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Posted

What kind of clearance is best for removeable parts like the seats on the nesting spindrifts.

If each piece is going to get 3 coats of epoxy plus several coats of varnish and or paint you donn't want them to fit too tight.

I was thinking that a piece of 80 grit sandpaper would be a good thickness test.

So how may layers of 80 grit paper should fit in a joint so you know you have enough clearance?

I'll bet you guys who have  built multiple boats know exactly how much room to give it.


Posted

I never build tolerances anywhere near that tight.

On the removable seats I dare say I have a minimum of 1/8 inch either side port and starboard between hull and seats.  I can't imagine ever wanting the tolerances any closer than that.

That makes sense.

I'll bet you loose at least 1/16 inch plus with all those coats of stuff.

Posted

I'm pretty sure Ray is suggesting 1/8" all around clearance, after finishing. Not only do wooden parts change dimensions with moisture content (isn't that what epoxy is supposed to prevent), but more importantly, the boat moves. Things wrack, twist and distort depending on loading, sea state, crew positions, etc. There's a surprising amount of movement going on. Just pay attention the next time out in a quite stretch of water. Most boats "talk" to you. Frames squeak, planks groan, rigging sings, fasteners add their lovely melodies, as they attempt to dislodge themselves from whatever their buried in. These are normal sounds and a sure indication of all sorts of movement.

Taped seam boats and fully encapsulated craft talk less, but they still have a voice. When I was living aboard, I could tell how fast the boat was moving, the likely point of sail and the trim of the boat all from my bunk, just by the sounds she made underway. In fact, an unusual creak or groan could wake me from a dead sleep.

In other words a well fitting cabinet door with an 1/8" gap all around (ashore) may not open well, if at all under certain sailing conditions. Don't be shy, leave plenty of room.

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