Interior paint

[Jan Williamson]

I have the cabin primed with two coats of exterior primer, the forepeak, lazzerette, and one side of the cockpit underseating epoxy coated, primed with two coats and painted with two coats of exterior latex enamel. I didn't notice anyone in the threads mentioning anything about how many coats of paint they used on the inside. So once I get the foam installed in the lazzerette, I think I'll install the other hullside. It has been cold in Yreka this last week, snow and all. So I have had to run the heater in the garage in order to paint, but I'll have to open the big door to cut out the other hull side and cut the rub and tow rails, letting out all my toasty heat. Does anyone have any thoughts on how many coats of paint I should use in these areas?

[Barry Pyeatt]

Hi Jan

You're making good progress.

I generally use two or three coats of primer depending upon how well I did the surface prep. I will apply at least two coats of finish paint sanding between coats. I will only use a third coat if I screw something up.

[Jan Williamson]

Thanks Barry how are you this morning?

When I was doing the forepeak (getting paint in my hair and everything) and even painting behind the lazzerette with only one hull side on, it really hit home on how difficult it would have been had I put the other side on first. I am saving the cabin floor for last, after all the paining is done. I am kind of sloppy.

I think I will line the undersides of the seats in addition to behind the seat backs with 2 inch foam before closing up the cockpit area. I did cut out a small lazzerette hatch in addition to the one on top. But I want the transom area to have maximum foam, so I think I will just leave a 12" by 12" compartment open for some storage. I like your idea of the conduit running through the seat back area for possible future wiring.

[Barry Pyeatt]

Yes, it is amazing how much easier it is to do things while you are building and how difficult it is to try to do it after you have closed it up.

That was one lesson I learned early on when I had to try to get some additional wiring from the engine room (read that as very cramped hole in bottom of boat with very small access) to the other parts of the boat. I figured that if there was a pre-planned conduit run to those areas from the electrical panel that it would be a snap. :idea: :idea:

It was only later that I figured that you still had to get the wire thru there. So then I learrned about pull cords and placing them in the conduit when you install it. :roll: I may not be good....but I'm slow! :wink:

I agree it is a good idea to leave the cabin sole until you are finished. Otherwise it will get beat up unless you cover it. Paint and place cardboard over it cut to fit after it has dried completely. cover that with heavy duty polyethelene sheeting taped to the stringers on either side. Then you only have to remove the cardboard and you're done. :idea:

One thought about placing the foam in the Lazerette. You might consider putting a few small blocks glued to the underside of the bottom piece to hold it up from the bottom so it can have drainage and ventilation. That will help prevent any standing water from causing problems later on. :wink:

[Frank Hagan]

With latex paint, two coats is usually enough. Latex is so much thicker than a comparable oil paint that you get a pretty thick coating with one or two coats.

You also should let one coat dry a week or so before repainting. I painted on three coats with just 48 hours between them and the surface was soft for 6 weeks ... I could easily dent it with my fingernail, and I was afraid I'd have to scrape it off and start over. I guess the latex paint cures by evaporating the water out through the surface, and if its too thick, it takes a long time to cure.

[Zeroice]

I found just 2 coats of a good oilbased polyurethane paint to do the job in my weekender. I put it on quite liberaly though!

[Jan Williamson]

Well I finially found out how to get back on this forum. I had a error reading everytime I clicked on the main forum. Frank, thanks for your help.

Anyway, I did the two coats of latex, with a well heated garage. But I only let the first coat dry for 24 hours, But this is the paint behind the lazzerette, in the forepeak, and under one cabin seat. So I think it will be OK, since it is reasonably undisturbed. I have yet to install the other hull side. Barry, I have purchased the PVC pipe to install behind the seat back for wiring, but I think I can wait to add both seat backs until the hull is finished and it is flipped over to finish the deck. I did install the foam behind the lazzerette, but I glued them together slanted toward the lazzerette, so the bottom of the foam is touching the sole only on the corners. Does anyone ever install a drain plug anywhere?

[Steve Downs]

Hey Jan, I am really impressed. You have made such great progress in the past little while. Congratulations. My boat is getting closer to getting started. I finished my workshop (exterior) and will start soon. I know what you mean about that precious heat in the garage. Keep at it.

[Barry Pyeatt]

Yes Jan,

There is a nice little PDF file somewhere about a thru the keel drain at the front of the cockpit. It is a great location as that is where the water tends to collect. A weep hole can be put in the bottom of the main bulkhead to allow any that collects in the cabin to be released to the cockpit. A simple plug can keep the water in the cockpit from intruding into the cabin.

There have been some discussions about various ways and locations for a drain. But the obvious place is at the front of the cockpit.

[Barry Pyeatt]

OK Jan,

Here is the link to the cockpit drain planlet from the Stevensons.

http://www.stevproj.com/Planlets.html

[Jan Williamson]

Thanks Steve for the nice encouragement. We all need that Looks like you are ready start too! Fun, isn't it?

Barry, Thanks for finding that PDF file. Notice they install the drain right in front of the lazarette. That is not the lowest spot, but if you park up hill a little and all the water goes there anyway Today I will install the aft panel of the hull side and this is where I will have to prepaint after taping off the "to be glued" areas. Not too much hassle though. One thing I screwed up though is that I already glued one side of the rudder box to the part that goes through the transom (can't remember that name :roll: ), so I have to disassemble the steering system to remove the rudder box for finishing to hull. But at least I have a top hatch and the lazarette hatch. I am running the turnbuckle back to the center and hooking it on the eyebolt that is too long anyway that is coming though the transom. That way it will be easy to adjust.

[Ed Jones]

Jan I installed 2 bottom drains. I drilled two 1" holes in the bottom next to the Main Bulkhead and seats, this is the low point on the hull. Then I filled the holes with a mixture of epoxy and graphite. Next I drilled a 1/2" hole for a drain plug.

[Jan Williamson]

Ed, I see the advantage to filling the 1"inch hole first, then drilling the 1/2' into that. So you didn't go through the keel. What kind of plugs did you use?