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I would like to offer to Mike and the forum a public apology. I've also PM Frank and apologized for my post. Sorry to muddy the waters with my frustration. Chad

Found the eye nut and threaded rod locally. The eye nut would be forged steel and the threaded rod would be zinc plated. Any problems there? Chad

The longest that they have in 3/8" is 6" and that is probably measured from the top to the bottom. I need a 3/8" with a shank of 9". I went and measured where the eyebolt goes and I need at least 9" to get through everything. I've thought about upgrading to 1/2", but I worry if that is going to leave enough meat. The keel is 2-1/4" and by the time you drill 1/2" that leaves 1-3/4" which in a perfect world would leave you 7/8" on each side of the hole. Chad edited to add: I didn't see the eye nut the first time. That might work. I'll see if I can get that locally.

Okay, where did you guys find the 3/8" x 9" eyebolt needed at the bowsprit? Chad

I heard from Mike Stevensons on this late yesterday. His "get away with" comment has pretty much convinced me that I probably need to double it up. Chad

The plans call for the cabin beams to be 1-1/2 thick made from clear Fir, Mahogany, or spruce. Now I asked this question over at WBF and thought I had the answer, but now I'm second guessing myself. I will be using 4/4 white oak for the beams. I had decided to laminate up two pieces to closer to 1-1/2 as called for on the plans, but do you think that maybe the cabin beams are overdesigned and that maybe 4/4 white oak would be strong enough without going double thickness? Chad

Thanks for the input guys. and nice sketch BTW. Chad

Slowly but surely I'm getting work done on the weekender. Started looking at doing the cabin sides the other day and had a question. Now I'm going off memory here, so if I make a mistake please forgive me. The front piece of the cabin reads like this: station 0 = 8" station 1 = 8" station 2 = 8-1/2" station 3 = 8" station 4 = 8" There is 12" between stations. The drawing shows a curve between station 0 & 1 and 3 & 4. but doesn't give you an offset between the stations so you know how far down this curve is. I didn't see the answer in the video or the plans. I'm I missing something? Chad

Dave. the back of the seat will still be in the same place as was designed. I will also be adding a center support beneth the seats to provide support. Chad

Thanks Barry. That is what I thought. Chad

Okay, I'm doing slat open seats as opposed to the box seats shown on the plans. Anyone here done something similar? Here is an image of what I plan on doing. Chad

Is the mast overall height of 15'-1" from the bottom of the tabernacle or from the top? I think it is from the bottom. I'll start my taper about a foot or so above the tabernacle. Chad

Was looking at the plans yesterday and was thinking about starting on the mast. The mast is listed as 15'-1" with the taper starting up at 30". The mast is to be cut at 47" for the tabernacle. Is this correct, that the tabernacle happens in the tapered part of the mast? Chad

John, I know I've gone back and forth on whether I can attend, you know being in a new battery and worrying about Annual Training. It is looking possible. I will call you if and when I figure out my schedule. Chad

I was considering the Stevensons sails and for $500 that isn't too bad. I looked at the sailrite kit and for $400 and still having to put it together the Stevesons sails still look better price wise. The poly sails look like a good comprimsie. At first I only wanted dacron sails, but now I'm thinking about building a melonseed after the weekender and I would just like to get the weekender in the water. I was hoping somone here might have a line on maybe some used sails made out of dacron. Chad

Finally got back to working on the weekender. The back is better, the weather is better so it is time to start working. Wanting to check here and see if anyone has a line on some sails. I thought I had a line on some, but someone else took the boat, lock stock and barrel. So now I'm looking. I'm not going to use a tarp or tyvek, so lets not go there. I might consider using the poly sail as found here. http://members.aol.com/polysail/HTML/ Any leads would be appreciated it. Chad

Although not as impressive as you guys, I will post my model of the Friendship I just finished. My hands aren't made for working in that small of scale, but I did the best I could. Chad

Frank, my best wishes to you and your wife. I will keep you two in my prayers. Chad

Yeah Tim that was me over at WB that started that post. When I talked to the guy on the phone he didn't come out and say it was a weekender, but the description sure did fit. Chad

I contacted them last week about that one. It is a flat bottomed full keel with a swing keel boat. It has a small cabin that when you lay in it your feet protuded into the cockpit. Sounded like an early weekender and I'm already building one of those. Chad

Thanks for checking for me. Hopefully she will go to a good home. Chad

Hey Ken I hear that you live in Rhoade Island. Is this true? If so look at this post for me and see if you can help. From the Friendship site: 215 ELLEN ANNE RI 22' Passamaquoddy Yachts 1968 Owner 410-725-5640 I don't know how close this is to you or if you could get some photos, but any help would be appreciated. Thanks Chad

Thanks Mike. The question had come up at the Wooden Boat forum about the loss of strength from a 2-1/2 square to a 2-1/2" round and you have answered that question. Chad

How thick did you make your rub rail and did you have problems making the bend? Chad

It appears that most of you have let the sides of the weekender run up past the deck. The plans probably say this, but I'm bad about not reading them anyway. In my case I have cut the sides flush with the deck and will attech the rub rail there. Any issues I'm missing? Chad