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DaveH

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Everything posted by DaveH

  1. Ken, The nice lady in the splash well looks sad. 1. What did she do wrong? 2. Is she there to steer the engine by hand? 3. Is she being fed? 4. How much longer must she remain there? You are a very mean captain!
  2. Ken, For nine years I putzed around in my garage building my Bluejacket 25.5. Unable to step back and obtain a panoramic view of my progress, my sense of achievement was limited to completing a task on the build. There was no immediate feedback on how that task interacted with the boat in its entirety. On the bad days on the job, it sure would have been a morale builder to put my tools down, step back and see the boat in its entirety as it was coming together. Last year I pulled the boat out of the garage and for the first time I saw a whole boat. No words can describe my excitement and sense of accomplishment. I know exactly how you felt on the day your boat emerged from her cocoon. You have much to be proud of! Henry Hassell (Bluejacket 28) advised me to paint my boat a camouflage color. I asked why since I’m not a duck hunter. He said because your boat will attract much attention and sometimes it gets too much. You will learn that Henry is right. We look forward to seeing pictures of Rosie romping at sea and you and Luanne docking at the Fairmont Empress Hotel, Victoria for high tea. All the best, Dave
  3. Ken, Based on input from various forums and my plastic supplier, I’m of the belief that polycarbonates are more susceptible to UV damage and scratching but are stronger in impact situations. Last week I was on a tour of a Naval Academy 44’ training sloop. These boats are built with safety being the number one priority. The dead lights were polycarbonate and heavily frosted over perhaps from UV. i used acrylic on my Bluejacket. A very respected poster on the Woodenboat Forum says that when cutting or drilling acrylic, stresses are introduced that later will cause cracks in the material. The poster says that after working the material, put it in an oven for one hour at 200 degrees to anneal it. Lacking experience with plastics, I have no basis to question the poster’s advice. However, use of Ann’s kitchen applicances for project work is no longer an option for me after I used the microwave oven to “kiln dry” a piece of wood off my sailboat when I recently replaced a depth sounder transducer. The transducer wood spacer block was too damp to put three coats of waterproofing epoxy on it. After four minutes of cooking, steam came out of the microwave and the wood was light and much drier. Consequently, the genius decides that if four minutes of microwaving was good then three more minutes would be even better. I hit the start button about the same time I hear Ann arrive home from grocery shopping so off I head to the driveway to unload the car. Returning to the house I’m greeted by heavy smoke and smoke detectors going off. I head for the microwave and gag on the smoke. Two glasses of water were needed to knock down the flames in the microwave. The first and second floors were filled with smoke and Ann stayed in her air conditioned car for 30 minutes until fans cleared out the smoke. Scary indeed how much smoke was generated from a burning 1 1/2” by 3 1/2” X 5” piece of pine. A wake up call on how a “minor” house fire can quickly overcome the ability to breath. For a week the house smelled like a forest fire and to my surprise, after rigorous scrubbing of the microwave, it is usable though the revolving glass plate has permanent burn marks in it. Ann was very restrained after my wood drying experiment in that the worst she said was “What is wrong with you”. During my college years I had a Volkswagen Beetle engine block in the bathtub of our apartment for steam cleaning. She was satisfied with my promise that the engine would only be there for two days thus she showered along with it. However, Ann’s goodwill needs no further testing by putting my Bluejacket acrylic windows in her kitchen oven. One 2’X2’ fixed acrylic window in my Bluejacket has holes drilled in the perimeter and attached with screws. The other window is held temporarily in place with butyl tape but will will be redone with 3Ms VHB tape and no screws. It will be an interesting science fair project to see if the material cracks. Regards, Dave P.S. Your wood work, especially the galley cabinets, is an inspiration for me to step up my game when in December I return to finishing my Bluejacket’s interior.
  4. Ken, Thank you for posting the pictures of the OB 20 build in Montana. My cousin Bill lives in Bigfork, Mt which is near the northern shore of Flathead Lake which was named as one of the lakes your friends Richard and Kathy use their OB. Bill boats on Flatbead and from his home has mountain views to die for. Bill is a serious woodworker hobbyist and constructed a very large outbuilding housing his workshop. How serious is he? Like you, he owns a Festool Domino joiner which in my mind would gain him and you automatic entrance into the Ferrari owners association. I enjoyed reading Richard and Kathy's blog on building their boat. They discussed the learning curve of handling a lightweight boat when docking. I started this learning experience in May, the first time I used my Bluejacket, when my skill in docking a deep draft displacement hull sailboat was useless in docking a "cork" . I too very much enjoyed visiting other boat builders and gaining knowledge and inspiration on my build. Very kind of you to document your visit and expose us to the georgeous Montana scenery. My thanks to Richard and Kathy for their boat building blog.
  5. Ken, In a few short weeks I'll be buying a prop for my Bluejacket 25.5 with a Yamaha F70. I'm clueless how (with great confidence) one can start with boat and engine data points and convert these into prop pitch, diameter and number of blades to achieve a desired level of performance. My boat's sistership with a Yamaha F70 uses a Solas 3431-140-11 prop: 14D X 11pitch and three blades. In the absence of a better recommendation I'll look for an aluminum prop with these design specs. Since you have a different engine with no doubt different gearing, this prop information is probably useless to you so I offer it for entertainment purposes only. Within days of launching his Bluejacket 27', my friend Ed bought a replacement prop for his Honda 60 hoping to achieve greater top speed. Perhaps the right prop is only found after dropping a couple of hundred $$ here and there on a trial and error prop search. My boat is at a dealer having the Yamaha installed. I told the service manager of my belief that an aluminum prop for a non-high performance midsize outboard boat is best in order to save the lower unit when a prop strike occurs (blade breaks off thus acts as a fuse). Thought I was gonna start a debate but he said that a steel prop should not be used on an outboard of less than 150 hp because the lower units are not beefy enough to substain the shock damage when a steel blade stays intact after a prop strike. My boat's playground will be Lake Travis, Tx with its many limestone ledges. No doubt those with 40 knot Bass boats think I'm nuts to install a cheapo aluminum prop which can distort under load and perhaps cost my W.O.T 25 knot Bluejacket perhaps a knot in top speed. If I'm wrong about my aluminum versus steel propeller beliefs, I look forward to being corrected by those with real life experience before I purchase my prop.
  6. Riggs, Thank you for sharing your engine rigging experience. I have presumed that I would be making a two hour round trip trek transporting my Bluejacket 25.5 to the dealer for their marks for the bolt holes, returning home to drill oversized holes and filling them in. Next, I return to the dealer for their hole drilling and engine mounting. I had thought I was alone in going to this degree of effort to preclude engine bolts through raw plywood. Ken, You asked me about my thinking on outboard engines. First, I must impeach my qualifications on outboard engine experience. For over 45 years, I continue to be a sailboat owner thus my marine engine expertise is primary related to Diesel engines. How did I decide on a Yamaha F70? 1. Weight. The F70 without a propeller, crankcase and gear case oil weighs 253 pounds. When first introduced about six years ago it was lighter than most two cycle engines of similar horsepower. A Yamaha F75/F90 weighs 353 lbs. I suspect that the additional weight features a more robust lower unit as well as a displacement of 1832 cc versus 996cc for the F70. Once upon a time I had a 22' sailboat that swayed when towed with a 6hp on the transom. Putting the engine down below forward of the single axle, the boat towed so much better. I was towing with a Nash Rambler, had no understanding of tongue weight requirements, and probably had the tires improperly inflated. I choose to ignore these factors, and since I'm old and tired, I reserve the right to remain pig headed in my belief that keeping outboard engine weight down makes for safer towing. 2. Availability of repair personnel. I have no empirical data to support my contention/bias that Yamaha help locations are more prevalent than any other manufacturer. I have a Yamaha repair facility one hour from my front door. 3.. Known performance. A sister ship to my Bluejacket has a Yamaha F70 and reports 2.5 gallons per hour fuel burn at 16 knots. The owner reports a top end of about 23 knots. My boating career has been at 6 knots day after day under sail with the sole speed adventure occurring on my sailboat when we hit 12 knots over the bottom while surfing on Delaware Bay in the fringe of a tropical storm. So, cruising at 16 knots for me is warp speed. Will I get into a weather situation that more horsepower is needed to save me? I don't have the experience to answer that question. 4. Reliability. I have been persuaded by boating forums that contemporary outboard engines are all very good thus you can't go wrong with any manufacturer. The three folks I know with midsize Yamahas report that nothing has failed. Miscellaneous: The F70 alternator puts out 17A at W.O.T. Based on Honda 60 marketing literature, it appears that 5A are required to run the Honda. Assuming this to be the case for the F70, it appears that my engine will have only 12 amps available to recharge two 6v deep cycle batteries. Not sure if there will be enough engine hours in the day for my engine to recharge these batteries from the 50% depletion level. In contrast, the Yamaha F75 has a 35A alternator. Will your boat be primarily a long distance cruiser swinging on the hook or like mine a day tripper or marina hopper on longer voyages. How much electrical/electronic stuff you going to have? I'm tied of fixing stuff thus my Bluejacket current drawing equipment will be sparse. Your thirst for electrical stuff and life style may make alternator capacity a crucial decision factor in engine selection. I'm clueless about propeller pitch and sizing. I will copy what my boat's sistership uses. I'm told that a stainless steel prop gives better performance than an aluminum one because the steel blades won't distort under load. I'm told that a steel prop will manage a strike by only bending and transferring damaging shock to the lower unit while an aluminum prop strike will snap off a blade thus acting as a fuse to minimize damage to the lower unit. Until convinced otherwise, I'm using an aluminum prop. So there you have my thoughts on outboard engine selection. I'm a neophyte on the subject thus my thinking and command of the facts may be screwed up. Suggest you consult those with much real life experience with mid-sized outboards. Egbert Dees has an ETEC 75 on his Bluejacket 25.5 thus can provide feedback for you. This is fun stuff! Dave
  7. Graham, Thank you for the encouragement on what might be possible in regards to reducing the cost of getting my outboard rigged. So far, the service dept at the dealership seems agreeable to:. No gauges need to be installed, I'll hook up the steering and I'll install the remote control handle for the throttle/shift. They wanted $490 for the remote control handle assembly. I have one on order for $220 off the internet. The service manager acted like this was the first time he heard it when I said the proper way to mount an engine on a plywood transom is to drill oversized holes, fill them with epoxy and fiberglass filaments, and then drill the correct size mounting holes through "plastic" and not wood. A worker overheard the conversation and chimed in "Yup, that's the right way to put bolt holes though a plywood transom to prevent rot". I will do the epoxy hole work. Regards, Dave
  8. Ken, Delighted to see your recent picture posting which tells me your back on the job making great progress. Much fun to see your cabinet work. Last Friday I ordered a Yamaha F70 which should be available in about two weeks, thus I'm removing tarps etc. from my three year old aluminum trailer that has been stored in my backyard patiently ignoring my annual lies that she will be soon put in use. Yamaha is running a promotion through the end of this March which gives me a no cost warranty extension from three years to five. To have warranty coverage, a certified Yamaha technician $$$$ must "rig" the engine. I'm still negotiating with the dealer to determine what is the minimum rigging they will do and still register my warranty with Yamaha. I believe I'm afflicted with the boat builder mindset of not wanting anyone else to work on my boat and secondly, if I can build the boat I have the competency to mount an outboard engine. I need to calm down and characterize the mandatory rigging expense as the price of admission. Regards, Dave
  9. Ken, One would think that a slender kayak racer like you would not be a candidate for a coronary event. But then again, sixteen years ago my 6' tall 145 lb then 53 year old younger brother James was participating in a bike race. A tremendous athlete who could keep up with those 30 years younger and he appeared to live on a diet of sawdust and water. During the race he had a heart attack, lost conscious, and crashed without serious injury. He damaged his heart muscle thus has an implanted defibrillator and had to reduce the intensity of his bike riding. Later, while riding his bike in the Rocky Mountains the defiberallor went off blowing him off his bike. A small setback and today James is still riding. Bad family genetics got him and my 64 year sister who died of a heart attack last May. Immediately, after James' event, I had a nuclear stress test which incuded a traditional treadmill test which showed no heart issues. However, the scans of my heart revealed an area of the heart that appeared to be experiencing restricted blood flow even though I was experiencing no chest pains or any symptom suggesting a looming heart issue. A heart catherization revealed an 80% blockage in a major artery. A stent unplugged me and sixteen years later all appears well after a nuclear stress I had two months ago. Thanks to my brother, I skipped the usual heart attack event that causes one to have a stent installed. I'm sorry you and your wife had the trauma of a serious coronary event as notification of a heart blockage. You and I were unlucky to have a heart blockage. You and I are very lucky to live in an era that offers a heart repair. Reportedly, Lyndon Johnson could have lived many years longer if stent technology was available to him. Three cheers for your gallant wife! Is she enjoying the huge diamond you gave her for Christmas?
  10. To all, Please seriously follow Egbert's recommendation to vent lead acid battery compartments. A battery story: My golf cart has six 6V batteries. A few years ago my cart was struggling up a long steep hill with three on board. By the time I got to the hill top the unmistakable smell of melting electrical wire insulation was present. Not the first time this has happened and usually means a battery cable nut is loose on a terminal thus creating resistance/heat. I remove the seat covering the batteries, found the smoldering cable and wiggle it to check the cable to bolt connection. The explosion blew apart the battery top exposing the plates, sprayed my arm with battery acid and the sound caused ringing in my ears for 12 hours. Since I was bent over at the waist checking the battery with my face about two feet above the battery terminal I'm amazed that my face wasn't hit by plastic fragments or sprayed with battery acid. This was one of those days I'm glad I wear glasses full time. Before each use of my cart, I now check all battery cable connections for tightness. Post mortem: At the hill top, by removing the seat before checking the batteries, I would think that any hydrogen in the compartment would have mostly dissipated before I wiggled the cable. The terminal is just a bolt set in goo that holds it in electrical connection with a plate. The goo had melted and when I wiggled the cable perhaps the dislodged bolt rubbed against the plate and created a spark inside the battery. My theory is that the battery had a rapid build up of hydrogen that didn't have sufficient time to vent through the caps thus the explosion. When seeing bubbles in the electrolyte during charging I understand that gases are being created. The literature says that hydrogen gas is normally not given off during severe battery discharge. Is sulphur dioxide given off during discharge and is it explosive? I can only guess what caused the explosion but with absolute certainty I can attest to the violent consequences. All battery compartments on my Bluejacket will be vented and never again will I stick my face over a troubled battery without wearing full face protection. I am one very lucky guy in regards to what could have been. Before my battery explosion, you could count me among those exhibiting cavalier behavior around lead acid batteries. I now view them as a potential bomb. Regards, Dave
  11. Ken and others, For years I have been following this boat building thread depicting construction of a 27' wooden express. . http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-boat-show-photos/268706-building-27-custom-express.html The builder is a Coast Guard Chief Petty officer who is in the aviation community. He may be retired now from the CG. His tread has the geatest number of followers of any boatbuilding thread I'm familiar with. His understanding of materials and obsessive need to build the "right way" are in my mind legendary. The technical wisdom and debates provided by his thread followers has been of immense benefit for heading me in the right direction for sources of supply and understanding the properties of materials in a marine environment especially saltwater. The thread is now up to 285 pages and the builder's boat has been launched. Like all internet sourced information, the boat builder's thread has its share of people getting nasty over stupid stuff but the highly opinionated builder does a good job of staying above most of the frays and keeping people on point. This is must reading for neophytes like me when I started my boat build seven years ago. Unfortunately, I didn't discover the tread until about three years ago. Regards, Dave
  12. Ken, After constructing a plywood cabinet with some decorative trim, I bask in my glory of being a self proclaimed accomplished woodworker. After viewing your furniture project pictures, I return to the reality that there's the woodworker varsity and junior varsity. You sir are a letterman on the varsity. I'm a struggling freshman on the junior varsity. What I most admire about woodworkers such as you and Tom Lathrop is that you understand the properties of wood and how to make the wood go where you want it to go and be happy staying there. To this, add in artistic creativity and you all inspire woodworkers like me to strive harder. Thank you! No doubt the interior of your boat will be magnificent in design and finish. I wish you were way ahead of my build so I could have stolen your expected clever design and fabrication techniques. On the junior varsity we still use biscuit cutters. I have yet to replace the broken springs on mine so I have to manually retract the cutting blade. A penny saved is a finger cut off. When the Dow Jones hits 25,000 I'll start shopping for a Festool domino cutter. Cheers!
  13. Ken, Thank you for posting the roll over pictures. The hull of my Bluejacket 25.5 was constructed upright thus I enjoyed the benefit of quick gratification of having a structure that I could walk around in and visualize its intended use. After my boat was rolled over for months for bottom coating and fairing, I lost some sense of the end goal. I remember how excited and motivated I was when the boat was rolled upright and again I could climb through the structure. For the first time, and after much hard work, you now have a boat to climb through and can unleash your creative thoughts and dream of destinations distant. No doubt the excitement of a first glance at your upright boat was a magnitude greater than mine after I finished the bottom work. After viewing your pictures, I remain perplexed over the young lady who is doing a head stand. Consequently, I ask: a. Did she do something wrong and is being punished? b. Is this a ritual giving thanks to the Canadian God of boat building? c. Is this your wife who is throwing a fit because your hobby is boat building instead of stamp collecting? Keep the boat pictures coming! Bravo Zulu. Regards, Dave
  14. Ken, My Bluejacket build in Austin, TX awaits my December return from our seasonal home in Annapolis, Md. First task is getting a Texas Parks and Wildlife game warden to inspect my boat and assign a HIN. I understand the inspection purpose is to ensure the boat is really a new build and not stolen with a crook looking to get a replacement HIN thus later a clean title. Next, I shop for a Yamaha 70hp four stroke. During the Annapolis powerboat show I talked to Yamaha factory reps asking when the next sales promotion (e.g. free extra year on warranty or a cash rebate) will occur. They had no dates and suggested I stay tuned to the factory site for announcements. I have lied to myself for years on when the splash date will be, but here I go again in predicting a splash by early spring (2017 that is). This will bear watching. Regards, Dave
  15. Ken, You and I talked last spring when you were searching for the right boat to build. I'm building a Bluejacket 25.5 in Austin,Texas. Imagine my surprise and delight to stumble on your documentation of building an Outer Banks 26. A very handsome boat indeed and no doubt will be built with the same level of precision and finish that characterize your surf ski builds. Thank you for taking the time to post pictures and count me as one of many who will enjoy your build and will learn from your efforts. The only downside is your pictures have afflicted me with a severe case of workshop envy.
  16. Egbert, With the uncertainties of flooded roads, it would have discouraged many an automobile traveler from the trek to Grorgetown. You not only attended but towed a 26' boat into this uncertain travel venue. You are indeed a dedicated and fearless captain. I'll follow you anywhere! Best yet, the show attendees had an opportunity to see your Bluejacket and perhaps ignite or reinforce a passion to build one. Bravo Zulu!
  17. Egbert, Thank you for posting the wiring diagrams. I will start wiring my Bluejacket in January 2017 thus will benefit from your documentation.
  18. Gas tank ruminations: Two years ago was the last time I read the USCG promulgated regs on gas tank installations. Heavy reading featuring plastic tank permeability ratings interacting with tank compartment volume as the prime determinates whether the tank compartment needed ventilation. I made no attempt to do this analysis as I lack both the mental capability and the patience. With some plastic tank manufactures now conforming to CARB standards, permeability is reduced so there now be some relief on the ventilation issue. I remain steadfast in my understanding of the regs that a metal tank compartment needs no ventilation. When Ed F. had his BJ 27 surveyed for insurance purposes, I recall the surveyor was hard over that the gas tank compartment had to be watertight. Ed asks how was he supposed to ventilate a watertight compartment? Surveyor admitted his and USCG requirements were at odds. So Ed made his tank compartment watertight and he passed the survey. I'm not sure what Ed did about ventilation. I offer the following information for prospective and ongoing Bluejacket builders. The ventilation issue steered me to an aluminum fuel tank. Via template dimensions matched my boat's dead rise, I had a 30" long 36 gallon tank fabricated for $440. I was able to specify where the tank top fittings would be which is important as the filler neck was designed to allow use of a dip stick and easy pumping out of sediment. I have had little success with the accuracy of electric fuel senders on boat tanks. The fabricator coated the exterior of my tank with two coats of epoxy for corrosion protection. Plastic tanks don't corrode. A couple of years ago, a USCG sponsored study suggested that if phase separation occurs in ethanol laced fuel, there may be some electrolysis occurring in an aluminum tank. I don't recall whether this concern was based on a theory or testing. Of course the tank fabricator denied any knowledge of this potential issue. I'm planning to keep stale gas out of my tank. Anyhow, you pick your poison on what route you wish to go in regards to metal versus plastic fuel tanks.
  19. Egbert, During the long days you were putting in getting your boat ready for the Georgetown show, you probably asked "What have I gotten myself into by registering for the show". Ruminate not, your efforts were greatly appreciated by people such as me who enjoyed and learned from your impeccable cabinet work and innovations. Each time I see a Bluejacket's pleasing traditional lines and reflect on her performance specs, I again marvel at the majesty of Tom's design. During the show when I was in the vincinity of your boat, a quick glance found that you always had visitors on board. Wish I knew how many folks are now inspired to build a Bluejacket after their visit to yours. My only complaint is, that after visiting your boat, I was left admonishing myself for not incorporating features such as a tongue and groove pilot house overhead. Would of, should of, could of...
  20. Hello Saxe Point, Happy to give you my feedback on my Bluejacket 25.5 build. 1. Build location- Austin, Texas. 2. Start date- April 2009 3. On site at build location 6 months each year. Remainder of year (summer and fall) at second home in Annapolis, Md. 4. Retired thus available many hours each day for boat build when in Austin. 5. So I declare that I have 3 years of time invested in the build. Current status, Topsides painted thus cabin sides and cockpit still to be painted. Wiring, plumbing engine install, etc still to go. I absolutely positively need to splash my boat by April, 2016. 6. I have no idea how many hours I have in my build, and don't want to know. 7. The core question is: Is your primary motivation to build a boat based on going boating or is satisfaction in the build process? Mine is the latter thus I plod along enjoying the build process. The answer to this question will help determine how long your build will take. I have access to boats thus I'm not denying myself the joy of boating because of my plodding nature. 8. The level of finish you desire on your boat will determine how long it takes you. A rough textured fillet over fiberglass on a bulkhead seam will be structurally sound and good enough for a work boat. Want it to be very smooth and look great after you apply gloss paint? Then you need to double or triple your time on the seam as you apply fairing compound, sand, tweak it and sand some more. Apply a guide coat and sand some more looking for any imperfections. Apply primer, sand and look for more imperfections. 9. How difficult is it to build a Bluejacket? The answer depends on the prospective builder's interests, experiences and perseverance. My greatest attribute is I like to build stuff as a hobby : houses, car restorations, cabinet work, etc. I sat behind a desk for 35 years, have zero engineering training and only boat building experience was long ago on an Optimist pram. I am self taught on fiberglassing, epoxy use, spray painting, etc. Forums such as this one were invaluable in becoming a competent boat builder. 10. Tom's Bluejacket plans are excellent and he is extremely helpful answering questions, etc. 11. Bluejacket builders Blogs will help you understand the steps in building this boat. In summary. Others have asked me how difficult is it to build a Bluejacket. My answer suggests the questioner consider how does your wife and young children feel about you disappearing into the garage for long periods over many months if not years. Can you tolerate hours of sanding with purple fairing compound dust flying? Any sensitives to epoxy? The mental aspects of understanding how to fit the Bluejackets parts together is easy. Bluejacket builders will be quick to help you with your questions. Are you physically able to kneel or squat down to fiberglass components in place? The most import consideration is are you willing to put the time into the build? I believe the primary reason a boat building project is not completed is because of boat builder burnout and not lack of building skill. Perseverance is the most important boat building skill. If uncertain about your commitment to building a 20'+ boat, build a 8' boat and learn whether boat building is your cup of tea. Hope my rambling helps. Best wishes, Dave
  21. Jim, Congratulations on getting her splashed. You have much to be proud of! Best wishes for your Bluejacket offering the best of times for you and your family. Regards, Dave
  22. Chuck, On my side decks (BJ 25.5), one end of the batten touched the windshield outer edge where it meets the foredeck. The other end touched the aft pilot house bulkhead edge after it was trimmed to its prescribed shape. Midway between these two points I sprung the batten out the prescribed two inches and drew a line against the batten. But the sheer line line break creates a complication with scribing this line at the break. I used a laser to put down a line at the break. I don't claim this is the best way to create side deck arc but I'm happy with the results. The pilothouse sides on my boat tilt in the prescribed 2" as measured from the side deck forward of the sheer line break. The windshield frame and the aft outer pilot house bulkhead edges should be cut to accomplish this tilt in. Consequently, I don't believe you want to cut the pilot house aft bulkheads "plum" with the side decks. Hope this helps. Regards, Dave
  23. Chuck, In the general scheme of things, a misplaced forecabin beam is a nuisance mistake. My covering the 7' x 11' pilothouse roof with 6oz fiberglass using an epoxy mixture of hardener for both part A and part B, now that is a serious screwup. Your punishment required laminating a new beam. Mine was a day scraping and acetone washing the goo off the plywood before I could start over again. I submit that I own the most serious Bluejacket builder screwup to date and this distinction will remain unchallenged for a long time. I must end this message now as Darwin just called to advise me of the date of his annual awards ceremony.
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