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NowWeTryItMyWay last won the day on July 11

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  1. This may be a silly question. . . But if things are "close" with one mast-head float, wouldn't it be a good idea to use two mast-head floats, since there are two masts?
  2. Have made some progress lately on internal members, centerboard, and centerboard trunk. Don't have the internal structures glued-in yet, but I finished the centerboard trunk piece today so I think that will come soon! Have coated both the inside of the centerboard trunk, plus the entire centerboard, with graphite + epoxy mixture to try and minimize friction / binding in the rotation of the board. It starts off very shiny and the sands down to dull grey.
  3. I can report back that I got the green angle stuff in the mail a few weeks ago, and it seems to work great. As predicted, its a little heavy, but has clean edges, easy to work with, and glued up nicely to the members that would go inside the ballast tank.
  4. Have made some progress in the last few weeks. Glassed the keel (inside), broke and then fixed my hanging knees, made several other errors and recovered, attached the transom, framed out the centerboard trunk and coated the inside with an epoxy / graphite mixture so it will hopefully have less friction with the CB. Also have attached approximately 800 cleats to the top of interior members, almost ready to dry-fit the inside components of the boat.
  5. @Alan Stewart - Ok, great, that's what I figured but wanted to double check. I figured it would be difficult to get in there to add another pivot after I glue the cover on!
  6. Hello - I'm putting together the centerboard trunk and had a question about the pivot(s) for the line that raises the centerboard. In the drawings, there is one pivot labeled Harken 243 block. Then just below it , there is another thing that looks like a pivot, but it isn't labeled and seems to not totally make sense (I don't see how it would provide any benefit, and looks like it is in the way.) I was wondering if this is a real thing or maybe just an artifact in the drawing?
  7. I could use a suggestion for correcting a small air gap between BH2 and the hull, and then a bigger one between the forward hanging knee and the hull panel. I'm at the step in the instructions, after glassing the keel, where it says to temporarily fit the hanging knees to set the width of the hull to the final shape. I did this and found some air gaps between the hanging knees and the hull. My first attempt to fix this (pushing on the hull from the outside) did not work out the way I had hoped. The hull seems to be wide enough at the top (by the temporary battens), but where the chine is between the first strake and the second strake, it bends out further than expected by the bulkhead and the hanging knees. The gap by the bulkhead isn't very big and (perhaps) is within tolerances already? But the one by the hanging knee seems big enough to be "wrong" and that's the part that I'm not sure how to fix.
  8. @Todd Stein I'm building the same boat, I think just a few weeks ahead of you. The gentlemen on this forum have been lifesavers with advice and instructions. I try to do my small part by posting reports with first hand knowledge of mistakes to avoid. Good luck!
  9. Building the CS20.3, I'm at the step where we install the hanging knees into the hull after filleting and glassing the keel. I made a really stupid mistake wanted a bigger challenge and snapped the aft hanging knee into thirds, where the cut-outs are for the deck support beams. I've started fixing this by putting everything in place, liberally applying epoxy, and putting about 8" of fiberglass tape on both sides of both breaks. It seems to be pretty strong now, so I am planning to just clean it up and proceed. But, I am wondering if anyone else had to fix something like this, and if so, if more drastic measures would be necessary? One possibility I was considering was to add a fillet for 5-6" on either side of the breaks, in the L-shaped corner formed by the overhang of the doubler, and then wrap a second piece of fiberglass around that fillet, which I think would have the effect of approximately doubling the thickness of the "beam" at that point (under the notch for the deck beam). Not sure if this is overkill, but given my ability to break stuff, overkill might not be the worst thing in the world.
  10. Am getting ready to fillet and glass the keel, and have a quick question for those that have gone before. At this point, the keel and chines are wired together, but the inside and outside of the hull are bare wood. BH1 and BH2 are coated/sealed with epoxy and sanded, ready for fillets or paint. The way I read the instructions, you dry-fit BH1 and BH2 to make the hull take its proper shape, then you fillet and glass the keep tip to transom with BH1 and BH2 in there (so it keeps the shape), and then a step or two later you fillet and glass the joints between BH1 and BH2 and the hull. My question is, if I fillet and glass the keel with BH1 and BH2 poking into the bottom of it, there will be (or, will there be?) bare wood spots where the bottom edge of either BH is touching the hull (or touching the stringers), and I won't be able to get epoxy in there later because it will be stuck in place because the bottom corner is now a part of the bow / keel fillets? Should I first paint a coat or two of neat epoxy up the lines on the hull where the bulkheads will go, and let that cure, before I stick the bulkheads back in and make the keel fillet? Something else? Or is this just not an actual problem in practice? I saw some build logs from others who first did the fillets without installing the bulkheads, this seems like another option but then I'd have to cut off the bottom tips of the bulkheads.
  11. The CS20mk3, sorry for the confusion! I "tagged" the post when I wrote it but didn't mention the boat in the title, which I just updated
  12. Two related questions: 1 - Would it be a good idea to put an inspection port to allow access to the sealed compartment under the anchor well? Looking at the drawings, I think that the only totally sealed compartment without any access or ventilation is the area under the anchor well. Should an inspection port or vent be installed? And if so, where? A really small hole could go on BH1 between the anchor well cleat and the forward locker cleat. Or, a big one could go on the anchor well? 2 - Would it be a good idea (or not) to notch water drain paths in the bulkheads, bunk supports, and other vertical members throughout the boat so that water that gets into the boat could get to the lowest place and be drained or pumped out? I was thinking about recovery from a really wet capsize, or what to do if I leave the hatches open and rain (or a freak wave) pours into the cabin, and noticed that there is no drain path for water that gets into internal nooks such as (i) the forward locker, (ii) the two compartments aft of the forward locker, (iii) the lockers under the port/starboard bunks, (iv) the battery compartment, (v) the rear lockers, etc. I was wondering if it might be a good idea to notch drain holes in all of the vertical members throughout, so that water that gets into the boat it could collect at some low bilge-type spot and be conveniently pumped or sponged out (possibly, near the bottom of the aft seat locker(s)?) I ask the question with some humility - obviously folks have considered this before and I can think of a bunch of reasons why it might not be done - maybe it won't work because the "low" spot I'm imagining isn't actually lower, or the boat is dry enough that it is not an actual problem in practice, or perhaps it would compromise some other aspect of the design (i.e. the aft lockers can get swamped but the forward bunk compartments could still be dry?) But, I'm pretty new to this and so I'm not sure how to evaluate those. I was also thinking that if I installed a ballast pump like @Jknight611 did (here), I might be able to rig it with a valve to also pump water out of the bilge. But, for maximum usefulness, all the different parts of the boat would want to drain to wherever that bilge pump's intake was.
  13. I've ordered 40' of the green stuff and will report back once I see if it works. After shipping ($22) and cutting fees ($60!!!) it came out to about $4.15 / foot, and I'll have 15' left over. The cutting fee was a little surprise that basically doubled the cost. If its really fantastic, maybe I'll use it all up in place of some other cleats that are specified as wood. And if it stinks, I'd be happy to sell the extras to anyone that wants some for a good price!
  14. In the CS20.3 instructions around p. 17 the instructions provide for making up about 25' of fiberglass "L-Channel." I'm wondering if this could be substituted for off the shelf parts. I'm not lazy, I just want to save my time & energy for sanding I googled a bit and found this product: https://www.eplastics.com/fiberglass/profiles/equal-leg-angle The cheapest grade here is $2 / foot. They describe it chemically as "A general-purpose isophthalic polyester resin system with a UV inhibitor." The higher grade stuff is described as "A premium vinylester resin system with a UV inhibitor." I was wondering, does that description of the type of resin tell us whether it will bond with the B&B epoxy mixture that came with the kit? Or, if anyone has done this before, does anyone have any examples of an L-channel that would work off the shelf?
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