RED

I decided I'm a little too late to the dance to get everything sorted without becoming a nuisance. I'll have to plan better next time. Hope the smoke clears for y'all. Safe sailing.

I am suddenly considering going, and if I do I'll probably drive down thurday night and get a room nearby or get an early start from home on friday. Either way, I've not committed yet, but I'll be sailing to the island friday am wx permitted and would be happy to sail in company.

I don't have an answer for you, but I do have a question. Do you find the spirit 1.0 strong enough to push through a strong current or tide? Also, sounds like you might be experiencing some reliability concerns? I'm seriously considering the spirit 1.0 but I'm also temped by the new spirit 2, which is likely overkill but overcomes some of the percieved weak points of the 1.0. What has been your experience?

I've got a few spots on the transom where the rudder hardware hit, some other spots where the finish looks compromised, and a corner that's gotten a little worn down. I didn't build this boat and have no prior experience with this sort of thing. What's the best thing to do here? Sand the affected areas and brush in a little epoxy, then varnish, or is there more to it than that?

Respectfully, I'm trying to understand your problem but your diagram is showing the wrong end of the sprit (if I'm understanding the problem correctly). If you're getting "two-blocked" on the fwd end,and no amount of moving the blocks fixes it, you may need a longer sprit. On the front of my sprit I lashed on a block as shown in the photo, I could have made the line holding the block much shorter.... not sure if that helps. What I did here is make a loop of line from amsteel by tieing a diamond knot, then laid the loop on the spar and lashed that line down with lash-it, of all things, putting the diamond knot on the far side of the lashing so it would bear up against the lashing. I think I used 3444 from ABOK.

You could try as someone suggested stepping up spade bits until the wood is very thin on the walls. Heat the aluminum mast with a heat gun all the way around in the affected area until its so hot you can only touch it with your bare hand for like one second max. Then see if the remaining bits of wood will chip away.

Yes is it one of those painter's platforms. I got it explicity for getting in and out of the boat while on the trailer. But it is super handy to just have around. I've used it for a table while camping even. I find it much easier to use than a short ladder or two-step for getting in and out of the boat.

I'm not sure what the plans recommend, but the old lines seemed thicker than needed. The new lines are only 1/4".

Thankfully, I do not suffer from such an affliction.

Made some new lines for the boat today, I had all white(except for the main downhaul) mystery line and I replaced it with Marlow Blue Ocean. Hands are a bit raw from all the whipping and there’s still a bit more to do with the blocks on the sprits but I’m getting there. Halyards are red, downhauls are blue and snotters are green, of course.

Thanks, I'll give that a shot.

I just got back from my first proper adventure/sail in my CS17, and I’ve gotta say—it was more enjoyable in every way than my Wayfarer. The only exception might be the occasional geyser of water that comes up through the centerboard trunk. Has anyone come up with a removable cap or plug that can be slipped into the top of the trunk once you’re underway? I’m not above jamming a pool noodle in there or something, but that feels a little less classy than the rest of the boat deserves. I did a quick search but didn’t find anything that specifically addresses this.

Reservations made for Muskegon. I'll have my new to me Core Sound 17. RED

Thanks Jim, she’s beautifully built and I’m looking forward to getting her out on the water.