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Everything posted by hightechmarine

  1. I would never add extra resin. It is to hard to regulate. I roll my peel ply into the fabric with the roller. This raises the resin and wax to the surface. Peeling this off leaves a more even base of resin. I am not sure that would be smooth enough for high build that's for sure. One more layer of glass is much stronger and a lot easier to fair. This also gives you some threads in the 0-90 direction. Hope to get back at it next weekend. Happy Fathers Day. PG
  2. Miyot. One other small item. The reason I like to use an 1700 or 1800 is because there is no mat attached. It is easier to wet out and behaves itself. The draw back is that the weave needs lots of filler to fill the grain. I would like to suggest that you put a layer of 8oz cloth 0-90* square weave on top. This will be much easier to smooth. It also adds structure and will take lots less filler. PG
  3. Fishman 38 peel ply is a product that goes on after you fiberglass. I helps hold things in place True it does not stretch but it will conform to curves if you cut a few darts in it. It eliminates the need to sand the surface before a secondary bond. It is a great time saver. I even use strips of it when I do the tabbing of the bulkheads. It makes them look smooth and professional looking. By the way when I said center line I do mean the keel and not the center of the vessel.
  4. Miyot. I would be sure that you had at least 4 or 5 people helping if you plan on going fore and aft. A long talk about procedure would be good. I would get long painters handles for the rollers. That is a lot to mix, wet out, roll and peel ply. Especially if you plan on doing both the bottom and topsides all at once. I would certainly overlap the center line by at least 1 foot. The 17 oz with no mat will easily go around smooth corners but I recommend caution in the bow area. This will be a little tricky. I know what you mean about fairing seams. But realistically 2 layers of 1700 is really less than 1/8 of an inch thick. A instead 5 athwart ship seams you will have 2 24' seams. Similar amount of faring. I see that you are wearing summer attire. HEAT is the enemy. I recommend the conservative approach. You know what they say about boat building. PUT IT ON SAND IT OFF. My 2 cents PG
  5. One more thing. Take the time and make a sturdy cloth rack. This way you can manage the 115 lb roll much easier. PG
  6. Glass work is relativity ease. I would get some super slow cure hardener. I would start 18" beyond the centerline and glass athwart ships. This will put a double layer over the keel. There is a temptation to run the whole length but the piece is heavy and unruly. I would overlap the seams 1"-2". You can draw out the pieces on the plywood and number each piece of glass. This will keep it straight. The 1700 that you bought should wet out fairy easily. Be patient and only do what you can. The peel ply will keep everything down and eliminate the need for sanding. You roll the peel ply until it looks like it is part of the lay up. If you mix the filler and epoxy and apply it the next morning it will bond better to your glass layer. Then sand forever and voila you will be done. Also be sure you have nice smooth radiuses on the plywood. Hope this helps. PG
  7. Greetings Miyot Things look great!!!!!!!!!. You may want to get rollers for smoothing the glass first then the peel ply. Bodi Econo Line Epoxy Rollers. These are at Jamestown Supply in RI. You can use any brand. Get several and show friends and family members how to roll the air out and the peel ply in. I have wide and narrow sizes. You want to have a can of denatured alcohol handy to put them in when they get gooey. So get enough to rotate them out. I like the name. ROUGE I am thinking about "Afternoon Nap." Some say it is not masculine enough. Love seeing your progress. I am so jealous. I have glassed lots of things if you have any questions let me know and maybe I can answer them. Glad to see you using peel ply it really works great. PG
  8. Miyot I can't wait to see the pictures. i will get me through a looooong week. You could be flipped in a 4-6 weeks. How cool will that be. PG
  9. Miyot It just looks great. The shape looks real fair even in the pictures so it must real good in person. It is killing me to have to be working and watching your great progress. Hard to believe seven months have gone by. I still think performance pics next June for both of us. PG
  10. Nice Dave. I really do love the shapes. Very creative with the upside down shot! I will say you are the neatest gluer I ever met. I finished my chines last night. Hope to get a layer of glass on this weekend. On the road again Tuesday so brakes will be back on. Have a nice safe Memorial Day weekend. Hopefully next year at this time we will be showing performance pictures!!! PG
  11. 30inTrout The reason for the foam is that here in the Northeast there is little market for a wooden boat. My background is mainly in composites. I am working very hard to hit design weight. I learned if they are to light they are faster but uncomfortable at rest. Price wise a little more expensive due to the multiple layers of glass. Speed of build maybe slightly faster. All what your use to I guess. PG
  12. Thanks Dave; I am getting my products from Composite One in RI. Unfortunately it is not open to the public. I order everything through my friend. You can only get full quantities. For instance I am getting 200 lbs of 1800 0-90*. I will have to put it on a 45* angle to get my 0-45*. Should be almost enough to do the whole boat. I think 6" is about as wide as tape comes. You can have it cut but it is expensive. I am using the super slow cure. It is better when it is hot like you have it. It takes a couple of days to cure. I am no hero. I hate rushing. Especially when you are short handed or alone. The AC helps but you know the deal. Chines tomorrow then glass. Keep you Posted PG
  13. Finally some progress. I have the core on the bottom. Chines are next. Then I am putting one layer of 18 oz cloth on the bottom. I can reach the center line now without the topsides in place. The core is not strong enough without the glass to even lean on it. I glued the pieces together using Gorilla glue. I also used the tooth pick looking things from Raptor. They worked great. 1" Raptor brads secured everything to the building jig. I have plywood covered with plastic and peel ply down the middle. It will make the center solid. 10 layers of glass before it is all said and done. I used the Penske board to fashion a stem. It was real easy to shape and it is rugged. I will put a false stem on later. Chines this week and glass by the weekend if the universe stays aligned. PG
  14. Cheers. I see that you are from RI. I am in RI two or three times a week. I like what you write in the posts and I would like to come by and shake your hand. PG
  15. When I was a youth I hung around Graves Boatyard in Marblehead MA. When they refastened boats they took the screw out and put in a bigger one or a bolt rather than just adding screws to the middle of the plank. That way the plank or frame didn't get screw sick. That is where I learned it.
  16. I would be honored to be on your friends list. I love nice work and you are doing it right. Just say no to fasteners. There is plenty holding the bow together. Fasteners have their place but too many make the wood "screw sick" PG
  17. I agree just say no fasteners. The fir loves glue with all the other stuff going on top should be just fine.
  18. Boy looks great. Lots of work but it looks like a great job. Is that your wife checking out how her basement is coming. Ooops. Check out these running lights I am putting in my t top. They are flush mount and incredibly bright. I am making a solid top. I am not putting radar or anything crazy up there. I think I am going to have a couple of days next week. Tempted to shut off the phone. Keep up the good work looks great. http://www.cpperformance.com/p-13042-stainless-steel-elliptical-led-navigation-light-kit.aspx PG
  19. Miyot; You are certainly getting there. I asked Graham for stations 6.5 and 7.5. I thought the space between was just to far. Things look a little more fair now. I should be cutting core at the end of the week. Your boat looks great I am jealous that you are that far along. PG
  20. I am building a 24 same as Miyot. I am using foam and fiberglass. I have been jumping in here it's more fun and I don't know how to start my own.
  21. Hi Jerry The article was in PBB February/March 2013 # 141. Designing Consoles for Speed. I used the guidelines for height instruments size etc. But I tried to make it a little more pleasing to the eye. I am going to make my T-Top 5x7' I will use divinacell core and e-glass. I want it to be as light as possible. This should reduce some of the diagonal bracing in the supports. If you put a canvas top up there it is actually heavier due to the amount of stainless steel structure needed to hold up the canvas. I found some slick running lights that will go right into the edge of the top. My vote is for center console Miyot. It is more versital lighter and sexier. Just my 2 cents. PG
  22. You could always put a folding canvas spray hood. That could be removed and give you a small sleeping area. I agonized over the console. I needed a mock up for the Yacht restoration school here. They are making it for me. In Professional Boat-builder they had an article on building consoles. I followed their guidelines and this is what I came up with. I am using a cooler for a forward seat. You can ruin the boat with the wrong T-top. Too many pipes BAD to little support BAD. I have some ideas but nothing final. .
  23. You just have to find people that know how to use them. You obviously do Miyot. Really looks great. Work is very busy so boat is on the back burner. I am living vicariously through you. Did you ever finish your basement?
  24. Nice!!! You are the neatest gluer I have ever met. I love the shape.
  25. Ahhhh the bottom looks great!!! You know what they say about making a million boat building. Start with 4 million. Happy Easter.
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