cabin hatch and door

[merrimange]

I am having a heck of a time with getting this hatch and things to look right and work. I messed up and threw away the original cut to be later used for the door or slats thereon. I can't for the life of me get a round cut worth a lick. Maybe it's my technique.

So, I've done lots of searches on this but really would like some input on the best way to accomplish a round hatch and door opening which is weatherproof. I'm not the sharpest tack with carpentry but got this new Ryobi Works kit and I'm the king of my garage now.

On subject - The plans look inadequate. Thanks for the input. I'm sailing by spring time!

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[Russ Sylvester]

One thought is to use cardboard to form up the piece first then transfer it to wood. That way you can use scissors or a utility knife to carve at it and fine tune. A whole lot less expensive and easier to work with.

[Dave R1]

Russ's idea of using cardboard to make a template is good. I would use 1/2" MDF because it is easily shaped and once you get it fitted it makes a good template to guide a router on.

You don't even need to use large pieces of MDF. You could a piece about 6" wide to work out the shape of the bottom of the companionway opening and then a couple of straight pieces for the sides. Stick them to the rough-cut plywood with double-sided carpet tape. (Don't use too much tape of you'll never get the template pieces off the plywood.) Run a pattern trimming router bit around your template and you're gold.

As to the top arc of the drop board, bend a long batten over the cabin roof and clamp it in place. Then trace the arc onto the template material and cut to shape.

[Florin {VACATIONER}]

We saved the piece which was cut out of the companionway opening. Then we cut it in two (at an angle to keep the weather out) and finished it. Didn't need any templates.

For the curve on the sliding hatch We used a slim batten which was held on top on the cabin at the aft end to extend the curve across the opening. Then we took the measurements and lofted the hatch frame on a piece of fir. Pretty easy.

Cheers

[Frank Hagan]

One thing that might help is to remember that you aren't after a perfect fit betweeen the companionway boards (or door) and the sliding hatch on top. You just need to have the hatch on top slide over the top of the companionway board without too much of a gap so rain can't get in.

My companionway board is flat on top, and my sliding hatch slides back far enough to form a good overhang.

[merrimange]

Thanks for the feedback. That will help. It just seems awkward. Maybe I'm overanalyzing. I appreciate it!

[Mike Henderson (Oregon)]

I like the cardboard idea. I kept my cut out for the hatch so didn't have the same problem.

I did do something a little differnt where the sliding hatch meets the dropping thingy. I used the board I cut the curved bit for the rear of the sliding hatch and mounted it on top of the dropping hatch so there would be a closer fit.

[Jim Stumpf]

Keep in mind that your boat will flex when trailered and sailed, a perfectly fitted hatch and boards will bind. Here is one place a little slop is a good thing.

Jim

Vacationer

RUDUNYET

[Guest]

What ever happened about the removable cabin? I never saw any reply to the posting on the convertible top thread? :?

[merrimange]

oyster - still want to do it, nothing is glued only screwed in a few places for the moment and I felt I'd adapt when I understood exactly what to do asn saw the finished product. But, needed to keep the momentum, thus the use of the existing plans. I think you were in stage 3 and weren't finished, right?

[merrimange]

First of all - this group is as good as it gets for gathering info, so everyone reach with the right hand to the left shoulder and pat. Your suggestions worked. I'm a CPA not a carpenter but I'm having so much fun learning this stuff. So thank you.

Second, i'm beginning to learn the fiberglass cloth and resin stage. My first experiment the hatch top, worked pretty good. My question, how do I control the air bubbles on edges and other parts which are dynamic and not flat. Do you buy tape, just use resin? Thanks!

[Frank Hagan]

Cloth will only take so much bending ... and the heavier the cloth, the less it bends. Its hard to make it bend around a 90 degree corner without puckering out.

If the final piece is to be painted, you can simply take a surform plane (like a rasp on steroids) and attack the bubble after its cured almost-hard. Then sand the edges of what's left of the bubble, and fill with thickened epoxy.

If you have to glass an edge of a board, you can sometimes get light fiberglass cloth to go over one of the edge, then trim it off flush with the other edge. Then, go over that unprotected edge from the other side ... giving the edge a double layer of thin glass.