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Everything posted by Adios

  1. For any of you who may have had an interest in this project, my apology. It has been a long time since I have posted but the project is still ongoing, SLOWLY. It's a hobby after all. Some updated photos follow. I am now at the point of glassing in the bilge compartments and thinking ahead to the interior finish. After fairing, the hull was covered with 18 oz glass, doubled at the keel and chines. After wetting out, peel ply was applied and all of the bubbles worked out.This was done in one stage (for strength) and took a surprising amount of epoxy. This part is not a one man job and the help of some interested and knowledgeable friends was very much appreciated.
  2. I picked her up and put wheels under the strong back, cleaned up the dust to get things ready to glass the transom. The plan is to leave the transom bright and have an outboard on an Armstrong bracket I had previously painted the transom with epoxy (WEST 105/207) to protect the veneer from damage. It was sanded to remove gloss and cleaned of dust with acetone. Draped with 7.5 oz E-glass and taped in place and wetted out with 105/207. It took 2 additional coats (with foam rollers while green) to fill the weave. It came out very clear. I'll sand it with 220 or finer and add another coat before varnish. Don't know why that top picture keeps coming out sideways...sorry!
  3. For those of you asking, please accept my apology for so much time between posts. Very little work has been done this summer. The pace at work has been busy and time has been better spent with family. We also have had a very hot summer with many 95+ days which makes working with epoxy impossible. I'm back at it, though, and hope to have the boat turned before too much longer. I've sealed the wood with unthickened epoxy, faired with WEST fairing compound and glassed the transom just today. We plan the glass the hull next weekend. Pictures follow. Unthickened epoxy rolled on with foam rollers to fill and seal woodgrain before application of fairing compound. Entire boat slathered with fairing compound. Fairing board made with 6mm ply and #36 grit sanding belts. After LOTS of sanding and dust! Pretty fair at this point but still needs touchup of some shallow spots.
  4. After half a day of #40 grit sandpaper on an orbital sander
  5. I think that I have the technical error at the bow under reasonable control and have finished planking. I had a lot of trouble understanding how the planking transitioned from the flare at stations one and two to the stem where it would only meet at the edge of the sheerclamp. I might also have had a bias, in my mind's eye, as to how I thought it should look as opposed to how Graham actually drafted it. That's why I'm the neophyte and he's the professional! I used battens to shape and simply take off some of the excess overhang at the stem. I was careful to shape this so it wouldn't appear as an afterthought. I will build up the sheerclamp on the inside if need be. Although it still is not exactly as designed, I'm pleased with the shape and think it will be OK. Now I'm sanding off globs and proud staples. I still have to round off the chines and transom edge so the glass will drape and then start the dreaded fairing routine. Hopefully have it glassed by the end of June. I'm still debating the best way to glass the transom and keep it bright.
  6. Good idea Alan, I had not thought of that. Thanks
  7. Okay, So I'm finishing the planking and figuring out how to deal with the error mentioned above but I have a question for the readership. I want to leave the transom bright finished. The plans call for 1808 biaxial glass (2 layers of glass and 3/4 oz mat stitched together). I obviously can't cover the transom with this and expect to clear coat. What is the strongest (heaviest?) glass to put on the transom and still expect to get a nice finish? E-glass? S-glass? Dynel? I have to place an order soon. Thoughts anyone? Thanks
  8. Thanks for the advice. I'll keep posting pictures I and appreciate your guidance.
  9. Graham, Thanks for the reply. I struggled with that issue and should have checked with you. I guess that I'm committed to it as is at this point. Any suggestions as I go forward?
  10. The last plank or two at the bow are very difficult. The 6mm ply can't tolerate the bend and I've broken multiple planks. If I've built correctly, the sheer clamp where it meets the stem is parallel to the waterline. The planking must make a severe bend to give it the characteristic Carolina bow flare. It may be that the diagonal angle that I am using to apply the planks is not acute enough so that there is too much bend and not enough twist to each plank. The plans call for two layers of overlapping 6mm planking on the sides. I finally decided to use 4 layers of 3mm ply in the last one foot or so to accommodate the bend and it seems to be working well. Has anyone else had this problem and am I doing something wrong? The most foreword plank on the port side shown is two layers of 3mm fastened with screws and raptor staples.
  11. Now for an update. I'm continuing to work on planking the hull. I'm working on both layers and both sides at the same time so it's slow going but at least when I get to the bow, I'm done. The staples for the second layer are working pretty well but don't give any clamping pressure. They can only hold what you can get through clamping first. I found that strategically placed screws/fender washers help a lot. I'll have to go back and backfill the screw holes. Hopefully I'll be done planking and can get on to fairing and glassing in the next few weeks. I'm starting to think about the interior finish. I would like a more finished look on the inside by planking so the stringers cannot be seen. Any suggestions so as to not add too much weight?
  12. Miyot, Thanks for the advice. Finally, a boat is taking shape but I'll be glad when she's turned and I can start on the inside. I'm making sure to get good squeeze out of excess epoxy, as you suggest. The image on the far left is a pre-fitted plank, no glue yet. I'm not going to this effort to skimp on the glue...not worth it! I'll keep the updates coming now that warm weather is back Thanks John
  13. Wow. It's been quite a while since I've posted any notes of my progress. It was cold here in Charleston, like the rest of the country, and working with epoxy in January, February and March was quite difficult. I was out of town for a while and then came home to back surgery and back to work. Anyway, I'm way behind where I had hoped to be at this point. The framing is finished and faired and I started planking the sides recently. The sides are two layers of 6mm okoume ply. I'm putting on the first layer with 3/4" #8 bronze screws and the second layer with raptor staples. So far , so good... Progress is fairly quick.
  14. I tried again today and have the last stringer on and drying. Graham, you are correct, it's Douglas fir. I had plenty of fir and cypress and the fir had better grain and handled better. I didn't even think of using pine. I'll glue the stringer on in a day of two, once dry, and start fairing the framing. I'm really looking forward to getting on with the next step of planking the sides.
  15. I was installing my last stringer tonight. I steamed this 1x1.25" piece for about 80 minutes, it bent on fairly easily and...POW! Broke another. I'll make a new stringer and try again tomorrow. I thought that the quality of the wood looked good, no grain runout, knots, etc. any suggestions?
  16. Thanks for the comments. I finally have the sheer clamp laminated and am installing the last 4 stringers. These "sheer stringers" have a rather severe bend as well as about 40 degrees or so of twist. After breaking a couple of stringers I decided to set up a steam chamber. It's hanging from the overhead rafters. By hanging it on an angle, the water drains from one end and the heat rises through the chamber more evenly. I used 4" metal HVAC duct, wrapped in insulation and fitted with an inexpensive clothing steamer. After steaming each piece for about an hour, they were bent into place and the shape held with multiple clamps. The long clamps are supported to get the right degree of twist. I let them dry for a couple of days before gluing.
  17. So, it warms enough during the day to mix up some epoxy and work on laminating the sheer. It will be 8 or 9 layers thick, one or two at a time with lots of clamps. This part is painfully slow but hopefully I can be done framing by the end of December. No shortcuts here. It will be more fun once planking starts again.
  18. So now I'm using 1/4" laminates and will thicken them up to 3/8 or 1/2 as I build thickness. I should have known better, wasted time and wood but I'm back on track. Winter is setting in making epoxy work difficult, even here in the south. I'll keep you posted and comment/advice is appreciated.
  19. Right now I'm working on the forward part of the sheer. This is the part forward of the "break" that gives the boat it's dramatic bow flare. It is 1x4", about 17' long and has a 90 degree twist and a rather severe bend. The plans call for 1x1" laminates but I say, not possible! Several attempts with 1x1 and 1x1/2 inch pieces resulted in failure even with fairly clear, tight grained wood.
  20. Next, the side stringers, intermediate sheer and sheer clamp were tackled. Douglas fir was used, scarfed together in 26 ft lengths, milled to the appropriate dimensions and a 1/2" round put on the inside edges to facilitate draping of fiberglass later. I did have some problem with breakage and had to watch out for grain runout and other imperfections. Ratcheted tie down straps were the best way to bend these into place and took multiple test fits prior to gluing.
  21. Well, time has flown by with little time for boatbuilding and less time for posting to the forum. My bandsaw gave out and it took forever to get parts, work has been extra busy, hunting season opened...excuses, excuses! I have had time for some work although I'm way behind my initially ambitious schedule. I had hoped to have the hull planked by now but milling and fitting of the side stringers and sheer have been more time consuming than I had thought. Here are some updates since my last post. The next step was fitting of the chine planks. These are 12 mm ply cut to shape and butt glued with doubters. The white batten is a piece of PVC trim moulding from Lowes. These are cheap and make good fairing battens. They come in various thicknesses and stiffness. The chines are overbuilt (too wide) deliberately and will be faired prior to planking the sides.
  22. Makenmend, The staple gun is expensive. I paid $ 215 for the Omer 81P but it shaves a lot of time off of the process. I'm building a boat for the fun of the experience but time is valuable and anything that makes it easier is welcome. The last boat that I built was cedar veneers over strip planking, 3 layers. I fastened them with regular staples shot through plastic banding used for crate packaging. I pulled out thousands of staples. Some broke but every piece was meticulously removed to prevent rust. I had a steroid injection in my shoulder and 6 weeks of occupational therapy. I'm not doing that again! So far, the $215 is worth it! Staples that are proud sand right off with #40 sandpaper. The one thing that I would say is that I seem to be using a bit more epoxy than usual to make sure that there are no voids. Like Miyot said, you have to lean your weight onto the board to get the compression needed. I give him a lot of credit for doing it all with a manual stapler! Thanks, John
  23. Using body weight and a rubber mallet, air bubbles were tapped out and the board positioned. LOTS of staples were used starting in the middle and working to the edges to get squeeze out of the glue. This really works quite well. I understand the concern with staples, no compression is obtained, but they do have impressive pull out strength. Fairing and finishing will be much easier with not having to patch more screw holes. Sorry for the blurry photos but I sure that you get the idea! I finished the starboard side yesterday and will work on the port side today. We're having a rainy weekend so, its boatbuilding weather!
  24. Since my last post I have started applying the second layer of ply to the bottom. This layer is 6mm thick (the first layer was 9mm) and is a little easier to handle. After removing all of the screws the surface was sanded with #40 sandpaper to remove any globs of epoxy. All screw holes were injected with unthickened epoxy then filled with thickened epoxy as the next layer was applied. I had 2 screws break and was able to get the broken pieces out with a broken screw extractor. I decided to use raptor staples and an air gun for the second layer. The piece to be applied was first test fitted. Both surfaces to be bonded were painted with unthickened epoxy, a thickened layer (WEST 403) was then evenly applied to the hull and then the second sheet of ply applied.
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