Designer

Travis, The wind was in the 15 to 20 range. I expect that you will see speeds like that on a broad reach, Chick has told me that he has seen 10 kts in his boat. Your boat having a heavier disp. to length ratio than the CS17 and having a ballasted keel will be slower to react.

John, The sail track is the slickest way to go but it comes at extra cost. There is the sail track, halyards and extra hardware. I would probably rig my boat that way, and as you live in a windy area it would be nice.

As the forum seems to be a tad slow right now I thought I would share a picture of Bill Heil's boat bursting onto a plane. I took the shot while they were out shooting us at the launching of the CS15. [attachment over 4 years old deleted by admin]

After many years with the same ISP - we have had the opportunity to get on to the fast lane: We are now on high speed wireless broadband. It is amazing - as we never would have gotten DSL here - the phone company refused to run fiber optic lines here - maybe forever???? So, with regrets for the inconvenience here is our new information (which hopefully will be on our site as soon as the host changes in a few days...) This will enable us to serve you better, so please bear with us during the change. Our current address will remain effect for approximately one more month. To the everyone in the office: onboard@bandbyachtdesigns.com To Graham: graham@pinelink.org to Carla: carla@pinelink.org please direct building inquiries to Graham and Business to inquiries to Carla or use the general address! Thank you all!

The snotter position is fixed on the forward side of the mast with an eye strap so that it does not interfere with the sail track. There is some adjustment by raising or lowering the sail with the halyard and using the downhaul for luff tension, which has the same effect on the leech as raising or lowering the snotter.

Travis, Yes your rig is essentially the same.

Hi Gordy, The reefing is really nice. The owner of the CS15 is also the owner of CS20 #1 and I used the same system as on the 20. Reefing was important as he asked for a large rig for good light air performance. It is very easy to use, I start by easing both sheets and then I reef the mizzen first. First the halyard is eased, then the snotter. I pull the sprit out of the clew and poke it into the reefing clew (the sheet is attached to the sprit). Ease the downhaul and move the S-hook to the reefing tack and re-tension the down haul. I pull on the mizzen sheet which brings the boat to a hove-to position makeing it easy to finish reefing, rolling up the foot of the sail and tying off the reef points. I then repeat the procedure for the mainsail. I always rig the mainsail sprit and hardware on the starboard side and the mizzen to port, this makes it easier to reef on a starboard tack which gives you right of way over vessels while you are not properly underway. It is important to have a good reefing system as wind pressure increases by the square of the speed (in other words, doubling wind speed increases the pressure 4 times). In the foto below it can be seen how steadily she lies hove-to while I finish reefing the mainsail. [attachment over 4 years old deleted by admin]

No, we are talking way down east. Harkers Is., Glouster, Straits, Sea level, Marshallberg, etc.

You probably did see her. The owner lives down east.

It uses 3 ply. If you get to choose the wood, try to get even thickness veneers. Some cheaper ply's have a thicker center veneer which runs accross the bends and can make bending more difficult.

Charlie, the fact that I only sailed her twice while she was in my possesion for three weeks will tell you how busy I am.

There are some tight curves in the Birder and your life will be a lot easier if you use Okume. The fact that Meranti is 20% heavier would get my attention with a boat that you carry all the time. If you use Meranti I would recommend using hot water on the tight curves while you are folding the boat.

320#

We have sailed her twice now and had to hand her over to her owner today. Here are a couple of pics of her under sail. [attachment over 4 years old deleted by admin]

It seems to me that the Easypoxy has been effected by uncured amines in the epoxy. Did the paint cure on the stirring stick? I have had problems with Systems Three and one part paints before. You may have to paint the boat with a two part epoxy primer first and then you can use your paint of choice.

Scott, I will be delighted to help out and share your launching with you.

2" of bend for the ply is no problem. You need to laminate the transom frame to maintain the bend at the top. You need to cut a form (the blue lines) with the radius to hold the bottom of the transom true while you fit and fix it to the boat. [attachment over 4 years old deleted by admin]

Yes, I have used plywood for the floorboards/ bunktops, and they work fine, but you may need extra reinforcing. One advantage with the slats is, with gaps between each slat and edges chamfored you get a nice grip for your feet without needing nonskid.

Here are a couple of Core Sound varnished transoms. The floorboards are added if you want to fill in on each side of the centerboard trunk to make a pair of bunks. When sailing they need to be stowed out of the way, so using them as floorboards gives them a permanent home when they are not being slept on. Most people make them out of wood slats about 3" (75mm) wide an 1/2" (12mm) thick screwed down to 4 slats running across the boat. They are made to fit between the CB trunk and the side seating resting on small wooden blocks. When stowed as floorboards, they are held down with wood turn buttons. [attachment over 4 years old deleted by admin]

Scott, You can save yourself the trouble with the test. A hot dipped galvanized screw will last many years in a fresh water lake without epoxy sealing. I have been involved with galvanized fastened boats that are 50 years old and some fasteners are wasted away and some are in fair condition. Typically they have been bleeding rust for most of their life and even if you could refasten them you cannot get all of the bad ones out or stop the bleeding. Often the wood around the fastener has decayed because of the galvanic action. With your boat you may get away with it for as long as you own it but your fasteners are so few and small that the cost savings are small especially if you buy them from someone like Jamestown Distributers. Usually when I have gone cheap on a boat it has cost me many times more than I saved. When I specified those fasteners I spent a lot of time with the Jamestown catalog to find the best balance between strength, type, size, number of bolts and economy. So suck it up when pay for the good fasteners and know that you will never have to mess with them again; it is worth it.

Tim, Gordy's system for the mainsail has two virtues. It is quick to rig and it brings the snotter back to the helmsman, but at the cost of more hardware. The mizzen snotter is already back near the helmsman and therefore you can use the simpler rig with a fork at the forward end of the sprit which the snotter runs through and back along the sprit to a CL211 Clamcleat. There is the extra friction where the snotter runs over the fork but the mizzen is smaller than the main and is not a problem. The only difference between Brents and Gordy's system is the snap shackle and a cheek block mounted on the sprit instead of a standard block tied to the sprit.

For builders who want inexpensive oars and don't want to to take on a major project, here is an idea that I worked out when Tom Lathrop and I competed in in the Sika Challenge boat building contest. We had about 10 minutes to build a pair of oars. While they were rough by yacht standards, they had to function properly because there was a rowing race as part of the competition. Our oars were easily the best and it showed by winning the rowing race. The shafts were made from ripping a 2 x 4 down the middle and 3/8" slots ripped for the 6" wide ply blades. I had the fence settings memorized for the table saw and quickly did the ripping. Some taper was planed with an electric planer and the corners were were rounded with a 1/2" round over bit in the router. Tom was busy cutting out the plywood parts and when the blades were cut, he threw them over to me. I slipped the blades into the slots and drove in 6 ring nails per oar and they were finished. I remember Tom saying to me after we had finished the hull, "we still had to make the oars". I was able to smile and say "they're done". In the pics below John Burritt made an upscale set of the same oars using epoxy and finished them off nicely. [attachment over 4 years old deleted by admin]

Yes Steve, there are three screws through the forward bulkhead/ doubler and into the trunk.

You are mostly right but there exceptions. Where there is lots of glue surface area such as stringers and inwales etc. the load on each fiber is very light. You are better off without fasteners in the above case as they will eventually show through. There are areas of high stress with small glueing areas like the center thwart to the side seats on the CS's that carry the side load from the mizzen mast and would surely fail with glue only. The knees on the catspaws and Spindrifts will fail without mechanical fasteners as they are high stress concentration areas with endgrain glue joints, which are always suspect. On the minipaw keel I would like to see the forward fastener left in. As there is a lot of bend forward, the forward most fibers are doing most of the work and if they fail the stress will move to the next few fibers and so on until it opens up. They often will not fail till months or years down the line. I have seen the glue joint fail on decks forward because the span is very short and the ply has to be bent too much. It is a good idea to flatten out the deck camber forward to cut down on the stress at the glue joint. You just have use your judgement as to whether to fasten or not. If the plans say to use fasteners and they not being used as temporary clamps then it is a good idea to use them. When I build a Spindrift, I fasten the knees, the ends of the gunwales, the ends of the keel, the mast step and one screw through the beam into the centerboard trunk rail, the rest of the boat is held together with just epoxy.

Gary, it is a cute idea but it is more of a compromise than I would accept. You are going to need hardware firmly attached in their appropriate positions, such as tack fitting/ gooseneck, boom vang, 2 sheet positions, outhaul and 2 cheek blocks for your single line reefing.