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Posted

since the taper changes the bevel on the stem (of a Princess 22 at least) you cannot cut the bevel easily using a band saw. You COULD make a saw table where you could vary the bevel as you were cutting, but that's not really practical for just one piece. Here's another way to cut that winding bevel. I'm posting a series of pictures showing how I did it. This is only one way, but the oveer all time was about 2 hours doing it like this.

Here's the stem with one side finished, ready to finish the other. The bevel has been cut, using a band saw , to the angle of the small end. You can just see the line at the large end showing the bevel angle at the large end.

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Posted

Then I used a narrow chisel to dub off the excess wood between the cuts, being careful to not split off the bottom edge.

By the way- if you locate the trash can just right, all the chips fall right in :D

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Posted

Then I used a wider chisel to pare off the rough parts left from the previous step, again being careful to not splinter off the bottom edge.

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Posted

After the complete side is smoothed with the chisels, then I finish with the planes- first the block plane, then a smoothing plane.

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Posted

Here's the completed stem, ready to be offered up to the boat. It isn't completely smoothed since the plans indicate it will need some trimming to make it fit.

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Posted

Great sequence, Charlie. I'm following along on my P22 plans as you proceed, so keep up with the photos and narrative! What wood are you using for the stem, stem knee, and keel batten? Joel Page

Posted

Joel- the stem and stem knee is very clear piece of yellow pine. I looked through the stacks till I found what I wanted.

The keelson is D grade, select Fir. All other cleating and stringering will also be fir. Trim wood most likely will be mahogany, although on my own boats I like Ash rather than Mahogany.

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