pr8head Posted August 18, 2004 Posted August 18, 2004 HI All, Has anyone here ever used MDO on the hull skin? It seems to me it would be an awesome material for it. I have read about using it but would rather have first hand info. I have used it before when I worked at a sign shop and it is VERY weather resistant I know. I have repainted 10 year old boards that were not delaminating at all. I would think that it would be better to use one faced than to scrap the heck out of the inside. It wouldn't check and would paint easy. Would it need exopy since it already has a resin skin? I hate to scimp on a boat but I do like to save my money also. I live in Indiana and there's not alot of Marine ply around, it has to be special ordered and I can actually have it shipped from Florida cheaper. Plus when I have asked all the local lumber yards they only know Fir and from all I have read I'm sure I don't want Fir. Thanks for any info! Quote
capt jake Posted August 18, 2004 Posted August 18, 2004 No, and don't do it. It has been discussed here before and it is not a good idea. It may look good on the surface, but it has no inherant strength in this situation. I will let others elaborate, as many others are more eliquent in describing this. Quote
Guest Posted August 19, 2004 Posted August 19, 2004 Yes it will work and has been used extensively all over the industry in cabin sides, and even complete hulls such as Simmons Sea Skiffs. I have just used two pieces that was over thirty years old on a recycled boat bottom. This is a link to that boat, for your pleasure. It was a sign from a lumberyard when they upgraded to a modern sign now. http://www.messing-about.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2523 If you have used it, you will know that the back sometimes, has some knots in it. So pick through it. But the weight is the issue in comparison to many plywoods, as Ray speaks about here. It can give you a little problem with bending in tight places. Soak the surface, for full saturation if glassing it, with lite coats of resin, letting it soak in, till it does not show any dray areas, If you are confused about this, do a sample test on scrap piece. It is fir plywood, Quote
capt jake Posted August 19, 2004 Posted August 19, 2004 Hmmmmmmmm, I stand corrected? In a hull application? ? Quote
Frank Hagan Posted August 19, 2004 Posted August 19, 2004 Jake, I think you may be thinking of MDF, medium density fiberboard, which will melt in about 30 seconds when exposed to water. MDO is medium density overlay, and is an exterior plywood with a phenolic resin (I think!) coating on one side to make it extra smooth for sign painting. Its waterproof and strong. Won't delaminate on a trailer sailer, but might if kept in the water. Freeway signs are made of the stuff. pr8head, the only concern I can see is where you round off corners on the Weekender design with a rasp. You'll have to use something to seal those areas up along the chine (where the bottom panels meet the sides). Several coats of epoxy would work fine here, and if you get enthusiastic, you could even use fiberglass tape and epoxy along the chines. Sharper chines are better, so you may be able to fit things together without having to do much rounding off! It is heavier, but the Weekender is a light design. It could probably use a couple hundred more pounds anyway. Quote
Guest Posted August 19, 2004 Posted August 19, 2004 Yes in complete hulls. As an example, I redid a 1968 simmons Sea Skiff, Bill Brogden http://www.simmonsseaskiff.com/Gallery/ which is featured in the Simmons Website, blue hull, still rigged and layout as a true Simmons, few are nowadays, with new fasteners, to tighen the boat up. The owner had worked glue into the seams of the laps, to keep water from being force up underway, sinc ehe never did build with any glues on any of his boats. It is a good quality fir plywood, a mix of AC and AB in quality. Sealing the end grain is the same as any other plywood. As far as the paper coming off, maybe so if left exposed to water overtime,w ith no finish on it. But with any trailer boat, as any sign, it will be exposed to the elements in the same way as a trailer boat. I AM NOT PROMOTING IT AS AN ALTERNATIVE. BUT IN CERTAIN AREAS AND WITH CERTAIN COST ASSOCIATED WITH AQUIRING MARINE GRADE PLYWOODS, IT IS A VIABLE SOLUTION. I hope all of the disclaimers have been included here. :wink: By the way, where is Jan and Johanna, and Adla?? UPDATE TIMES LADIES!!!!! Quote
Guest Posted August 19, 2004 Posted August 19, 2004 A little bit of a tip for knots, nots, or just plain cut ends of limbs, :wink: to keep or minimize bleeding through under paints, even latex paints, we will use a spray can of Kilz to precoat the knots, Then paint it with most any paint. Quote
pr8head Posted August 19, 2004 Author Posted August 19, 2004 Hello, I am planning to build a Hartley TS18. I have not recieved the plans yet to really start material shopping but should have them anytime. I origanally was going to build a Weekender, I got the plans for my B-day a couple of years ago. I think it is a sharp looking boat but it's not big enough for the whole family (Wife and I and 2 boys) to actually weekend on. I do wish it was as I could build and rig the whole project for $2000 and it be nicely dressed. I haven't figured the price for the TS18 and Hartley gives very little info on their page. There are lots of Weekender pages but next to no TS18 pages. Has anyone here ever built one (a whole other subject :roll: )? But back to ply. I don't mind Fir core I've just heard alot about marine fir checking badly. At this point I don't plan to leave the boat in the water but who knows. I live on a private lake and it may become an issue. I'd rather not glass IF I can get away with it. I figured that MDO with a resin face wouldn't need glassed. I have never built a boat but I am a woodworker and have built lots of cabinets and furniture. I usually over build my stuff I guess it's just my thing, If I build it I want it to be tough and last a LONG time. If you do it right the first time it's alot easier than fixing it later. At this point I'm just hoping start off in the right direction. I don't mind buying the best materials for the job especially the hull. I do know a little about ply as far as the cabinetry goes but marine is a whole other deal. Thanks for all the info it is a great help! Quote
Guest Posted August 19, 2004 Posted August 19, 2004 This is a link that you can search for woods and plywoods dealers in your area. http://www.woodfinder.net/ This is a centrally located operation to the mid Atlantic, that give good service too. http://www.harborsales.net/index.cfm? Check out the meranti plywoods, and the different grades, 1088 being the most expensive and 5266 being just below the price structure. You can compare and get some approx cost of shipping to your area. Also many cabinet shops work with main wholesale lumber businesses and can get you some stuff that you normally do not use, and bring it in with another order and save you shipping costs too. This is done in our area all the time. http://www.mainecoastlumber.com Quote
Frank Hagan Posted August 19, 2004 Posted August 19, 2004 The Hartleys' are great little boats. I decided against one just on the basis that there weren't as many people experienced with them here in the US as the Weekender. Bob Smalser just reconditioned a Hartley 14 as a gift to his son (I think it was his son!) You can visit the threads below to see some pics of the boat while being reconditioned, and I'm sure Bob would be willing to give you his apprasial of the completed boat now that its launched. Painted and completed: http://www.messing-about.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2495&highlight= Some Repair Pics: http://www.messing-about.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=20028&highlight=#20028 Some More Repair Pics: http://www.messing-about.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=19405&highlight=#19405 Quote
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