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don6558 last won the day on September 22 2018

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  1. The Torqeedo "Travel" is a family of motors the largest of which is the 1103 AC @ 915 watts generating 3 hp. Has anyone considered mounting the motor inboard? Maybe I just like the work, but the modification needed is fairly straight forward and shouldn't be that hard on a finished boat, using epoxy to make the changes. I am building a B&B Yacht design, CS20M3, and have left the rear seat top off. this gives me clear access to mount my 1103 AC inboard. As of this moment I have not yet installed the motor. I have taken my pdf construction drawings and the pdf Torqeedo 1103 specification drawings and imported them into Sketchup (everything to scale) and modeled the inboard mount. I prefer to test all changes before making holes in a boat. The model works beautifully. I've been in contact with B&B Yachts about location and Alan recommends placing the motor toward center (from where it is, in upper drawing), using the cockpit side as one side of the inboard trough walls, which will keep this area from flooding. My reasons for electric have nothing to do with the environment and are purely for selfish reasons. This setup will be extremely quiet, I can charge in the middle of nowhere using a solar panel. I will also carry a small gas powered genset just in case the clouds stick around too long. Maybe here is a good place to ask, does anyone know if a 1500 watt gen set is enough to power the 915 watt BLDC while under way, if not what size? I am eagerly waiting to see how my over all vision will work.
  2. I'm going to use a 1.5kw bldc to power my boat. I'm also making my own retractable sail drive using ABS plastic. (Going to try anyways) I'm not sure what size prop to use. Using the outboard motor prop size for a 4 hp motor, I should use an 8" prop. It could be a little larger I think. I also need to know the designed "hull speed" so I can calculate the most energy efficient prop pitch. I've tried a web search and found nothing. Any questions, suggestions or warnings would be appreciated.
  3. Good info. Exactly the info I needed. As I mentioned my concern was water in tank and inspections and you answered the concern. I'm thinking if I plumb outside the tank with PVC and attach a length of garden hose inside, I can easily target the stuborn water through th access hatch like you said. Thanks again.
  4. Not so much anymore. We go rite into Mexico now to deliver. Vancouver to Nogales, Sonora, Mexico. A Mexican vacation every week, lol.
  5. Let me start by introducing myself. I'm Don and I live in the Greater Vancouver BC area. My wife and I are commercial long haul truck drivers so the time I get to spend working on my boat is very limited. I started this build 3 designs/plans ago. I'm working from the full size templates not precut kit. 1st template had missing pieces. I had already cut quite a few parts out at this point. 2nd set Graham added height to cabin. I did not realize what an impact this would make on parts cut from template 2 until I started to assemble. Unfortunately template was ultimateley to crowded and a 3rd template was produced from which I have cut and continue to cut my parts some 5 years later. A lot of my time has been making the parts fit properly. Well, I'm finally about to start installing the seats, sole and roof. I do have a question before I install the sole over the balast tank. I'll be using a 12v transfer pump to fill and empty the tank. I'm thinking I will use 3/4" pvc pipe and epoxy it into the tank from the starboard locker. Does any one have a sugestion as to how I should set up the sump foot inside to pick up the most water. I know I won't get all the water out and I'm concerned about the pleasure craft inspection stations throughout North America. Any ideas? Don
  6. Thanks. This is the type of answer I love. Not just yes or no but a clear and concise explanation so that I can make the informed decision based on my needs. Thank you again.
  7. I've started to cut out the parts for my Core Sound Mark III build. Already it's been a learning experience. I had cut out 1 shear strake and was using it as a template to cut the second shear strake. I did not realize how flexible Okume is. I had clamped the 2 pieces together with 4 clamps and proceeded to cut with my router. The rotation of the cutting bit caused the piece being cut to pull out from under the template causing it to be miss cut. I will add plywood using tape and epoxy and recut. Fortunately, this is along the joint lines and will be covered up by the joint treatment. This time though, I will use double sided tape to hold the pieces together. I'm using Fir for the stringers. Does anyone know if I should be using quarter sawn lumber or does it matter since it will be sheathed in fiberglass? Once I get all the pieces cut, I will start posting my progress. Unfortunately this will take a while as I'm a long haul truck driver. It's a long time between home/boat builing times.
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