Jump to content

Designer

Members
  • Posts

    1,750
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    175

Everything posted by Designer

  1. Hi Oyster, Yes I do have the drawings for the Bay River Runner. It depends If your image of the Core Sound boats is the same as mine. I long felt that increased HP had encouraged them to make their transoms too wide and make them less seaworthy. I broached one in a following sea one time and was so annoyed with it that I went home and designed the BRS.
  2. Travis, the standard BRS could not go that fast regardless of how much hp you put on it. The Bay River Runner was modified to make her a pure planing hull. The CS 17 would have to be modified likewise to to run 30 mph and then you would have to give up her good sailing qualities.
  3. Mike, I searched high and low for a pic of the BRS17 with a well and no luck. However I found one of the late Nelson Silva in his modified BRS 15. We called her the Bay River Runner, he got about 30 mph with a 20-25 hp outboard. He liked her so much that he made a mold and produced them in glass. We were also working together on an improved and enlarged version of a Simmons Sea Skiff, when he passed away. [attachment over 4 years old deleted by admin]
  4. Scott, your bottom panels look nice and fair.
  5. No Belhavens have been finished yet. Scott has cut his hull panels and should be folding it up soon. I believe he will post some pics. as soon as he has something to show us.
  6. Jim, your boat looks great, I really like your graphics and the yellow hull on deck will make you a lot more visible at sea. I agonised a lot on setting the bulkhead/ seat height/ rowing comfort/ getting a wet butt from water slopping over the trunk/ bulkheads when heavily loaded. If you think that it could be lowered without effecting it I will adjust the plans. As you have already built the boat, I have had good success with raising the oarlocks with a length of tight fitting hose slid up the oarlock shaft. obviously there is a limit to how high you can raise them but if you are not comfortable when rowing, another 1/2 - 3/4 inch will help. On the trunk height discrepancy. After looking at your photo I see that you put the top of the trunk cap below the center seat. On the plan I put the top of the trunk cap flush with the top of the seat to further avoid the above mentioned wet butt problem. The vertical height of the bulkhead at the centerline is 10 3/4" and the height of the trunk to the seat notch is 10 5/8". The 1/8" difference is for the trunk offset rising up the deadrise. I was interested in your fore & aft seating comment. I use it on the Catspaw dinghys but felt with the extra fore & stability of the Spindrift it wasn't worth the extra complication. I will see what I can come up with. Thanks for your input, if we all work together we can have even better boats.
  7. You are on the right track Ray. Rocker is more advantageous for boats operating at the lower end of the speed spectrum - rowing and sailing. Rocker makes climbing up onto the plane harder. The ideal planing shape, would be "dead flat" - and to that end when we design true planing hulls, the aft sections are aimed at that. Of course, that means they are inefficient at low speeds - and don't row or sail well. And as you so rightly pointed out, when a boat has to do "everything" you have to try to balance - and (oh boy here is that word again) compromise. With the Spindrift, she has a flatter run aft than most boats of her ilk, which improves her top end speed. Fortunately she is small enough that in low speed sailing, we can trim her down by the bow slightly and heel it to leeward slightly, which eliminates the transom drag, cuts down wetted surface area and gives it more apparant rocker. Which leds us to Greg's question.... Personally I've never had a motor on a 12, so I've had no real life experience on her performance under power. I'm reluctant to give hard and fast numbers because, when you are operating with this type of boat, in that grey zone of beginning to plane there are many variables. The most primary would be the engine itself. To say, generically, that "4HP = X knots" is not responsible. Unfortunately for us consumers "A HP ain't necessarily a HP".... at least i in terms of ratings. Practical Sailor magazine did a test using a single boat and useing different engines of the same "stated" (note not "rated") horsepower - and there were substantial differences in the range from fastest to slowest. So you would need to research "output horsepower" on any given models you were interested in. The second factor is of course, weight, in a small boat like this, the addition of an extra person will reduce or negate the the ability to plane. As a design, I think the Spindrifts cover as wide a range of performance as is possible. There doesn't seem to be another boat out there at this time that can touch her in all round performance. The objective of top end speed under power was never a consideration in the design. We only wanted a boat that would motor well as a tender - moving along briskly with a load and using a minimum of horsepower to do so. To my mind, when using the boat as a tender, the ability to use the smallest, lightest motor (for hauling on board, lifting and stowing) and still get respectable performance is a premium point. It was never about "ultimate" speed, just relative speed. I guess I've just muddied the waters again :roll:
  8. I have never seen a Bay River Skiff 17 myself. After the success of the BRS 15 I started drawing the BRS 17 and didn't finish it as I was working on the CS17 at the time. Sometime later someone insisted that they had to have a BRS17, and feeling guilty about a half done job I put in the extra time and finished the plan for him. I have sold a few since then but have gotten no feedback from the builders. A couple of local fisherman built one each for power only. As they had no intention to sail them I modified the bottom giving them a flat run and the outboard sat in a well so that they could work their nets without fouling the prop. I very rarely just scale a boat up, but this was one instance where I did. Knowing the 15, I had no doubts it would be a good boat. I realized it could take a little extra freeboard and beam in the larger size.
  9. I would forget about 10 knots+ in a Spindrift 10. I have timed my S10 at 6 knots over a measured mile with a 2hp Suzuki with me alone in the boat, which is a speed length ratio 2 (6 kts./sq. root of 9' wl. = 2) which is generally accepted as the beginning of planing. 10 kts. is a speed length of 3.3 which is much too fast for the rocker in the bottom. I once tried one with a 5hp motor, although I had no way to measure speed at the time I believe that it was nowhere near 10 kts, and it made a lot of wake and the motor made a lot of noise.
  10. I don't see any reason why you couldn't re rig a Lightning. As long as she has little value as a class boat and no longer competitive go for it.
  11. I have been asked this question many times and have thought about it a lot myself. Unless you have the need for the larger boat you would be better off with the 17. The 17 is a good sized boat, she will sail very nicely with 4 adults without getting in each others way. When Bill Heil launched his boat last month the 4 of us had a perfectly delightful sail in her. The smaller boat will always be a bit easier to launch in a cross wind and the masts are lighter and easier to step. Not that the 20 is difficult to launch and rig. I am always amazed at how quickly I settle in to the size of the 20 and her length and power sure felt good in the choppy conditions of the Great race. So you see I am probably not objective when it comes to my boats. Some of my favourite sails were solo in my Bay River Skiff. I launched her many times after dinner in hot summer weather, if it was much bigger I probably wouldn't have bothered.
  12. Tim, the rudder as designed is fine - large even....There is absolutely no reason to make it any bigger. Most rudders could be smaller, but once in a while the extra area is needed in exceptional conditions, so you have a built in "safety-factor". You might notice racing boat rudder are long and skinny - but obviously, we did not want a "deep" rudder. Hence the relatively elliptical blade with a rather low aspect ratio - (squashed). As for Ketchup, she sailed the race with the rudder as originally built. The rudder wasn't far off spec - so it was only in heavy winds that it became apparent that it needed to be rotated forward. We are talking degrees here - it wasn't gut wrenching helm at all. I happen to be very fussy about the feel of a boat's helm - I want everyone to have the joy of good handling. Believe me, there are many boats out there with much much worse.... The type of tiller extension swivel used is on two axis, so it moves wherever you want it.
  13. I would stay with the .065" wall thickness. The S11 mast has a smaller factor of safety than the S10 because of availability of standard sections.
  14. The helm on the Core Sound boats has always been light, providing the blade is properly oriented in the cheeks. I have added a new dimension to the plan because it was a little too subtle for every builder to pick up. It became really apparent to me while sailing Ketchup in a strong breeze, the helm was much too heavy. After checking the rudder I saw that it was not able to go all the way down. I want to take this opportunity to explain the difference between weather helm and heavy helm. Weather helm is simply the angle that the tiller is to windward of the center line while sailing. Heavy helm is a function of the rudder design in relation to the pintles. A heavy helm is just hard to move, and can pull hard on you at every angle. It is possible to have a lot of weather helm, and still have a light helm. Conversely, an overbalanced rudder is terrible because it won't come back to center - it always wants to dive to one side or the other. It is desirable to have some weather helm. The reasons are: In a hard puff it helps you to come up into the wind and feather, a desirable safety feature. It gives you lift to windward; it allows you to have a "groove" and keep a moderate pressure on the tiller (often referred to as "feel"). It also keeps you close to the wind and not footing off to leeward accidently. The ideal is to have the tiller at a two to four degree angle to windward when sailing on the wind. When making the rudder, put the pivot hole in the blade as shown. Ignore the position for the pivot in the cheeks. Lay the blade on one cheek. Position it so that it is oriented as shown below (pic). The forward rudder "corner" point which sits just below the cheek should be carfully aligned up against the bottom of the cheek. Lay a straight edge down from the forward edge of the cheek. The dimension of the rudder blade forward of the projected line should be; CS17 7/8" and for the CS20 1 1/8". When you have established this position, drill the cheek through the rudder pivot hole. Glue up the cheeks and when dry, drill through both cheeks. [attachment over 4 years old deleted by admin]
  15. I have not used 3M 4000 but I think it would be good. We usually use 3M 101 which is a polysulphide, it is not a true adhesive like 3M 5200 (polyurethane)so you can get the hardware off again if you need to. Another small advantage is that 101 does not go off in the tube as quick as the polyurethanes. We like to use silicone on the centerboard pivot plate so that it will be easy to remove.
  16. Styge, I presume you are talking about the snotter attachment to the mast. The simplest method is a rolling hitch around the mast, as you plan to use a track you need an eye on the forward side of the mast. We usually rivet a Harken 073 eye strap to the mast. As you are a skilled aluminum welder why not weld on an eye? Look up Gordy Hill's post on his snotter and convert it to aluminum.
  17. I just received a cell phone call from Charlie to tell me that he weathered the storm just fine, although he has some good war stories. His electricity is down and should be out for 2-3 days and he asked me to let you all know that he and the boats are fine.
  18. Hang on Charlie! We are thinking of you. We have been watching Mike Tobin with Fox who is at Port La Vaca, so we are sharing the experience with you! :shock:
  19. I agree with what Frank said. Our 23 year old Catspaw was never glassed and I enjoy its lighter weight every time I carry her. It was well coated in epoxy and was refinished a few years ago.
  20. Unfortunately HMike2000 you never asked us for a "few" pictures. The study plans and CD for which we charge has OVER 100 pictures plus a goodly selection of pages from the plan. The CD is a companion for the building plans, so you're only "out of pocket" for the study comes to about $5.00. Which just about pays for us to send it to you. However, if a person e-mails us that he/she is interested in a specific model or wants a specific view of some point we are more than happy to e-mail a few pictures to clarify any questions they may have. Moreover, you are more than welcome to stop by here, where you can see Spindrifts, sail Spindrifts and meet Spindrift owners to your hearts content. Generally if you live along either coast, we can direct you to an owner who will show you his/her boat. We are absolutely not paranoid. If someone thinks that they can do their "own thing" from the photos they are welcome to try. In the study plan sheets we also send a lot of information - so they can try to do it from that too. The Spindrift has been professionaly designed, has been refined over many years and has over 440 boats out there...and it would cost a lot more than $50.00 to duplicate that kind of depth knowledge and experience. I guess in this day and age, there is a general feeling that itellectual property has no real value - music is copied with no thought of compensating the people who wrote, produced, performed and marketed it. I am not an amateur designer who is just so delighted to have my designed being seen out there that I am willing to pay people (or spend my money to send out "free" samples). I have to pay my bills too and this is what we do for a living - nothing else. I'll bend over backwards to help a person decide what boat to build...to refer them, to give them information within reason. If there is an expense to me to get that information to them I think I am being quite reasonable in requesting that they pick up the tab. I don't think you will find any designer willing to send you over 100 pictures of a given model for FREE unless he is an amateur with only 1 or 2 designs. We have many, many models and could not possibly put it ALL on our web site for each one.
  21. We used to have (a relatively local) B&B mess-about day every year. The place we had it belonged to a friend who has moved away and we found ourselves without such a great site. HOWEVER....it just so happens, that we had been thinking it would be really nice to have a larger B&B group from further afield. And so....we have been developing some property we own on the river. I've just put in a road; and a ramp and dock are next on our list. We are getting some open areas and clearing around the water. We'll have plenty of room for camping - on your boat or ashore. It could be fun to combine it with the great race perhaps. Being able to come back to our site after the race day and sit around and tell er, tall tales - camp out and spend a few days swapping boats and building stories. I think it would also be fun to look at having some other venues around the country...as not everyone on the west coast is going to be able to trek over here and vice-a-versa. Well it's just ideas now, but put your thinking caps on and let's see what we can come up with.
  22. Hey Styge, She looks great. Congratulations, you did a really nice job. And a major congratulations on the October delivery from Ms Stork! Nice job on that too. Re Paint: Getting paint to stay on aluminum is tricky stuff. Is that what Sterling recommends for aluminum? For example, Awlgrip recommends to: first grind, then use Awl-Prep Plus, then Alumiprep 33 wash followed by an Alodine 1201 acid wash, then a mil-spec anti-corrosive epoxy primer and then topcoat/paint system.
  23. Saturday, July 5th was the 8th running of the Great Race. Due to the difficulty of getting a set of chase boats for two whole days, the race was a one day affair this year. The course was about 18/19 miles, less than our traditional two-day sail, but still a pretty good day's work for small open boats. The race left from Beaufort (NC) and went easterly into Core Sound - around Harkers Is. up to Marshallberg and back. The winds built up to about 20K southwesterly giving the boats a good run up to the mark off Marshallberg and a hard beat back against the strong winds and the current. I'm pleased to say that "Ketchup", the CS 20 recently introduced to this forum for her launchings (unofficial and official), won line honors and class. This makes it 8 years in a row for B&B boats to have won this event.
  24. Hi Charlie, I had a similar problem with posting pictures. It seems if the aspect ratio is larger than 800 X 600 pixels it won't accept it. It tells you that - but you have to go all the way back up to the top to find out why it is rejecting you! I suggest that you go to your photo editing program and scale the pics down - below 800 X 600. That may be technically untrue, but is MY finding - Fraaaank!!!!
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.