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Everything posted by Chas231

  1. Yep. Looks like the same set- up. The only connections I've made so far are the lines in, so it shouldn't be too bad. Just seems like a poor design feature. I'll be loading the panel with breakers in the extra positions to hopefully avoide taking it all apart too soon in the future. I should have done that on the bench before installing the panel. . .but I seem to learn most things after doing it wrong the first time. Routing the wires from the bottom is a good idea. Thanks Tom.
  2. Embarrassed to have to ask, but . . . I want to replace a 10 amp breaker with a 15 on my AC panel. Should be simple, two screws on the front of the breaker and one on the back connecting it to the bus bar. Seems I have to remove the bus bar to get the breaker out, removing the screws from the other breakers on the bus bar. Is that right?
  3. Thanks Tom. I think you're right - I may have been over thinking and confusing myself. All the devices I'm installing specify the proper fuse protection. All the lights are LED's and nothing pulls over 8 amps. I'm using a circuit breaker panel along with regular fuses. 8 gauge wire runs from the batteries to the helm. 16 gauge wire should work for everything except the wash down pump, which is rated 8 amps. I'll run 12 gauge wire for it. Still a lot more to wire, but I think it will work for me.
  4. Thanks guys. I'll install a battery terminal fuse. Moving on to breaker size: is there a formula for determining the appropriate breaker size? For example, the chartplotter is rated at 1.2 amps at 13volts. It will be wired with 16 gauge wire, total length less than 4 feet. The installation manual states to connect with a 3 amp fuse. What size breaker should be used at the DC panel? A West Marine article says: Selecting the correct breaker size is a real problem for most custom and standard panels on the market. The issue is the impossibility of anticipating what breakers will be needed on a distribution panel, since all boats are different. Blue Sea Systems solves this problem simply. They reason that the majority of circuits onboard will have loads of less than 15A (certainly that is the case with most electronics, lights, pumps, small refrigerators, etc.). They also reason that most wire used for circuits will be at least 14-gauge, although it may be as small as 16-gauge. Therefore, they supply their panels with 15A circuit breakers throughout the panel, for the following reasons: If the circuit uses 16-gauge (small) wire, which has an ampacity of 25A, the breaker will protect it. 15A is larger than most loads on a boat. A small fuse can be used at the load, or a smaller breaker substituted in the panel if smaller current protection is necessary. So am I safe using a 10 or 15 amp breaker along with a smaller fuse at the load?
  5. Thanks. I understand determining wire size from a device to the distribution panel, but I'm not sure how to determine the amps and wire size from the batteries to the distribution panel at the helm. Do I add the amps from every device connected to the panel? Seems this would be an exaggerated number as all the devices will never be powered on at the same time. Or, should wire size be determined by the total amps of the maximum number of devices that might be powered at the same time? The installer used 8 gauge wire to the helm with no breaker. Chuck
  6. Your post wasn't a thread killer; this just seems to be a long project for me. I appreciate your help. Ended up with Paneltronics panels for the AC and DC systems. Still working on the wiring. When the motor was installed I asked the installer to run power to the helm. I understand I need a fuse on this line, close to the battery. Could I use a battery terminal fuse to meet this requirement? How do I determine the the amp rating for the fuse?
  7. Moving into the wiring stage of the construction. Batteries are mounted, charger mounted, and power run to the helm. I'm thinking of using a prewired DC panel with switches and circuit breakers. Blue Sea Systems has a 13-position panel. Any issues with using this kind of panel, as opposed to a separate fuse or breaker block and switches?
  8. She floats! First sea trial yesterday. Happy with the boat's attitude and power. Still a lot of work to be done, but it's a good feeling knowing she'll rest on top of the water! Chuck
  9. Thanks for fixing the picture Tom. Thanks Egbert. We rolled the paint. It's far from perfect, not up to the standards of show boats, but I'm happy with it. I planned to roll and tip, but the paint was drying too quickly. Used Rustoleum Marine.
  10. To follow up: The mahogany strips came off pretty easily. After sanding the hull was in pretty good shape. The hull had been covered with Xynole and multiple coats of resin, and was not damaged, except for the small holes made by the brads which held the mahogany strips while gluing. The holes and scratches were filled with Interlux Surfacing Putty, then a coat of resin. The hull was finished with a coat of high build primer and three coats of Rustoleum Marine. I'm happy with the final result. Not as pretty as the mahogany, but should be much less maintenance and I'm confident the hull is sealed. Appreciate the help and advice! (Sorry for the upside down pic!)
  11. Thanks guys. All good advice. I think the varnish issue was the result of a number of factors, mainly as a result of rushing. I understand the mahogany veneer is basically cosmetics. I like it and plan to keep it. The strips are milled to 1/4". The added wood weight for both sides and the transom amounts to about 112 lbs. It will compromise performance marginally, but worth it for the appearance in our minds. The fastener holes left after removing the brads will have to be addressed. The holes don't go through the hull, but they do penetrate about 1/4" into the hull. It appears to me that the resin sealed the holes in the mahogany, but it's doubtful the hull has been sealed completely. Removing the veneer strips and sealing the holes may be the only option? How about covering the veneer mahogany with fiberglass? That would re-seal the hull completely from any intrusion.
  12. Rather than paint, decided to strip the hull with mahogany strips. Happy with the result so far, but am having a finishing issue. Applied three coats of epoxy resin with good results - very clear and glossy. Because I understand resin is not UV resistant, wanted to apply varnish on top of the resin. The store didn't have gallons of varnish, so Minwax Urethane was chosen. According to the label it is extremely durable and UV resistant. Our result was terrible. Today, two days after application, the finish had turned milky white and was peeling off. We were able to remove the finish with a power washer and Scotch Brite pads. Except for some minor scuffing, I'm back to a nice shiny resin finish. I'm thinking I'll scuff the finish with a light sanding and apply one more coat of resin. Was my mistake using urethane and not varnish? The weather was damp, but the varnish had dried to a nice glossy finish before going bad.
  13. Good advice - think I got it now. Egbert, as usual, your work is very nice. Looks like a factory piece! Will you be able to remove your fuel tank with the splash well floor in place? My tank extends back to about 9" in front of the transom. If I make the splash well floor permanent I'm not sure I could remove the tank.
  14. Thanks for the help. The hole is drilled and will be coated with several coats of resin. Is the brass tube necessary? I think the plug will fit nicely in the resin-coated hole. Still trying to understand the splash well. Should the splash well floor be made above the cockpit sole, slanted toward the transom for drainage, and made removable for access to the bilge?
  15. Now that the boat has moved onto the trailer and out from under the house I realize I need to install a transom drain. Are the brass tubes preferred? Is a flanging tool required? Is it sufficient to drill a slightly oversized hole and coat the inside with resin, or should an oversized hole be filled entirely with resin, then re-drilled through the epoxy?
  16. Took the easy way out. Hired a local guy with a crane. And as a bonus, he lifted the top on the pilothouse.
  17. Thanks Tom. Great advice. Got the boat winched out far enough to remove the temporary floor. Forward motion went smoothly; crabbing it sideways on the soft weathered strand board more difficult. Next step will be getting it lifted onto the trailer. Chuck . (Sorry for the upside down pic!)
  18. It''s about time to move the boat out from under the house and onto the trailer. The boat had turnover frames for the two previous moves, so attaching casters to roll it out was easy. Without the turnover frames, I can set dollies under the stern without a problem, but the angle of the bottom at the bow is problematic. Would a roller under the keel work? I could just keep adding rollers as it moves forward. Any structural issues with this method? After it is out from under the house I'm considering hiring a local boom truck to lift it high enough to roll the trailer under it. Any alternative ideas will be appreciated! Chuck Smith
  19. That sounds right, Egbert. I'll fill the fiberglass weave. I've been looking at Durabak coating for the decks. Looks to be very tough, and a good non-slip. Practical Sailor gave it an Editor's Choice a couple of years ago. Chuck
  20. Thinking about Henry's advice to apply a non-slip coating to the cabin top. I just applied the first coat of resin to fiberglass cloth, which resulted in a very nice nonslip surface. Two questions: is one coat of resin enough? (The first coat took about a gallon), and, will rolled on paint maintain the nonslip surface? Or, any better ideas for non-slip? Thanks. Chuck
  21. I was leaning toward (no pun intended) the Nature's Head composting toilet, but am looking at the SeaLand Gravity Discharge 711-M28. Price is a consideration: the SeaLand costs about $600 less. It uses onboard fresh water and has a 9.5 gallon holding tank in the base. Manual states an average of one quart per flush, which should provide plenty of capacity for our purposes between pump outs. The base is kind of large, about 19" square, which will fit in my head. A ceramic toilet bowl is a plus. Installation is straightforward; water connection, 1 1/2" discharge hose, and 5/8" vent hose. Anything I'm missing?
  22. With sturdy turnover frames, we found turning the boat to be easier than expected, as Tom advised. I'm working under the house and had to roll the boat out, spin it end-for-end, then roll it. Not great video quality, but here's how we did it:
  23. Load Rite does have a stainless hardware update. Good advice. Thanks.
  24. I have to start thinking about a trailer - the Bluejacket will have to be moved out from under the house to mount the pilothouse top. I really like the DJR trailer that Henry and others are using, but Glen Burne is an 8 hour drive from Oak Island. I've been talking to the local Load Rite dealer. He can set up a similar trailer: aluminum, tandem, 8400 lb. capacity, stainless steel disc brakes, aluminum wheels, long enough for bunks to extend to the transom and some extra length for adjustments. The price will be several hundred higher, but the advantages of local service outweigh the price. I''ve talked to Henry, and he didn't get very far with his Load Rite dealer, but this one sounds pretty good. Any other thoughts on Load Rite?
  25. I plan to use 1 1/2" flexible braided pvc tubing for the water fill. I need to make a 90 degree turn coming out of the tank. Do standard schedule 40 fittings work with tubing? Plumbing is not my forte!
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