john_manchester

Finally got around to developing/scanning some pictures, and thought you might enjoy these. Charlie's photos inspired the rope cradle, although the "gallows" and pickup are my fault. I've turned her twice now this way, without any help, serious exertion or damage. Although I have to admit looking at the photos it's a little surprising it has gone so well (and that my wife is still speaking to me). Don't have the recent pictures but she's currently upside down again, with her centerboard case and motor well, almost ready for that Xynole polyester I bought so many months ago.

Well, I followed Graham's instructions and I think I got it about right. I pulled the cap off after fairing the profile, and haven't put it back on yet. Hard to tell from the pictures, but what do you think? Charlie's pictures of the stem can in handy before cutting it--nice step-by-step, detailed shots. There are a couple of nice shots of the bow floating around too, just beautiful (and very humbling).

Yes, please. john_manchester@hotmail.com

So I do still have quite a bit of material to take off. I guess I can just take my time and apply the old rule "If it looks rigth, it is right"? I haven't attached the stem cap yet--should I do that before fairing the bow profile? I was thinking I'd sort of "rough in" the curve without the cap, and install it after the planking, and then go back over the profile more carefully. I think the forward bulkhead looks wrong in the photo since I just cut off the bottom 1 1/2" straight. After notching for the keel batten and cutting the scuppers, I didn't think there'd be enough material left worth keeping. Thanks very much for helping on this one. I'm sure it's the sort of thing taht's obvious if you can see it or of course if you've done it, but otherwise is tough to conceptualize.

And a side-view

Here's a view from "underneath"

Anybody got any pointers on how to fair off the Princess bow? Maybe some pictures on what it looked like before the planking went on? I'm ready to start fairing the bow on my PS22 in preparation for the planking--except for the sudden realization that I don't know what I'm doing. I took off the corner where the keelson and stem meet with a handsaw, and started trying to get rid of some of the excess width with a belt sander and plane so I can actually get a batten close in enough to fine-tune the bevel on the keelson. I have the idea that the keelson is supposed to taper down from 3 1/2" to 1 1/2" or so at the bow so it blends in with the knee, but I can't tell how far aft to take the taper. I'm going to try attaching some photos of where I'm at. If you think I've already screwed myself, please break it gently since I've already become emotionally attached to the boat.

Thanks very much guys, very helpful and reassuring. Xynole it is!

I'm building a PS22 which calls for 10 oz. fiberglass OR polyester. Parker advocates using Xynole polyester cloth (from Defender) for sheathing instead of fiberglass in "The Sharpie Book". Consensus on the web seems to be that the polyester cloth gives superior abrasion resistance and a higher strength/weight ratio to fiberglass. Defender only sells 4 oz. polyester cloth. It's a little cheaper than 10 oz. fiberglass, will take less resin to wet out and fill, and is supposed to be easier to work with. In the spirit of not letting the perfect be the enemy of the good, is 4 oz. polyester cloth a reasonable alternative to 10 oz. fiberglass? If so, would it be advisable to double-up on just the bottom?

Thanks guys. Sounds like "total cost of ownership" is relevant here. I'll use mahogany. Both--name is Manchester, and I live there, as will the boat on a trailer. I got my plywood from Maine Coast Lumber, good prices and very knowledgeable and friendly staff. I nosed around the warehouse but must have only seen part of their lumber selection (they've got a lot of plywood). I'll give them a call.

I'm just starting PS22 hull #19, fearlessly but unfortunately with few other qualifications. Hope you all won't mind me poking my head in from time to time with a few dumb questions. Question #1: Can I go ahead and use a regular old KD spruce 2x6 framing stud from the local lumber yard for the stem and knee (digging through the pile of course to find a nice one)? The plans call for "stock", which I take to mean pretty much whatever I can get in a quick stop on the way home from work. But reading around has got me thinking I should find a nice piece of clear fir with vertical grain, which I'll have to order (I'm in Southern New Hampshire, and haven't seen fir studs for the past couple of years). Guys also seem to like mahogany. There's good availability on (I think Honduras) mahogany at the local yards since it's getting more use in porches and decks. Is it worth the extra expense of fir or mahogany, or doesn't it really matter--do you get enough strength from the stem by glueing on the plywood and cap? Question #2: What should I use for the stem cap? The local yards stock finish and Primelock pine--are those materials OK? Or does the boat need something a little harder for strength? Many thanks- John Manchester