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NowWeTryItMyWay last won the day on November 2 2018

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  1. NowWeTryItMyWay

    Broken Finger Joint Repair?

    In gluing up the long hull panels, just to make things extra challenging, I broke off one of the fingers of the finger joints between the #4 and #5 panels, where the gear teeth are for unfolding it, and then lost the missing piece. I was wondering if anyone has a suggestion for repairing this? I could cut a replacement wooden finger and then epoxy that into place. I have some oak that is the right thickness. Or, I could just fill the whole spot with a sawdust - epoxy mixture. I could also put just a bit of fiberglass on either or both sides to stiffen it up. I'm not too worried about it in the long term (since the outside at least will be glassed.) I'm a little concerned that if the repair is insufficiently strong during the unfolding process, it might knock the patch out when this panel is grinding / flexing against the other panel that it mates to.
  2. NowWeTryItMyWay

    Core Sound 20 Mk. 3 #22 - Essex Fells, NJ

    Thanks for everyone's suggestions and help, have made some progress on this project. . . finished most of the assembly of the sub-structures in the kit, including bulkheads + reinforcement, cockpit locker tops + coamings, frame for the cradle, tiller assembly and rudder, glassed the centerboard, tabernacles, and scarfed together all the long panels. I think my next step is stringers + cleats throughout, and then probably the dovetail joints for the hull panels and wiring it up for the unfolding.
  3. NowWeTryItMyWay

    Core Sound 20 Mk. 3 #22 - Essex Fells, NJ

    Ok, I'm convinced. Thanks to you both for the therapy explanation. I was worried there might be some unspoken extra step (e.g. trunnels, other fasteners, ) that would be obvious to the more skilled. . . I'll report back. Separately should have the rudder finished soon and hung up in a corner of the shop so its out of the way for hull construction.
  4. NowWeTryItMyWay

    Core Sound 20 Mk. 3 #22 - Essex Fells, NJ

    Have been making some progress on the smaller sub assemblies, locker tops, and rudder. My kit came with a fully CNC'd centerboard and a very heavy solid lead tip as shown in the drawing. Am getting ready to construct this, and I think I understand the instructions, but I don't really see how it could actually work without breaking off the first time the centerboard hits the bottom (which will probably be the first time I put it into the water, at least if I'm driving. . . ) The instructions say "First glue the lead tip to the board with thickened epoxy." I know that epoxy will stick to wood, but it doesn't seem like it should stick to lead. . . The glue surface here on the lead is relatively smooth. Do I need to drill dowel sockets into the lead and/or the bottom of the wooden centerboard for shear forces? Do I need to rough up the lead with a file so that the epoxy has something to hold onto? I know that the epoxy is pretty strong but this seems like asking too much. Next / final step reads "Bring the fiberglass sheathing past the lead joint then add another 6" wide strip of glass across the joint." My question here is, how far past the lead joint should I go with the first coat of glass? I could run the initial layer of glass all the way down to the bottom tip of the board, or I could stop it before the tip and then the next piece could overlap it and cover the bottom. Or, I could even possibly run the glass from each side around and under the bottom of the lead, like stirrups or footie pajamas, and then use the additional 6" strip to overlap those loose ends with the joint. My (completely inexperienced) intuition says that without another few layers of glass this will be a breakage point. In my mind I have this nervous vision of the lead tip whacking a rock at speed, breaking the epoxy joint and just falling out, and I keep sailing on with a the hollow epoxy/fiberglass tip on the bottom of the centerboard that used to have the lead in it. Maybe I just need more faith in the fiberglass or epoxy.
  5. NowWeTryItMyWay

    Core Sound 20 Mk. 3 #22 - Essex Fells, NJ

    One early question on the washboard (C6) that drops down to close up the cabin... It has holes cut out and it came with oval shaped lights (C7a) and window flanges (C6b). I'm wondering what is the right way to assemble this? I think the procedure is, epoxy paint everything to seal it, then paint, then drop the light in with caulk, and attach the flange with removable fasteners. However, for the deadlights in the cabin, there is an inner and outer ring, and you glue in a rivet nut between them which you use to attach the outer ring. Here, there is no inner ring, just a rabbet in the washboard. I could just use screws. . . but it seems like that would be too simple.
  6. NowWeTryItMyWay

    Core Sound 20 Mk. 3 #22 - Essex Fells, NJ

    Yep, I'm in northern New Jersey, so the leaves are falling in force here. Some early progress. Got the crate emptied out and inventoried the parts. Rather than starting with the hull strakes I've been hunting through the instructions for all the free-floating bench projects, to cut down the number of loose parts that are now occupying every spare surface in the shop. My assistant has claimed the empty crate and is no longer interested in sanding.
  7. NowWeTryItMyWay

    Core Sound 20 Mk. 3 #22 - Essex Fells, NJ

    Thanks all, yes I've built a couple of small open boats before, but just based on unpacking the crate, this one has more parts by a factor of 10 at least! I'm looking forward to the challenge but also regretting not buying Chick's boat when it was for sale last year.
  8. Hello- Kit was just delivered today, very excited to be getting started! Will try to post lots of photos and will surely be asking for help! First job is just to inventory all the parts! NowWeTryItMyWay

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