How's this for an off the wall idea?

[Guest Steve Downs]

I had an idea. I know that's dangerous but here goes. Here in middle of nowhere marine grade plywood does not exist. To have it shipped in is very expensive so here's my solution. If the only objection to ACX plywood is the voids, what if I cut strips of pine 3/4" x 1/2" cutting around the knots, for the bottom of the Weekender for example. Then I glue them edge to edge, stapled together till the glue dries,layed out flat on the garage floor. After the panel is big enough I would cut it to shape and encapsulate it like Phil Gowans did his scarfed plywood panels. This way I would have solid wood panels. Am I crazy or what? I do have a limited budget and this seems to be a reasonable alternative to marine plywood.

[High C]

Steve, I'm afraid it would break easily. The reason thin plywood doesn't break is that it has multiple layers that have the grain laid perpendicular to one another. When you try to bend it, the plys fight each other and resist. To have similar strength with solid wood, you have to go much thicker, at least double.

Sounds like a lot of work, too. :shock:

I'm convinced that regular old ABX, or ACX is pretty good stuff, as long as it's well encapsulated in epoxy. The voids can be filled as you find them at the edges, and the pine face will finish better than marine fir ply.

This should stir a bit of debate. :wink:

[Barry Pyeatt]

Steve,

Where is the middle of nowhere? ACX is generally available almost everywhere.

Doug fir ACX is a perfectly acceptable material for building a Weekender. Avoid Pine Plywood at all costs. If you can, try to sort thru and pick the best looking sheets. Straighten the pile backup when you are finished though. If all else fails, you can have a local lumber yard order in suitable materials for you.

Regarding making up 4 X 8' X 1/2" pine panels. Lot of work for an inferior end product to good plywood. Good SYP could work, but probably cost just about as much, if not more, than ACX Ply and it wouldn't be as flat or consistent.

If you were going to skimp, I wouldn't skimp by changing out ply for solid wood. It will move, change shape, do all sorts of things and it won't give you the structural integrity of plywood.

The advantage of building this way is the inherent strength and stability of plywood over solid wood of the same thickness. On edge ply is stronger than equivalent woods edge glued. Ply has dimensional stability, solid wood doesn't. Ply doesn't warp or cup, pine does (even edge glued strips).

Go to the www.GlenL.com website and read the infomation on the suitability of various woods for boat building. In particular read about the various grades and advantages/disadvantages of various grades/species of plywood. I think you will find it extremely informative and pertinent to this discussion.

[Guest Steve Downs]

Thanks to Barry and High C once again for your good advice. I can see your point. I'm sure glad I have access to experienced folks like yourselves to vent to. I appreciate it. By the way, the middle of nowhere is here in Cedar City, Utah. The closest big city is Salt Lake City (3 1/2 hours away) or Las Vegas (2 1/2 hours away) so I don't get there very often. I can get ACX plywood in St. George at the Home Depot but I was referring to Marine Grade plywood as being unavailable.

[Guest EdWoerle]

Unless you live somewhere really out of this world, there should be somewhere to get good ply. If all else fails, try http://www.bateau.com . They ship marine ply all over, their prices aren't highway robbery and neither are their shipping charges.

Ed

[Barry Pyeatt]

Well, you really are out in the middle of nowhere. I've probably passed thru there several times on my way to St. George. :roll:

On my way to Vegas.

See if you can find a good contractors lumber yard, they will likely have the materials you will need. Home Depot may or may not have appropriate materials in the lengths/species you need. It may worth it to drive to a larger city on a one time basis to shop for 16' material.

When it comes to picking stock for the keel and stringers, try to avoid white pine, (too soft). Pick the straightest grain possible with as few small tight knots as you can find. It may be necessary to have 2X12X 16 stair riser stock resawn to 3/4" stock for you. Frank and a couple others had good success with resawing. I've planed down thicker stock when necessary to get good material. A lumber yard may be able to do that for you, especially if they take an interest in what you are doing. They will help you to pick good stock for your project.

So don't be afraid to just jump in.

[Ed Jones]

I agree with Barry 100% on what he has had to say. Every one forgot to tell you one important thing about strip wood construction, it requires a lot of frames, and a building form. I tried it once long a go when I was young and dumb and wound up with a lot of fire wood and no boat. We live and learn.

[MikeStevenson]

I'm with High C and Barry: Go with the ACX. It's not going to be a problem in the long run. Decades of ACX boats point to the material working fine. I think the Marine Grade concept is more applicable to boats living in the water. For a trailer boat you can use ACX fine.

Mike

[Steve Downs]

Thanks to Ed and Ray for your comments. I did build a canoe several years ago using cedar strips and I was amazed how the process came together. It worked beautifully for me. The glassing was a good experience and didn't give me a lot of problems. I very happy with the product. It just too bad that I got older and my knees gave out on me and I couldn't kneel to paddle any more. I gave it to my son and he and his family use it quite often up in Rexburg, Idaho.