High C

I think it depends on the type of plywood you used. If it's fir, it will eventually show checking through the paint. A couple coats of epoxy, thickened with fumed silica to prevent runs and sags, will keep it smooth. With a non-fir plywood you could forego the epoxy.

Thanks for all the help. Has anyone used the rope loop as in the plans?

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White pine is NO GOOD for much of anything, maybe siding on a house. It is VERY weak and soft, like any fast growing tree. Though it may be a controversial choice on this forum, I find treated pine to be a fine choice for a keel or other structural scantlings. One of the finest boats I'ver ever seen, worth nearly a million bucks, is made of the stuff, even the planking. It is available in 4/4, 5/4, and 8/4, and in some very nice grades. (few, tight knots) Dimensional stability, though, is an issue. It is often quite wet when purchased, and must be dried before use. Lean the boards against a high tree limb so they stand up on end, and protect the bottoms from the ground. This allows the most rapid drying, aside from a heated kiln.

Steve, I'm afraid it would break easily. The reason thin plywood doesn't break is that it has multiple layers that have the grain laid perpendicular to one another. When you try to bend it, the plys fight each other and resist. To have similar strength with solid wood, you have to go much thicker, at least double. Sounds like a lot of work, too. :shock: I'm convinced that regular old ABX, or ACX is pretty good stuff, as long as it's well encapsulated in epoxy. The voids can be filled as you find them at the edges, and the pine face will finish better than marine fir ply. This should stir a bit of debate. :wink:

Good tips, fellers. I just looked at the local hardware store, and they do have the eye that Dave R1 so beautifully photographed for $6. I also already have a length of 3/8" threaded stainless rod that I could use to replace the too short bolt that it comes with. I checked, and it does unscrew from the eye. The eye was said to be made of Zemak, or something like that. I've never heard of that, but I suppose it'll not be too far from stainless on the galvanic chart. They also had a super long spade bit for $8, so I may go for the eye. I'll chew on it overnight and make the decision tomorrow. Thanks! PS: Phil, WOW!

I used space ship paint. It's expensive but withstands heat up to 3000 degrees! Actually I used Glidden acrylic latex exterior house paint. With a dark color it took 7, yes7! coats to look solid. But latex is so easy to apply that I didn't mind. One odd thing about it though, when it's wet it looks like a lighter color, and you get what look like streaks of wet paint where splashes run down the hull. It goes back to normal quickly as it dries.

I'm considering my options for a way to hook the trailer winch to the stem for launch retreival. The plans call for a hole thru the stem, and a rope loop. This seems OK, but I'm tempted to use an eye instead. However, I'm having a hard time locating an appropriate eye. The stem is so large there that it would take a VERY long thru-bolt eye, and an expensive drill bit I don't already have. I found a great looking galvanized lag type eye with a shoulder, but the biggest they have is 1/2" x 3 1/4" This seems too short to me, and may pull out under extreme load? Jamestown doesn't have anything longer. What has everyone else done? Thanks a bunch!

Do spring for the new plans. There are changes, mainly the elimination of the centerboard, that make it a better boat, and easier to build. Worth the $35 for sure.

WOW!!! What a beauty. Superb, marvelous, spectacular. (That's a really pretty Weekender :wink: )

Gaylen, I had the unique opportunity to "try on" the cockpit size, and then change it after the fact. I bought a Weekender that was mostly built, but not finished. I had similar concerns about the size of the cockpit, so I cut the cabin back about a third, and made the cockpit smaller. I left the cabin open in the back, so it's sort of like a hard dodger. I'm glad I did. It's very roomy and comfortable, on the trailer, that is. I haven't launched quite yet. I can stand in the cockpit and lean forward over the cabin and reach the mast. So the halyards can be used and cleated from the cockpit. There are pics on my website, the link in my signature below. BTW, I'm 235# myself. :wink:

They primarily keep the spray that lands on deck from running down your backside and onto the cockpit seats. :shock: It's not a lot of water, usually, but enough to get your clothes somewhat wet.

I have observed the same thing with Raka epoxy, sometimes it pops neatly out of the cup, sometimes it won't come out at all. Maybe it has to do with the temp or humidity. :?: The Raka stuff sure works well, though, especially the no-blush hardner. It seems to have longer pot life than the slow hardner, then dries and hardens quicker once it sets off. And no blush to clean off.

I have a 9'4" plastic Water Tender dinghy that has a tri-hull shape, very square at the bow, much like a Boston Whaler has. It's a nice tender, roomy and stable, but it is SLOW under power (3.5hp). I'm very tempted to build the Spendrift 10 as a replacement, bet it'll do nearly double the speed. Has anyone ever tried to squeeze 4 folks into the 10 without sinking?

Polyester resin does not adhere well to plywood. It makes a good, strong coating that will protect the wood as long as it is intact, but it will not cling to the wood nearly as well as epoxy. The main reason plywood had a so-so reputation as a boat building material was because early boats built with polyester resin didn't last. Try the epoxy from Raka at www.raka.com It's much cheaper than West or System 3 and many builders have used it with great success.

Spectacular! I thought maybe that was a subwoofer under the wheel.

Thanks TD. I just saw your launch pics, way to go! I have the same problem, can't choose a name. My wife thinks she has a good one picked, but I'm still not sure. Gotta decide before the launching! We're off to fabulous Florida next week, so it'll be mid August to launch. Thanks Bruce...

Thanks Stuart, but I must admit that my photography skills are better than my varnishing skills! There are some waves and ripples visible when you look at it at certain angles. I did 7 coats (West Marine's Skipper Varnish) on the transom and 4 on the rudder, plus epoxy on the bare wood underneath. Fortunately, the rudder box was one of the things I got from Bruce (the rudder, too) when I bought the unfinished boat, so I'm not sure what it is. I think it's stainless steel! But it's less shiny than stainless usually looks. It's a VERY stout piece of gear. Maybe Bruce will chime in on the rudder box material; he's still lurking around here somewhere. 8)

Hey Oyster! No, no room to sleep, except maybe one person in the middle of the cabin with their legs sticking out into the cockpit. It's strictly a day boat now. And the cockpit has nearly double the room of the original design. Great to hear from you!

Getting close. The state inspector just came and defaced my transom, but she's legal! Have a look see... www.jtservices.net/boatmy.htm

'Tis a humbling tool , the jigsaw, or sabre saw. I used one to cut out my upper rubrails to follow the curve of the deck. It's the worst looking part of the boat. I was able to fair the outside of the curve with a belt sander, but the inside of the curve is another story. I screwed and caulked them in place, no glue. I may redo them, in another life. :oops:

Awwwww... Soon he'll be keeping you from hitting the dock.

Oh I love it, especially the bronze collar! I'd love to do the chains on my Weekender, but they interfere with the winch on the trailer.