Capt. Earl

Inboil do you have any pictures of your boat?

I am a very good friend with Oyster. He told me about this site and I joined it. He built a small boat for me many years ago, and will be building a cruiser for me in the near future. He loved this place and spoke highly about the members here. The boat work that filled his portfolio on a shared internet link, and his personal information was stolen and being used on various sites on the internet. Some of the posts that shared this site, ended up being posted across some internet forums. I will alert him to this thread this weekend when I travel down to see him.

I am torn between building a cruising trawler and a motor sailor. Please give me your thoughts and sell me on either idea. I am in pretty good shape, physically as my wife is also so a comfortable motor sailor may work for us. Many of the new semi displacement cruisers are not the expensive to operate, so I could go either way. The only down side of depending on a motor will be when cruising down in the islands and fuel.

I do not recommend steel wool on boat projects, if the parts are installed on the boat. If you think you have all the fine residue cleaned up, you may not find this to be true next month. I use green scotchpads which can be purchased at the grocery store. Some marine stores will sell some coarse pads that can be used for this purpose, that cleans teak in the bleaching stage, that can be used also in the initial sanding of wood.

I ran across this system a few years ago and feel in love with it. The price can be pretty expensive though when you consider the maintainance. :twisted:

When I roll or on occasions sprayed the mixed paint with the Awlquip non-skid and topcoated the mix, I have never had dirt to collect and stay on the surface when I have washed the boat down at the end of the day.

You do not need to use semi gloss paint if you intend of using non-skid on your top. I used a heavier mix of non-skid, mixed into gloss paint, and this will flattened your paint and keep the high gloss surface in tack. This will also help make the paint last longer. This will help clean any dirt and marks that may get on your surface after the boat and paint ages. I apply a seal coat on the heavy mix as an added feature. This can be done after the paint dries and is fresh without any prep work. A very good non-skid product is manufactured by Awlquip Paints. The product accepts the paint color and wears evenly over time, unlike many of the sand based products. This product comes in coarse and fine grit. I would not recommend the coarse grit in a heavy texture. This will cause rug burns on your bare skin if you slide across the texture.

Can you do another one showing more of your boat?

The way that I understand sandwich construction, this method incorporates glass that is considered a structual glass over a form or shape, that without it would not be sea worthy. The strength is acquired by the seperation of the laminates, but requires both the core and the glass to make it sea worthy. This will need proper engineering. When the use of a coating glass only, such as a finishing cloth, only, the hull needs to have the ability to stand alone, if chosen to forgo anything other than a coating for resisting abrasion in most cases. The finishing glass, with the resins, will help in the cosmetic part and seals out water, as a bonus. The way that I understand it for small canoes and kayaks, the shape will help just finishing cloth become some structual part of the hull. I do not beiieve that builders use only finishing cloth in larger hulls to gain strength and rarely will decrease hull thickness and depend on this type of glass to make up for the reduction in the scantlings. I do think a stitch and glue hull's main advantage is this method eliminates framing as a way to save weight and gain interior space that eliminates the heavy timbers and the abundance of heavy fasteners. In some conversations there may be some innocent confusion or just some oversight with terminology. This can be seen with people in different parts of the country, and may be the case here.

I have researched some sites and have read a lot about glues being used in some of the strip planked boats using a product called Purbond. There is a popular site that uses the product and offers up some comments on the product. Does anyone have any thoughts on this product for this method of building? www.duckflatwoodenboats.com This provided link offers some comments on the bead and cove strip method of building with this glue. http://www.boatcraft.com.au/adhesives.html

Will there be some difference in strength of the strip built kayak versus the plywood kayak, if the thickness remains the same as the plywood kayak?