SteveKos

Wow, what a gorgeous boat! I am just amazed at the beauty of some of Graham's designs. Seeing this take shape and the fantastic finish you have achieved is a real treat!

Finished undercoating today. It's looking nice. There is only one patch on the side where the surface is a bit uneven, but I'll live with that, it's pretty smooth everywhere else otherwise.

What about just priming with an epoxy primer? I bought one which is water thin and was recommended just as a primer under varnish.

It saves paper :-) Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk

Well, tonight I finally got to put paint brush to wood (well mostly wood) with the first coat of undercoat going on. First taped off the gunwale which will be bright finished. First coat of undercoat applied. It's a bit glossier than I thought it would be. For a minute I had to check that it was indeed the undercoat! I should have the hull finished this weekend. I have the rudder assembly mostly complete. Just have to assemble it all and make the tiller. The mast is next and the sprit.

I finally got back to the build after a great few days out in the great Aussie bush. Clean air and campfire smoke does something to the soul... Anyway, I have spent a couple of days making the mast step and rudder assembly. These things have taken quite a few hours, longer than I expected. This little mast step has required a lot of shaping and fitting, and still isn't finished! The rudder shaped and ready to glass. I need to glass it because it is a few milimetres too thin, but glassing will make it stronger so it's worth it. Sanding the hull was noisy and took lots of sanding discs, but I got it nicely finished in a couple of hours' solid going. The undercoat I am using is an epoxy high-build undercoat, and I am told I don't need to apply more epoxy to the hull before I use it. I've used it before and it is very tough, so I don't think I'll be applying another coat of clear epoxy to the hull. I marked out and measured up the keel ready for cutting out and fitting tomorrow. I'll be ready for undercoating by Tuesday.

Hi Hi Bob, yes Easter was a bit ambitious after all. I have been away all this week on a camping trip up in the Flinders Ranges, so things have ground to a halt for a week and a half. I have the main build completed bar a few bits and pieces but it will still be a couple of weeks away I'm afraid. I'll call you to arrange a catch up for the launch if you're interested. PM me your current phone details. Steve.

Just an observation about forums and content. I notice that forums concerned with aggressive activities tend to attract aggressive people and aggressive content. Whereas forums such as this, concerned with a gentler activity - sailing, tends to attract people who are calmer and more interested in helping others than boasting about their achievements. I am a member of a couple of 4wd forums, and it is easy to find flaming and trolling on these. Even the best administrators find it a challenge at times to keep these sites 'clean'. Thanks for maintaining a quality forum. Not just the administrators, but the members here.

Well I think I might go for that setup. I really like the idea of no lines in the cockpit to get in the way. Thanks Peter. Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk

What doesn't work on a spritboom is the sheet led to the centre of the boom and down to cleat near the centre of the boat as the sheet interferes with the sail on one tack. Of course this method works well on a standard boom. Cheers Peter HK Yes, I am aware of that. What I can't quite get without seeing it is how the sheet can be finely controlled being run through two additional blocks, one on the sprit or mast, and one at the base of the mast. Is there any problem sheeting in the sail in a gust with that system? I am thinking that the sail pressure in heavier conditions might make it difficult to haul the sail in compared to the sheet being controlled more directly from the sprit at the clew end. I can see though that the sheet running from the traveler or fixed point on the transom would still take half of the pressure, and you would still get a 2:1 advantage regardless of how the line is run forward. What I am concerned about is the extra friction with 2 extra blocks in the system.

I do understand about the dangers of cleating the sail, particularly in heavy weather or gusty conditions. I am more talking about being able to temporarily use a cleat (and maybe a tiller lock) to allow me to dive into a hatch to fetch some food, or to adjust some gear etc. I wouldn't use any hands-free system for more than a few moments in a small boat, but it is handy to be able to if it is safe, all the same. I was thinking of the position you mention, it just means treading carefully when moving around the boat.

tn_sail teltales.JPGtn_Turning block on mast.JPG See above photos The sheet goes from traveler to end of boom , along boom, down the mast and finishes at a swiveling cleat. In a Spindrift 11 you'd have to then run the sheet back aft to a cleat somewhere- not sure how that would work. Cheers Peter HK Thanks Peter. I see how the system works now. Question: When you want to resume controlling the sheet by hand again do you have to 'unthread' the sheet back through the block, and back again to cleat etc?

Sorry I don't get the second option. How does this system provide enough leverage to hold the sail position? Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk

As I'm nearing completion of my Spindrift 11, my attention is now being drawn to details of how best to set up the rig. I am using a Leg-o-mutton sprit sail, with the mainsheet running from a traveller, to a block off the leech end of the sprit then to hand. But I am thinking of where best to position a cleat for the sheet, and what type. Should I decide on this after sailing a few times to get a feel of where is most comfortable in various conditions before deciding, or do others have suggestions after having done the hard work before me? I don't want to be tied to the helm unable to perform small non-sailing tasks with both hands continually occupied.

Latest pics. I'm finished building the topside. Just fitting the forward hatch then sanding and painting now. I'll finish the rudder this week, and hopefully have the hull finished with another coat of epoxy on the glass, ready to start painting next week. I can see the finish of this project now. It is so satisfying when you see something sitting there that you made with your own hands. It never ceases to thrill! I'm looking forward to getting her (still unnamed) wet in a few weeks.

The beauty of the unstayed mast designs that so many small boats feature is that to stop you can just let go of the mainsheet and let the sail luff as has been said. After that there's a range of things you can do to get home depending on the situation. You can pull the mast as has been said, which isn't easy in a rough sea, or if you can, reef the sail, but that's not any easier with many sail designs. If you have a hoisted sail you can drop the sail and row home, once again depending on the situation. The best bet is to check the weather thoroughly every time you go out, and learn the basics in fairly calm conditions. These days weather services provide very accurate and detailed weather forecasts most of the time, so you can hone your skills gradually over a period of time without getting caught unexpectedly (mostly). If you can tackle stronger conditions in safer waters or with others around to assist that's a good way to learn your boat's and your limits. In light conditions you can get away with anything, but in heavy conditions the margin for error reduces enormously.

By the way Hirilonde, I did manage to get a pine dowel. I've ordered it because it wasn't a standard stock item. I can take the Tasmanian Oak one back to the other supplier for a refund, so that's all sorted out now. I haven't seen the pine one but I'm sure it will be lighter.

Spent a few days making the daggerboard trunk and filling and sanding little gaps and imperfections in the interior areas. Not much to show for alot of work . Over the weekend I test fitted, marked out and cut the slot for the daggerboard. Tonight I cut the hole for the rear hatch, and fitted, filleted and taped the daggerboard trunk in place. After building the daggerboard trunk less one side panel, and testing for the DB fit, I temporary-fitted the trunk in place and marked out the slot. Then I drilled two 20mm holes, jigsawed the slot and sanded to size. Notice the oversized sanding pad. I bought the wrong ones but they work fine on my multi-tool. Marked out the rear hatch. Note the off-centre position. I came up with that idea when trying to work out how I could get a large hatch in place that would open under the tiller. I also want to be able to store folding camp chairs and tables, tent poles etc, and this way I can slide them in. I intend to set the hatch up to open "backwards". That way I can open the lid all the way to make loading and unloading easy. The hatch is a Nuovo twin-lock hatch. It is supposed to be pretty waterproof as the lid covers the frame totally and has a good quality rubber seal. I will test it with my garden hose with a high-pressure nozzle when I'm finished. As long as it's splash-proof I'll be happy. The trunk filleted and taped in place. The slack string was a centre string-line for lining up the trunk to the CL. I used a spirit level to perfectly level the boat horizontally, then the trunk vertically, all dead-on as best I could get it. Here's a bonus shot of my 4wd in action on a recent trip. It is relevant, as it shows the roof-bars I will be using to cartop the boat .

Reminds me of that joke about a guy who put an ad in the personal columns: "Outdoor loving gentleman looking for lady companion with boat. Reply with picture of boat". My wife isn't totally in love with my boat project either, but she is impressed with how it's looking. She isn't a boat person, but she has agreed to go for a sail if it's not too rough when it's finished. As I said earlier, I get home from work around 4:00, so I can get a lot done before the "handbrake" comes home. That way I don't need to spend all my evenings on the boat, but I do try to get out after dinner most nights, even if it's just for half an hour. It's amazing how much I can get done that way. Last night I was thinking through what I still need to do, and Easter may be looking a bit optimistic to have her sail-ready by then. We are going away camping in the Flinders for a few days leading up to Easter (to avoid the crowds!), and that might mean not quite having her ready for that weekend. I don't want to rush things and compromise on the finish quality. Painting involves a lot of prep, and it can take longer than anticipated to get everything just right. Never mind, if it is another week or two that's ok. I was hoping for an Easter launch because in Adelaide that tends to be the time the weather shifts from an autumn pattern to a winter pattern, that's all. I was hoping to get a few sailing sessions in while the weather was still mild to get used to how she handles. I picked up most of my paint and gear yesterday. I have had to order in the 2 pack poly but it will be in before I need it.

Ask for closet rod here in my city and they think you want aluminium tube . I think I have found another supplier who has pine rod in 45mm. I'll check them out today. I hope I can return the one I have, it wasn't cheap and I don't need it for anything else.

Latest pics. Tonight I completed installing the seat and rear storage tops. Finished the final coat on the daggerboard and glassing the trunk sides. I'll finish the daggerboard trunk and install the centre seat this weekend. Next it's fairing the whole cockpit and topside ready for painting and then it's working on the hull and installing the keel strake. I should be at least priming this coming week and be ready to paint by this time next week. I bought the aluminum tubing and dowell for the mast yesterday. I couldn't get fir or anything light in a 45mm dowell so I have an Australian Oak one. It's a bit heavy but i think I will taper it a bit to shed some weight. Still a bit to do but I am on track to have her ready to launch by Easter.

The latest.... Side seat tops on. Daggerboard has 3 coats of epoxy. I didn't glass it after all. I don't think it will need it, and if it gets damaged I will make the laminated strip one I was going to make anyway.

Thanks Howard. The board is a true daggerboard, not a centreboard with a pivot. The plans haven't changed as far as I know, and it is built to spec. The distortion of the lens does make the top section look a bit different in the shot. Actually there are some 2 pack polyesters which are made for long term immersion, but they require many coats to be applied. I will probably glass it as you suggest. The plans don't mention it but I like the idea of the abrasion resistance of the glass, and it will make it more suited to long term immersion. I intend to build a laminated strip board later on so the longevity of this one isn't so much of a concern.

This is my daggerboard ready for finishing. It took about 2 hours of sanding to get it right. I totally covered everything in my garage with sanding dust, and I think I will have to buy my neighbours a good bottle of wine as an apology for the incessant noise . Next is the finishing. I will coat it with three coats of epoxy. I was also thinking of applying 2 pack polyester resin over that for UV stability. Is that a good idea? Will the poly adhere to the epoxy? It probably doesn't really need it because the daggerboard is going to be under the boat most of the time when out, and under cover when at home. Then once I have the finished daggerboard I can finish the daggerboard trunk to fit snuggly.

Latest pics and update: When looking at the last components I needed to complete the build I realised that I was going to be a bit short of ply. I had enough for everything except one piece needed to build the daggerboard. I was thinking about using some 4mm ply I had, and a couple of layers of glass to fill it out to the required thickness, but in the end I managed to buy a half sheet of the same ply as I have used from my supplier. So I now have enough to complete the job and to make all components as specified by Graham. (See Hirilonde, I'm not so head-strong as you might think ) So I have now cut out and am gluing the daggerboard: This Bosch orbital sander is quicker than a plane when used with coarse grit disks. My favourite power tool. I also cut and fine-fitted the main side tank/seat tops. It was a bit of a scary process. I took the trouble to run a centre string line and measured from this to the inside and outside of the seats every 200mm to 'loft' the panels. As it worked out, I only needed to do one side as the measurements were virtually identical and symetrical, which I was very pleased (and surprised) about. Any way I managed to cut out the shape and fit them without too much cold sweat. Test fitting the initial panel cut to the outside from my 'lofting' measurements. Scribing the outside cut. I also love this Ryobi jigsaw! Not very clear shot of the panel after cutting to the scribed line. I then traced the inside cuts from the stringers underneath, allowing for the centre and aft seat protrusions which were measured when working out the position of the daggerboard. These two panels were the hardest to get right, but I'm very happy with the result. Next is going to be finishing off the side seats. finishing the daggerboard, the daggerboard trunk, centre and aft seats, making the rudder assembly, and fitting the aft knees. Then I can start fairing everything in prep for painting and finishing. Then it's making and fitting the mast and the sail, prepping and painting, attaching all the fittings and on the water! I reckon I will have her completed for a shakedown before Easter. I've been thinking of a name. I'm thinking of naming it after my daughter Amy, but other names are up for consideration as well.