russell

My progress has been slow, not because I haven't been working on this but sometimes little challenges take longer to figure out how to accomplish than it seems, especially when one is working alone.Thought I'd add a couple of pic's. These old hand planes were my Dad's and may have belonged to my great grandpa who came over from Germany in the early 1900's. I tried them all plus some old hand saws, the wooden planes are a bit of a challenge to set up but work well if the bladed are sharp. The old Jack plane (I think that what it's called works the best, it is Sargent made sometime between 1900 and 1913 I think). I added a picture of my idea how to put the twist on the chine batten using clamp with a pvc pipe lodged against the jig. This was a challenge for me on Marissa and the same here. You have to watch out for the batten slipping out of the frames and bulkheads and smacking you in the kisser! I know! I hope this idea will help someone else along the way.

I noticed the old 50's craftsman table saw, My Dad gave me one of those years ago and I wore it out many years later. Great saw.

Thanks, folks for the encouragement, I began fairing the keel and stringers today, while I agree using a power planer helps, I found using one of my Dad's old hand planes may be easier to handle for a lot of it. the hard part is working from a step stool/ladder. The Keel is about 60" above the floor, great for getting under but good for old muscles! I am about 6' 2" tall.

Trying up load pictures The last picture was taken this morning, just need to fair and add the chine and away we go! [

Thought I'd bring everyone up to date on my latest project. I launched My Marissa last year and needed another challenge. Graham sent me the Outer Banks 24 #2. I have been following Myot's work and have been hesitant to show what progress I have made so far. I don't think my work looks as good as his but I have been learning much from his and other of you over the last year. Thanks all for your posts, it'd like going to boat builders school! I have to figure out how to attach pictures again!

My wife and I went last year, it was great! Wish we could do it again this year. The entire show is worth the trip. What a huge effort Graham and family put forth to make the boat building fun for the folk. Maybe next year.

Thanks so much for the info. I am going order the air powered gun, When I'm done with it (Maybe a year away) I may sell it on e-bay. Your craftsmanship has inspired me! I have been using a mini nipper to cut off the brads when they show through, from there the sander cleans very easily. Did your plan call for two layers of 6mm? Mine calls for two layers of 4mm, much easier to bend.

What other forum are you talking about? Thanks

I haven't made up my mind about which stapler to buy, the air gun is very expensive but I would consider it if I will be able to use it on the sides as well as the bottom. Some of the other folk I have read on another site use only brads to build cold molded boats. I'm waiting to hear from you how the side planking goes.

I've been following you build since the beginning, you've done a great job so far. I'm in the first stages of building OB 24 #2, I entered your site some time ago discussing the use of Raptor brads and staples, I am using their brads as they fit my PC gun, I have purchased staples and I am wondering now after you have been using the hand stapler, if you had it to do again, would you purchase the air stapler from Raptor? Keep up the great work.

I am still working with Yamaha to find a prop that will get the maximum for my 40 hp Yamaha. The current prop is a 11 5/8 x 11 can get no more than 5600 rpm. which equals about 25 knots. Yamaha is planning to send a rep. to help solve this and another issue of vibration at idle speed. I'll keep you posted. As to you question regarding seating- I think four adults is the maximum for any comfort on this boat, there is very little room behind the bench seat on my boat for another seat, room enough for moving around comfortably but not enough for another seat. The bow area where the "casting platform/anchor locker" is a good seating spot, there is plenty of space for anchor line forward of that.

Thanks for news on the staples,do you think the air stapler would make it easier? What length staples are you useing?

I think Raptor owes me a dividend after the publicity I gave them on this site! I tried the brads they sent as a sample, used my Porter Cable gun @ 90#, worked fine. Now I must figure out what length I would use most? They are a bit pricy to order a selection of sizes.

Great pictures, I needed them! I just received my plans for the OB 24. Please continue with the pictures and comments, it will be a great help to me. It looks like you used spruce for the side stingers, I used the same on my Marissa after I found yellow pine just didn't want to do the "twist". The more pictures the better! Thanks, you build looks great.

I contacted Raptor, they are sending a sample of brads and staples, I will do some testing even though it will be some time before I will actually get to that point of construction. Have you tried the screws for Krag jig? I used them on my Marissa build, tho pull together most all joints, I was able to remove them easily and reuse many times before rounding out some of the square drive holes.

Thank you very much for the insight. I considering trying the Raptor staples and or brads for attaching the cold mold process instead of screws and washers. The staples and brads/nails are plastic and can remain in the boat and be sanded. They are a little expensive but would be much faster. I have been reading about them on the Glen-L website. Does anybody out there know anything pro or con? Looking forward to your pictures of the process. My plans should be here this week. Can't wait to get started.

I was wondering why all the extra verticle stiffners? When I built my Marissa I found the glue fillets and the " egg crate" design to be very stable, seems to me that once the hull is complete there would be little or no stress in these areas. Next question, why did you wait to cut the stringer notches untill now? I getting ready to start on the all new OB 24. Just waiting for the plan to arrive. I've been following your build since your start, looks really good, I'm looking forward to see how the planking goes on your boat, I've never done a cold mold boat so I am wanting to see how you do it.

I planning to arrive sometime Friday afternoon with my marissa in tow, I'd like to park her at the shop if possible, we will be staying in Oriental wher there is not much space to park. Looking forward to the weekend. Russell

I did not work full time, there was several months I was not able to work much due to my 93 year old Dad passing away. I usually spent 3-4 hours a day actual working and many hours studying the plans and pictures. My pinion regarding kits--- I wanted the full experience of building this boat, I am a beginner with some woodworking skills.I have named the boat "IDIDIT". Thanks to Graham's good plans and pictures IDid It! As Geaham told me at the beginning---"It's a hundred mile journey, take it one mile at a time" Great advice, I remember counting every mile and enjoying the trip.

I have not been able to find any pricing for this GPS? Tell me more if it's still for sale. Thanks Russell

Side note, This boat will be operated mostly in the Ga intercoastal waters around Darien where we have a place. Are you building your boat in St.Marys?

Regarding the prop, I'm sorry I can't remember the size, I called the dealer, he also couldn't remember the size either. As I said we cahnged several times, and the last test we ordered a Merc prop but never used it as although they said it would work, the fit to the shaft was not desireable. The only way I can get you the size is by once again removing the prop as the numbers are on the inside. What I did find was that size of prop,trim,and weight of the boat is very important for best performance. The goal was to reach max. RPM (6000) +/- 100 rpm at max throttle. One thing I don't know is how much if any the performance might change as the motor get "broken in" I just barely have 10 hrs on the motor, with little time at WOT. Max speed at WOT is really not the goal, rather low planning speed and good handling give max comfort and good fuel usage. This boat has both.

Yes, the stem and where ever I could use it. I found hard to bend with a twist.

I chose the 40 four stroke over the 50 because the 40 is a 3 cyl vs 50 is 4 cyl. Very litle performance diference but large fuel usage difference. Check chart on Yamaha web site. I'll check the prop and let you know.

I used good old carbon paper (from Glen-L) comes in large sheet and very cheap.( Note. I used a round pattern marking wheel on the mylar because it makes a much better mark on the plywood than the pointed wheel). Graham furnished the plywood cutout layout with the plans. Very helpful and almost no waste. The gas tank is Moeller FT 1844 18 gal tank as spec'd in plan had to special order. I got the seat from a Carolina Skiff Dealer. It was new, sold as used as it was a take out from a new boat that the customer wanted a leaning post in his boat. Great seat as we can put a large cooler under it and the seat top opens with gas struts to be able to use the cooler. I forgot what prop we ended up with, the dealer was very helpful trying several props to try to get the best performance. Thanks for all the nice comments from you all.