cprinos

I don't have anything to scan the sheet at the moment, but Wes' site has some good pictures of the rigging on http://www.roguepaddler.com/cs20q.htm. His mainsheet setup looks pretty much like what my plans show.

The rigging plan I have shows the clamcleats for the sheets mounted to the inside of the coaming. Actually, on the rigging plan sheet, there is also piece of hardware shown on the side deck with a callout marked CL206/207, but I think that one is mislabeled as it looks like the oarlock socket plate to me.

I don't know if this helps with your rigging question, but there's a pic from this year's small reach regatta: https://picasaweb.go...898592647443634 If you use the magnifying glass + tool, you can enlarge this picture and make out some of the rigging details. It looks like the sheets were led just the same as if the mizzen was in the rear step. chris (gallery courtesy GIS Amateur Style Blog http://gisamateur.bl...gatta-2011.html )

I don't think you'd be able to get an effective jib shape because the unstayed bendy mast won't keep tension on the jib stay. I think you'd have to start thinking about some kind of running backstay or maybe swept-back spreaders to support a head sail.

It took a few hours to hand plane the scarfs. In the future I think I would consider using the same setup but using a power planer to hog out the bulk of the stair steps first and finish by hand. Along with these scarfs, I made a 3' x 16' ladderframe platform to continue as a big work bench. A full set of casters allows me to move it around in the garage. I have a bigger garage now than I did when I built my kayak, but 14 years and 2 kids later I have a lot more 'stuff' filling said garage, so space is at a premium. At the moment I don't have room for a full 3D CS17 hull, so my cleanup and rearranging work in the garge is not done. Next step is to start gluing up the scarfs (that's when I noticed the issue with my epoxy pumps, see above).

After rough cutting the bottom and side panels, I started with the scarfs, stacking them one on top of the other in stair step fashion. 2" steps for the 6mm, 3" for the 9mm. I looked into all kinds of jigs and attachments for routers, circ saws, and power planers, but in the end I just went at it with a 5-1/2C Jack plane and a low angle block to finish it off.

I started rough cutting panels with a circular saw and jury rigged a shop vac to my saw to help control dust in the garage. I started out by laying panels on some sacrifical 2x4's to make the cut. I plan to make final cuts after lofting the fully-joined panels with a jig saw and plane to the line. Getting the CS17 Kit would save some time, but I was able to get raw ply cheap enough that savings over the kit price will pay for sails, for example, so I figured that was worth it. The plans show a simple method for butt-joining the panels. The engineer in me knows this is good enough, but I figured I'd do the scarfs anyway for my own satisfaction. My kayak has scarfed panels, but I got that as a kit and everything was pre-cut, so that's cheating . I had to do some extra thinking about panel layouts, as they assume butt-joins, however I don't think it will change too much in the end. One thing I did not notice right away is that the Boulter ply panels are 2" longer than 8 foot, which threw off a couple of my rough calculations for the panel lengths.

ok, well to take a step back, I made a few baby steps in the past week or two. First came the plywood. From reading here and on other forums it sounds like a lot of people have trouble finding local suppliers for Okoume, so I will count myself lucky that Boulter plywood is close by. I got 6 sheets 6mm and 3 sheets 9mm of the good stuff The guy who delivered it was a nice guy and a retired lobsterman and told me a story of how the "Perfect Storm" of '91 had deposited his boat inland into a supermarket parking lot. Some of you may have noticed I'm 3 sheets short on the 6mm ply. I did that on purpose....what I got is enough for the major hull panels, transom and bulkhead. I am thinking about possibly making some changes by the time I get to seats and decking, but in any case that is going to be a ways off for me, so this was a chance to spread out some cost. My local lumberyard had some nice clear douglas fir in lengths up to 16', so I got some of that for framing .

Thanks guys. I've worked with epoxy before to build a kayak, but the pumps for that system were a bit different (it was MAS). John - I know what you are saying about relying on the pumps, I've had pretty good luck but it is frustrating when they start sputtering

I've done some rough cutting and scarf planing (more on that later), but have run into a question now that I started to look at some gluing operations... I ordered some epoxy from B&B... just starting some glue operations so I opened it up. I have 3 pumps, one labeled 'A' for resin, two labeled 'B' for hardener ( I got both slow and fast hardener, so there's a pump for each). One B pump has a plastic collar that limits the pump travel. The A pump and one of the B pumps have no collar. Something doesn't seem right here, but I wanted to check. The B pump that has no collar looks like it was meant for the Fast hardener because it has a shorter "extension straw" and the Fast container is smaller (and shorter) than the Slow.

To me it looks like the last part is the wood plug. On the main it looks to be 17" long, with 6" of that buried into the top aluminum section . On the mizzen it is 9 1/2" with 6" of that buried into the top section. Where do you see the 1 5/8" closet rod? On my plans, I see that used for the top section of the three piece masts of the "MAST & SAIL PLAN for Sleeve Luff & Lace Sails" sheet--closet rod is shown for the upper wood section, and I think it only applies for these three part masts that can be disassembled. I don't see any mention of closet rod on the "SPAR PLAN FOR SAIL TRACK" sheet (the one your picture above is from). For the wood plugs on the sail track spars, it looks like the plugs need to have a diameter large enough for a snug fit into the upper 2" aluminum tube. chris

Thanks for the welcomes John & Joe Nice, glad I was able to coax a stealth build out into the open. Let's see some pics when you get that keel batten in (or before).

Hello all, I'm a long-time lurker here, looking to change that by starting a new build thread for CS17 hull # 315. I've done a CLC Mill Creek kayak in the past, and have been wanting to do a sailboat for a long time. I can't promise a quick build, but I'll try to post updates and questions here along the way. Lots of great info is already on the forums here that has given me the confidence to go forward with building a Core Sound. Hopefully I'll be able to add something new for other builders as well. Epoxy and glass is here, plywood delivery is Saturday, a little bit more clearing of the garage bay shop and I should be ready to start. Chris

No first hand experience, but if you are interested in this boat, there was a very good series in several issues on building & sailing in Watercraft Magazine. I don't know all the issues, but #80 (April 2010) is in front of me and that had the final building and sailing report. WoodenBoat 214 (June 2010) also had a sailing report. It looks like an impressive boat. @Frank... 3200lbs looks like the cruising displacement, not the trailer weight (lightship displacement of the cape henry is around 2500) chris

That's a sharp looking boat, great job. That video is probably the best on-the-water footage of a CS that I've seen.