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Core sound 17 mk3 centerboard trunk


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I am in the process of building a new Core Sound 17 mk 3 and have a few questions about the centerboard trunk. I am getting ready to seal the centerboard trunk and glass it into the boat. I have seen several threads on here that mention a rubber pad or bumper inside the trunk. It does not mention it on the page in the instructions that deals with building the trunk, but it does show it on the page where it shows rigging the centerboard. It seems like it would be much easier to put a bumper of some kind inside before I seal it up. What have others used for that bumper? How do you fasten it.....epoxy it?


Also, on the assembly page is shows filling the pivot pin hole with epoxy and then drilling it out. On the rigging page it shows not drilling all the way thru so that it only has to be sealed on one side. Already drilled it before I saw that so will need to refill part of the hole. Not really a problem, just wondered how others had done theirs. 


Any insight would be appreciated. I am probably obsessing about this a little too much, but I would rather fix my mistakes before it is glassed in place.

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The instructions for the centerboard pin was correct for the the mk3.1's. On the mk3.2 which you are building, the board was moved forward causing us to flip the pin as the cover plate hit the bunk top. On the mk3.2 we decided to give up on the detailed instructions and do more detailed plan sheets but we threw in the instructions anyway.  We will look into the instructions correct them. It should not be a problem to back fill the hole. If you are  you are concerned you could put a small glass patch over the hole on the outside.


My preferred bumper is to turn the trunk upside down with the bottom edge of the bumper level.  You need a temporary side and ends, then squirt in 100 percent silicone from your caulking gun until you reach the correct level. Put some mold release on the faces that will touch the silicone so that they can be removed. With this method you will have no fasteners that could leak into the trunk.


I cut hardened silicone tubes into 1 1/4" slices and counterbore the center to take a washer. I use a large screw through the washer and screw the donut onto something stout for a great door stop. I have watched a heavy wind gust slam our big shop doors against my stop which has compressed to about half it's thickness absorbing all of that energy. It must be about 15 years old by now.

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