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NowWeTryItMyWay

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NowWeTryItMyWay last won the day on August 4

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  1. The gap between the bulkhead and the hull panel is only at BH2, and only for an inch or two down from where the hull panel hits the bulkhead. If the sheer strake is pushed hard against the bulkhead (option 1) I'd say that there will be a "lip" where the hull panel sticks out for about 6-8" on either side of BH2 gradually disappearing
  2. Good morning! I'm in the process of fitting the sheer strakes onto my cabin frame, have a gap problem, and could use advice... During construction I messed up the joint between the very top part of the hull panel and BH2 - instead of them being tight here is a slight gap of approximately .3 - .5 cm. This joint is filleted and glassed and everything else has been built around it so I don't think this gap is closable at this point. [Photo below with a red circle around the gap.] However, I think this means that I have to pick between one of two issues, either: The sheer strake is tight against the bulkhead, so the hull panel will jut out a little bit to the outside of the bottom of the sheer strake [Photo below with a red square around the underhang]. I think I would then cover up that problem with a gunnel strip on the outside and pretend it never happened; or The sheer strake is properly positioned on top of the hull panel, and there is a .5 cm gap in between the inside bottom of the sheer strake and the bulkhead, which would narrow as the sheer strake approaches the top of the bulkhead and meets the cabin top. Here, I would just fill this with thickened epoxy, glass over it, and pretend that it never happened. I was wondering if anyone had any good advice on what to do or whether there is a better way to obfuscate my mistake? -e
  3. @Hirilonde - Yup, I'll put a big backer on it. The lack of adjustment , for better or worse, is no different from the other removable motor mount I was looking at. @Steve - I have a really small outboard (Suzuki 2.5) which I like to take off and stow in a locker when I'm not using it, which is typically as soon as I get away from the dock. This might be a niche case!
  4. Hello- I was wondering if anyone had ever used one of these bronze motor mounts on a CS20.3 or similar boat? https://www.spartanmarine.com/all-products/compete-outboard-motor-mount ? It looks kind of cool, and the other motor mount that I ordered is out of stock with no shipping date, so I'm considering other options. This mount seems to expect only a slightly raised gunnel above the aft seat. Since the transom stiffener on the CS20.3 is a little taller, I think I would have to either cut it down, or put a riser under the brass pad to elevate the angle, or both. -e
  5. Its hard to see in those snaps, but I beefed up the starboard-side rear transom with a big chunk of plywood to accept a motor mount. My plan is to use this one from Duckworks: https://duckworks.com/removable-outboard-motor-bracket/. I ordered it a month or so ago and they've said that its coming... eventually but that their supplier is behind schedule. I don't really have a plan B yet... I really like this one: https://www.spartanmarine.com/all-products/compete-outboard-motor-mount but it is kind of pricey and also not sure if/how that would clear the transom stiffener. I went back and forth on painting the lockers and inside and eventually did it out of personal preference and also because I wanted it to be in the same condition as painting prepped regardless (e.g. smooth, clean, etc.); and once I did all that work slapping the paint on was really quick
  6. Wanted to post an update on this build which has taken a bit longer than I had planned This summer we have made major progress. All internal structures & bulkheads are installed, cockpit sole is installed, deck framing is installed, and the port / starboard cockpit seats are installed. Next steps are aft thwart/seat, boomkin + transom stiffener, and sheer strakes. -Erik
  7. Additional thoughts: 1 - We attached the inflatable tube bag "crew saver" style mast floats to the starboard side of the luff of our our sails, and tied them on both top and bottom so they wouldn't flop around. Instead of the permanently installed top-of-the-mast rigid Hobie style masthead floats. When we were sailing on a port tack, this worked great. When we were sailing on a starboard tack, we think that this contributed to our poor pointing-upwind-on-a-starboard-tack performance. 2 - With both sails double reefed, the mizzen didn't seem strong enough to balance the main, we were getting some lee helm. When we felt comfortable doing so, we had better luck with two reefs in the main and one in the mizzen. But when things got rough we just reefed everything we could. 3 - Sitting around and watching it for days on end, we wondered if the baggy reefed sails were somehow hurting our performance, and were wondering if maybe an entirely different sail, cut smaller, would improve performance for long periods where we would otherwise be reefed. WE know that the race rules require reefs in the sails anyways, and so this would be in addition to the regular sails w/ 2 reef points, not instead of.
  8. Hi All- We were the guys sailing Chessie, just saw this thread and wanted to post a little update, and ask a question or two. We had 4 tough moments in the race, attributable to varying degrees of weather conditions and human errors. 1 - Attempting to get into Pine Island Sound through Boca Grande Pass at night, we were unable to sail up into the wind + current into the pass. I made a little screenshot below of our tracking map, the bit where it shows us going WSW, we were actually pointed ENE and getting carried backward. At night this was very disorienting. After a few more attempted tacks, we just gave up and went in at Captiva pass further south. Either there was no current at that time, or something else was different, because it was no problem. 2 - Same night, sailing sough through the middle of Pine Island Sound, the winds and waves were pretty high and we were single reefed on both main and mizzen, sailing on a beam / broad reach. There was a lot of weather helm and the boat was really rocking hard, so we tied up another reef and the boat settled down and we sailed fine for a while. Later that night, we needed to tack up a little bit to make a bridge approach, and we again just couldn't get the boat as close to the wind as was needed to make progress. We slept for an hour or so and that morning, when the wind lightened up, we were able to point upwind a lot better. 3 - Coming around East Cape (again in the dark, again double reefed), some combination of currents, wind, and waves conspired to prevent us from tacking up in towards Flamingo. Additionally, we were very confused by the unlighted markers vs lighted markers vs distant radio towers in our charts In the morning when winds were a little lighter, we shook a reef out and could proceed. 4 - Transiting south around the outside of Florida Bay (again double reefed) high winds, waves (and possibly current?) made it really difficult to make progress upwind. Small screenshot below showing an example attempted tack. During this time, the sun was up, but we were out of sight of land. When we were on the southerly tack, our compass heading was at least 15' further east than our actual GPS heading; and the same for the northerly tack. There was a tiny bit of lee helm. But, we were just not able to make the upwind progress in the direction of the ICW, so we bailed out and stopped on Conch Key; and got a tow to the public boat ramp on Marathon. My brother made a little video of our view of the race (and his fan boat tour) here: .
  9. We launched from the Liberty State Park Boat Ramp (not the Marina, the boat ramp).
  10. Just wanted to close this thread out. . . Thanks to everyone for their suggestions and advice! B&B sent me a new rudder blade, very quick and much appreciated. I haven't finished finishing it, but I stole the already finished & glassed rudder from the other CS20.3 that I'm building and used it in Chessie. Even though that one is glassed on both sides it fits just fine, @Mike Vacanti was totally right about the thinness of glass. Went out for a nice sail yesterday in NY Harbour with Chessie, took some nice shots of downtown Manhattan, Hoboken Lackawana Ferry Terminal, and the Statue of Liberty. With the water ballast in, handled the wake from the ferries and pleasure boats no problem. too
  11. Thanks to all for the suggestions. I'm going to construct a new rudder blade and glass it, just to be sure. @Alan Stewart, as you suggested, since the current rudder blade fits snugly in the rudder assembly, I think just glassing the blank as-is would make it too thick. I wonder if the right thing to do would be to sand the rudder blade down (or possibly, run it through the thickness planer?) before applying the fiberglass. Do you happen to know, offhand, how much thickness a layer of fiberglass cloth + epoxy would add? I would guess somewhere between 1/16 and 1/8". My thinking is that, if I want the rudder blade to be 3/4" thick, and each layer of fiberglass is X", I would plane or sand the blade down to 3/4-(2 * X) before glassing it.
  12. Hi All- A quick PSA to report on the failure of a rudder blade on the CS20.3. I was sailing Chessie (CS 20 Mk. 3 Sail # 4) this weekend in Raritan Bay, out of the Keyport Municipal Boat Ramp. Tacking gently in about 5 kts wind, there was a soft snapping sound, steering wasn't so good, and we saw a little bit of the boat floating out backwards behind us. We used the motor, picked up the part, and got back home no problem. Took some pictures to illustrate the breaking point. thanks, Erik
  13. Hey Alan- Did you guys ever do this testing, reach any conclusions, release new sail slides, etc? If newer, beefier sail slides are recommended, would be happy to buy some of them
  14. I was looking at the new Class Globe kit with the keel with the big bulb on the end of it. It occurred to me that if there was some way to retract the keel into the cabin, it would have a pretty shallow draft not unlike the Core Sound boats. I was wondering if there was some reasonable design for making that work? Maybe not on this boat but on boats generally? Or whether it would require a bunch of trade-offs that make it not desirable? In my mind, it would be a short, tightly fitting centerboard trunk, maybe a foot tall, and about as long (fore to aft) as the length of the keel itself, with a removable lid at the top. While you're underway and the water is deep, the keel would be all the way down and the removable lid would be tightly fastened down with a gasket or clamp or something to make it watertight. But when you wanted to raise the keel, you could take the lid off and crank the keel straight up vertically, perhaps with a line and some blocks, or perhaps with a handle + crank. The keel would then be retracted into the cabin, probably with the topmost part resting up near the ceiling of the cabin. The bulb could either stick out because it is too big to fit through the slot, or perhaps the bottom of the boat could have an indentation so that the bulb fits in and doesn't stick out past the bottom of the boat. This might be good for sneaking in someplace protected when you're done sailing for the day.
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