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Ben Miller

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    TC, MI

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  1. I've got the inside taped up and coated in epoxy, so I'm ready to flip her over and start on the exterior. Looking ahead, I have a small question about the gunnel. The instructions say something about making sure the gunnel is applied 1/16" from the top the of the sides, but I'm unsure as to whether that means 1/16" above, or below the top of the sides. Above makes sense to me, since then I'd have a little meat on the gunnels and could bring that down to match the sides. Is that right? Oh, also, I'm not supposed to glass the outside of the center seam, right? The bedding of the keel gives enough strength for this joint?
  2. Thanks Alan. That helps. After a week working on the transom framing it's coming together into the shape of a boat. Yes, I can get it out of the room. 😁 I know that because we stitched it up outside and then carried it inside to do the tack-welds.
  3. Overthinking things again on a weekend morning...The plans don't call for sheathing the hull in glass. If the plans don't call for it, then I'm sure it's not necessary, but I see that some other people have chosen to do it anyways (one example). What are the pros/cons of doing it vs. not doing it? I'm going to be using this to row out to my boat on its mooring. It'll get stored on dry land, so there'll be a little bit of hauling it in and out of the water, but no really rough treatment.
  4. It took me a couple of reads to get it, but yeah, that does make sense. Thanks for the explanation and the illustrations. Boat geometry is hard! I'm glad you guys figured it out for me. 👍
  5. I thought I was all set, but this line threw in a new complication. The specified angle for the stern stiffener matches up perfectly with the aft quarter knee, but the forward one does not. Which one should I follow?
  6. Thanks! Not beveling the plywood will definitely save some work, and I feel up to beveling the stiffener at the appropriate angle. Sounds like I'm good to go on the 1 x 2 seat framing. Off to the next step!
  7. Hey everyone! I'm getting started on a Catspaw 8. So far everything is going pretty smoothly, but a couple of questions have come up about the transoms and I thought I'd throw them out here on the forum. I've glued the stiffeners to the transoms, and I'm at the point where I need to bevel the port and starboard ends of the stiffeners to match the angle of the sides. My question: Should I also bevel the edge of the plywood, so that the stiffener and the plywood edge make one continuous plane? Or do I bevel just the stiffener, so that the side will contact the beveled stiffener and then the outboard corner of the plywood, with a little triangular gap in between the two? Second, I'm having a little trouble deciphering the plan diagrams that show the framing for the stern seat. My interpretation is that the 1 1/2" x 3/4" piece of seat framing that attaches to the stern transom goes below the transom stiffener (i.e. so it's attached to the plywood, not the stiffener). Then it has a shallow U-shaped notch cut in it so that can overlap the filler piece and the outboard pad. That was hard to explain, and probably hard to understand, but does it sound like I'm on the right track? Thanks for the advice!
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