John Yow

On a similar note, the drawings show 1" ring nails at the center thwart. I am interpreting that to mean that the inner edge of the seat top is to be nailed in addition to gluing, is that correct? Thanks, John

Thanks Graham.

Here's my dumb question of the day. The CS17 plans show slanted vertical notches in the fore/aft framing to accomadate the cross framing (eg. fore deck hatch framing). How are you making that slanted vertical notch? I can think of a few ways, with a router jig, but that seems way too complicated??? Thanks, John CS17 #102

thanks for the information. Frankly, I will be happy not to have the added expense of peel ply. I'll just make my coats of epoxy as smooth as possible. One question...for doing vertical surfaces, are you finding using a roller the best to apply the epoxy ie, to minimize drips?

Are people taping the center seams on the CS's before adding the keel batten? I was not planning to, but as always, would welcome the experience of others. Thanks in advance, John CS17#102

What about using Peel Ply instead of plastic. I haven't really tried it before, but it might be good here. I am not planning to glass my hull, but do plan on using Peel Ply. I would welcome the experience of other. John CS17#102 ps: I think I am going to name my boat "Three Ladies" instead of "Catherine and Elizabeth," because my daughters will react to the order of the names and my wife would be left out. Three Ladies may lead to greater family harmony.

Sure looks good. You are way ahead of me. Work and family have recently much reduced my building time. I envy your progress. This is as far as I have gotten so far. John CS 17#102 [attachment over 4 years old deleted by admin]

Thanks for the responses. I'll try adding some silica to my flour. I also try to make the fillet and tape it at the same time. The idea of letting the fillet set up a bit to protect its shape before taping is one I will start using. I've found that when taping right away, it is too easy to mess up the shape of the fillet. CS17#102

I have used wood flour on some prior projects and a silica mix on others. I am planning to use Raka's maple wood flour on my CS, especially for the long fillets. I have tried some and it is easy to handle and smooth. It also costs much less that silica fillers, I think. anyone else tried their Maple wood flour. It certainly seems to make a strong fillet? John

Graham, Hope you had a good vacation. I appreciate the response and plan to install the inwales as you suggest. One other question, can I put in the keel batten before I turn the boat over for glassing the outside of the chines? Thanks, John

Thanks for the input Brent. I do have my forward cradle under the forward bulkhead, so that may not be the problem. But I may have added stress by trying to have the bow chine start as far aft as possible. I probably ended up with the normal bow chine, but it may have cause more stress. I still plan to wait to talk to Graham, but it does appear that the inwale line creates the proper bow shape. On another issue, the two halves of the bottom do not meet closely in places along the length of the seam aft of the forward bulkhead. It seems to me that some of that problem can be overcome by the keel batten and keel. I would welcome your thoughts on that also. Thanks, John

Frank and John, thank you for your responses. I am using the inwales sizes Graham stated ie, 1x 2's ; same for gunwale. I read your responses over the weekend, but have computer trouble at home and could not reply. I tried clamping inwale and gunwale to one side and found that the -wales matched very well, so I am thinking that what John was saying about those setting the true shape is right. However, I will wait to hear from Graham before proceeding on that. I have plenty of other things to do until he gets back from vacation. He deserves it. Thanks again, John

I have attached pics of #102 the "Catherine Elizabeth." So far, so good, but I have a couple of questions and would appreciate any input: 1. Trying to install the inwale, the portion forward of the forward bulkhead will not bend along the shear. ie, The bend in the inwale is considerably tighter. If I were to bring the plywood bow in to meet the inwale, the bow would be narrower in places of up to 1 1/2 inches. Should I reduce the thickness of the inwale forward of the forward bulkhead? 2. Is there any reason not to put the keel batten in before turning over the boat to take the seams from the outside? Thanks, John [attachment over 4 years old deleted by admin]

Regarding the length of the tape at the bow, I made mine about 18", but adjusting the assemblies to start stitching the centerline, my tape cracked back to about 10" to 12". To keep the crack from moving further toward the bow, I screwed on plywood pads, then added a couple of stitches (I saw the pads on the CS 17 CD and the stitches in other pictures which Graham has provided to this forum.

Thanks Graham. I'll keep at it with the pads and ties.

I have a lot of it wired up. Using a machine bolt on the bow really helped. I Will send some pictures soon. One question: I am having trouble closing the chine from the bow fiber glass tape to the forward bulkhead. So far I have used small pieces of scrap in the inside, held in place by sheet rock screws from the outside.It usually works, but I would welcome any advice and would be interested to know if others have had the same problem. Thanks, John

Thanks, Graham. Very helpful. John

Thanks for the info and the warning about the aft bulkhead. I started wiring last night and can see that it will take me a few days to get it done. I was nice however to see it start to look like a boat.

I was planning to go 3D tonight with cs17 #102, but I have only cut my bulkheads out of ply. Are we supposed to the curved solid stock at the top before installing them? ps: your progress looks great. I am looking forward to your 3D pictures. Thanks, John

I just attached mine and did it a different way. I used sheetrock screws from the inside. I will remove the sheetrock screws and have holes that I will need to patch. John Yow

John, thanks for your response about the Dulux paint. I would appreciate the number when you have time. It sounds like just what I want for the cockpit. Does it flow, ie can I put it on with a brush or roller? Thanks, John Yow

Speaking of the Glidden paint, I also talked to Graham. My understanding was that it was more for the cockpit of the boat. Since my conversation with him, I have been trying to locate a Glidden store that carries the two part epoxy paint. It is my understanding that Glidden was taken over by ICI Paint Company. I talked to one of their stores that supplies refineries, petrochemical plants and offshore rigs. The salesman recommended a two part product called Devra 224. Has anyone had experience with this one? Thanks, John

Bill, Regarding your plate steel centerboard, did you have any problems with it vibrating since it was the NACA shape? I ask because I have a piece of 1/4" stainless which is just the size of the cs 17 centerboard. I am planning to make the centerboard just as specified in the plans, but am curious about how your steel one worked. Thanks, John

Bill, I appreciate your sharing your experience. In the interim, I talked to Graham who told me that it just would not work. Am I correct in assuming that you did use plywood for your rudder blade? John

Has anyone used 3/4" plywood for their centerboard? I have some left over from another project and there is enough for rudder and center board. It is marine fir, so I plan to glass both. John