasement of telling all, I will see how it turns out and let you know.

Now on to rigging......Apologies if this has been discussed before (then just refer me to the discussion), but is anyone out there used the single halyard that is referred to on the "Gaff Rig Pages"? Seems like it would simplify the raising of the mainsail - using one halyard onstead of two...... any input is appreciated. (Also playing for the first time with inserting an image and a URL so if it's all screwed up......SORRY!

Ken

http://www.messing-about.com/gaffrig/gaffhaly.htm

["Note that figure "H" has a single halyard serving as both peak and throat halyard, which Leather says is used by some gaff rigs in sheltered waters. This might be a good solution for simplifying rigging on smaller craft, with gaff main sails under 100 square feet."]

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[Johannah]

The single halyard will reduce your ability to trim the sail to circumstances. Easing the peak halyard while letting the throat be is a quick way to depower the main while maintaining headway. Seems like many of those who love old gaffers just like twiddling with the lines. Thus the occasional call to add a topsail just to make life more interesting, or to move to a cutter rig, ditto.

[Barry Pyeatt]

It would be a good idea to keep them seperated so you (as Johannah just stated) can adjust the Peak Halyard while sailing. It does require some adjustment to keep the main sail shapped correctly. If they are combined you loose that flexability. Raise the main and tie it off then adjust the peak by having the halyard run back to the cockpit and then you can work with it easily while sailing.

It does offer a quick way to depower the main in a hurry by dropping the peak. That can come in handy under a number of different situations as you will discover.

OH come on now, 10,000 hours, that is beginning to approach what Capt. Jake has in his epoxy sanding and polishing. :roll:

Glad to hear you are making progress. Looking forward to seeing what you do with her. Boats are hers, ships can be anything but they are still referred to in the female gender. :wink:

[John B]

what they said. too much fun playing with the halyards for a good set.

why don't you just have the 2 halyards with no purchase.ie from the span, through a turning block at the masthead to the deck. same for the throat ( but through the throat crane obviously). That would be enough for a 100 ft sail wouldn't it.( you're all going to tell me that is how it already is aren't you).LOL.

[Johannah]

John B, could you post a picture of your boat so Ken can see the context for your comments. Ah, come on, I can never get enough sailing pics from New Zealand! 8) Here's a link to get us started:

http://media5.hypernet.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=6;t=002222

Just a hint for finding John's boat in any pics from NZ - he likes to keep his collection of hand made dinghies prominently displayed.

[John B]

I've been looking for a photo without dinghies in it( dang things, can't take a step without tripping on a kid or a boat)

There's this one.

oh , but hang on Jo, there's still dinghies in it......

but seriously now....

This is a link to an imagestation album. photos taken at The Mahurangi wooden and classic boat regatta in late Jan this year. that will give you an idea of some boats floating around in NZ. No weekenders though. I'm keen to see one in the flesh.

http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4287869799&code=8576142&mode=invite

[High C]

Ken, regarding the rubrails, here's how I did mine:

1) finished and painted the hull first

2) painted the rubrails (different color) before installing

3) glued (Gorilla glue) the lower rail in place, with screws behind, not easy

4) caulked with a tinted caulk to keep water from getting under the rail and perhaps into the screw holes. I used a water based caulk which was easy to work in and wipe neatly with a wet rag.

5) upper rail, I thought should be less permanent since it's the one that takes abuse. The lower rail may never touch anything. I prepainted the deck and the rail, then set it into a bed of NONADHESIVE caulk (Polyseamseal) and drove screws from above into the framing under the deck. They can easily be removed for repair or replacement.

Here's a pic of my rails:

[Barry Pyeatt]

High C did a really nice job with his rails. It turned out very neat and clean.

I plan to place the lower rail after glassing and finishing as well. That way the hull has an uninterrupted glass and paint surface. I will mark and drill the holes for the screws before I finish so that it is already located. Then when it is finished I will just put a bed of caulk on and set the finished rail. (I will finish the lower rail on all sides before installing it.) Again, less opportunity for moisture incursion.

I have the top rail installed before I glass however as it sets the hull shape and stiffens the entire hull structure. It is also finished prior to glassing on my Weekender and then masked off for glassing and painting. After that is done, I will apply the last coats of varnish.