Long Shot: Will the real lower coaming please stand up?

[jerryg]

Hi everyone,

Page 2 of the Long Shot plans show a template for a lower coaming. Page 3 shows the template for both the upper and also another lower coaming, which shows a number of drill points. I want to build a laminated coaming, and I am guessing to use the template on page 2 to build the form? Would this be correct?

In terms of building the upper coaming, my manual suggests ripping hardwood strips which are about 3/8" in height. Given that the strips are only a 3/32" or so in thickness, and given how wide the upper coaming has to be, this seems like it would be a lot of work to get everything to work out properly. Does anyone have any experience doing this, and any tricks to share?

Thanks.

[Kudzu]

First, if you have not, watch the videos I made.

http://kudzucraft.ku...deo/coaming.php

Now, use to INSIDE of any of the coamings to cut you form(s) from. That way the opening is the same size.

As for the lip, it doesn't have to be very large. I make mine around 1/4" to 3/8" width is plenty. You just need enough to hold the skirt in place.

Here is a couple of tips on wood. Obviously straight grain bends better. I have found maple works well if you heat it with a heat gun as you bend. I tried cherry for a client and gave up. It was a total failure!

I recently tried basswood and I can cut it thicker and it bends beautifully! Now it has very little rot resistance so I will have to be careful to seal it to keep any moisture out. I will have to make sure to keep the finish in good shape too. I am about to build a new one and I am going to paint this one. So I am thinking of starting with a couple of thin coats to soak in wood. Then apply 2-3 coats of the final unthinned paint.

Oh yea, when you make you form, I have found it is a good idea to make as thick or almost as thick as you the coaming height. Otherwise you end up with some bowing on the wood and then you have gaps to fill.

[jerryg]

Hi Jeff,

Thanks. I have watched all the videos again. I'm pretty sure I understand. The lip just gets laminated on top edge of the lower coaming as a couple of extra strips. That makes sense. I was thinking I would have to build a completely separate piece. Your way makes lots more sense.

I even think I know where I can get some real nice maple and a pretty good price.

Thanks again.

[SBknox]

Hello Jerry,

Be sure to get the first wrap onto the form nice and tight. My first attempt wasn't tight enough and it didn't do well at all, left too many gaps. Started over with special attention to getting it very tight to the form and it worked

much better. I tapered the starting lap with a block plane to make a smooth transition and it worked well. I also found that double clamping the laps on the top and bottom removed almost all of the gaps I was getting on the first attempt. I just set my form on top of a few paint cans. Also be sure to keep the top edge of each lap as even as possible so you won't loose to much of the 1 1/2" total height during clean up. This one is made out of ash and finished out at 7/16"x 1 3/16" with the skirt lip at 7/16"x7/16". It seems to be

very stout.

Steve

[Kudzu]

I forgot to mentions, lots of clamps! Especially if you use maple. The basswood bends easy and I just use spring clamps except at the joints. With maple I use every clamp I have and a lot of f-clamps because I need the pressure.

[Hirilonde]

Maple would be quite strong, but at the expense of how much weight?

F-clamp? By that do you mean what I would call a bar clamp?

[Kudzu]

The laminated coaming weights very little, not enough weight difference to matter. Never weighted one but I bet the maple is lighter than the plywood coamings.

This is what I meant with F-clamp.

[jerryg]

This one is made out of ash and finished out at 7/16"x 1 3/16" with the skirt lip at 7/16"x7/16".

Steve

Hi Steve,

Thanks for info. Was there suppose to be a picture attached.

When you say the top lip is 7/16" I'm assuming that is in addition to the 7/16" of the lower coaming, so that the total width measured across the top of the coaming would be around 14/16"?

[SBknox]

Jerry,

I tried to attach the pictures but didn't have any luck. Instruction would be welcome!

Steve

[SBknox]

Jerry,

Yes, the top lip is glued onto the main 7/16"x1 3/16" body. This was pretty quick with the coaming off the form. The total width at the top was 7/8".

I'm attempting to add the pictures, not sure if its loading or not.

Steve

[Hirilonde]

You don't need to use the free on line photo hosting pages any more. With the new features Frank has added to this forum with the last update he is actually hosting your photos on line. Here are pictures I just took of my coaming mold.

1. Scroll down below the latest post in a thread and click on the button "more reply options"

2. Under "attach files" find and click the button "browse"

3. From there find the path to your pictures stored on you computer

4. "Open" the file (photo) and "attach"

5. Then go to the right of the photo files and click "add to post" This puts the file of the photo as text into the body of your reply.

6. From here you can add text to the reply and cut and paste your text and the photo files into what ever arrangement you like.

[woodman]

That is a nice form..basicly the same way I did mine with some scrap ply. and particleboard..