oldpropfan

Thank you Jeff. To clarify, or maybe confuse the question, these are the choices of Rustoleum I could find in my area. All are oil based enamels so I think any of them would the job? This is what I meant by the white can, the one that been out for a long time. Can be thinned with mineral spirits or acetone, available in about 12 colors. This is the satin, only thinned with acetone, 6 colors only. Is this what you meant by the gray can? Not sure what this one is thinned with. About a dozen colors, a few more if you buy the gallon size. Thanks, Al

Is the regular Rustoleum in the white can usable for finishing? Reason I ask is because it's the only thing I can find besides the Rustoleum Satin. The regular, available in many colors, only mentions painting metal on the can. The satin, only available in 5-6 colors, mentions using on multiple materials. Is it the same paint just in different containers or is the formulation actually different? Thanks for any help and info. Al

Been awhile but finally ready to shrink and coat. Made a paddle during the weeks our temps were running in the high 90's to over 100 deg, turned out pretty well for a first time effort I think. Weight is now 31.5 lbs., any approximations on how much weight 3 or 4 coats of oil based paint will add? Question about oil based paint, how much do you thin the first coat and what's the best thinner to use?

That is some beautiful work! Did you do the seat in individual strips also?

Could I impose on you or any of the other Shad builders to post pictures of the front and back of the cockpit so I can see what it should look like? In the meantime I'll see if can get the frame back on the strongback and check for lean. Thanks, Al

Sorry, should have mentioned it's the Shad. Just checked the measurements and from the aft face of 6'11" to the aft face of 9'9" is 34" exactly.

Not exactly sure where to center coaming forward/aft on boat, any suggestions as to best location? This is with coaming centered pretty much on the top of each frame. Forward the contact point is between the lashings on the center stringer, aft it contacts the stringer just aft of the lashings. This is with the coaming forward of the lashings on the aft frame, it seems to me like too much of the forward frame and stringer protrude into the cockpit. This is with the coaming aft of the lashings on the forward frame, not as much frame protrusion. The backband or seatback, depending on which way my son decides to go with the seat type, should prevent getting hit by the stringer ends (they also need to be trimmed, but first we have to get the coaming located). The coaming isn't pretty, I know, but it's only a test piece to check size as I am thinking about going with a more keyhole style coaming for my Nimrod that is also shorter in length. Finally found a local source for BB and the coaming will be cut out of that. Have to tell my son he might want to redo the floors also, not exactly the best looking pieces of ply from the extras pile. Thanks for any help, Al

Deleted and question sent via email instead. Al

Looking forward to seeing your new design come together, always liked the looks of the Greenland style boats. Also hope you can find the time to maybe finish off that last 5%, I'll buy the plans, have wood set aside for it. But I understand working on something that gives you that happy feeling, stopped some projects myself because the joy just wasn't there. Al

Thank you, and Jeff does indeed design some very nice boats. A question on frame finishes. Can I put a coat of BLO on the frame while I am waiting for my shipment of Tung oil or are the two products not compatible? Had to order from Spirit Line as I couldn't find any locally but I'd like to at least get something on the frame to protect it. Al

Lashing done except for the floors so time for some FROGS and a FRIT. Frame In Tree: Seventeen feet doesn't seem that long when the boat is horizontal, kind of startling when you stand it up on end though. Like the look and lines of this boat so much that I've decided not to build a Curlew and drew up the offsets for the Nimrod instead. Weight for the frame without floors is 19.5 lbs, is that about normal?

From the book the widest frame by a hair should be the one at 9'3" with a width of 22 1/2", next would be the 6'5" frame at 22 6/16" width. Al

Thank you Action Tiger and Jeff. Good soft woods are hard to find here in reasonable lengths, having to scarf 3 or 4 pieces to get a 19 ft stringer seemed excessive. We started lashing last night and decided to start with the keel for the same reason you mention but then just worked our way up the frames. Only two frames lashed down thought so not too late to change the order. Lashing is actually kind of relaxing, surprisingly, once you get into the rhythm of it.

And a question regarding lashing. Any recommendation as to order, ie, gunwales first or bilge stringers, or keel? Figured we would start in the middle and then alternate frames from bow to stern to keep the tension even on the boat. Thank you for any help, Al

Question about the stringer that runs from 9'9" to the bow of the boat. Is it supposed to be a straight run or is it normal to have to pull it down into the notches on 11'7" and 13'7" forming a curve from the cockpit to the bow. From the side view on the plans the curve looks correct but I just want to make sure. Stringers are VG Western Hemlock, only wood I was able to find that had a nice tight and straight grain. Probably not a common choice but I was able to find quarter sawn 1x2" in 8 and 10 ft lengths with clear, straight grain. Wood is dried and very smooth finished. Not the best for rot resistance but I figure after oiling the frame and the fact that the water will stay mostly on the outside of the boat it shouldn't be an issue. Would like to hear feedback on this choice from the more experienced builders on this forum. Other choice was VG Douglas Fir but not as straight grained. Thanks, Al

But my son and I finally got going on our kayak builds. First up is his Shad, the plans I bought a year and 3 or 4 months ago. Looks like pics are out of order, bottom one should be first. Only used bungees at the start while we clamped and levelled the frames to the 4 stations then switched over to zip ties, seems to work really well. Got the last of the frames in after these pics were taken, had to stop for dinner and a band of passing thunderstorms. Now on to the lashing. After we pull this frame from the strongback I'll start on my Curlew drawn up from the offsets in Jeff's book. Beautiful looking boat so far, can't wait to get on the water.

In the building guide it says to use a clamp or two in the cockpit area to hold the fabric when using loose weave polyester. Assuming the 8 oz fabric won't work with sewing bow and stern pockets to hold it. Al

Is this the boat that you were doing as your take on the Iggy lines plan or another boat entirely? Looks very nice and like it could be fitted with hatches for some weekend camping. You could name it the "Kitaa", which is Greenlandic for West Greenland, a nod to the design's origins. Al

Looking at the cost of ready made bags online, and none of them are sized for your boats specifically, I would say $75-100 for a set of bags made to size for your boats would be a good deal. I'll need some by spring and will buy earlier if they're available.

An Iggie!! I'll buy plans if you continue on with it, hope you do. Many kayaks trace their ancestry to this boat. What were you thinking of for the final dimensions? I have a couple different sets of drawings for this boat, including a S&G version, but have been working on a set of patterns based on the 1921 SW Greenland boat that Norman Skene drew the lines for. I have the frames and gunwales cut for the Shad I'm building for my son and the Curlew I'm doing for myself from the offsets in your book but now it's too cold outside to finish building ( I have no garage ). Cutting frames for another boat or two will keep me occupied during the winter and in the spring we can have a lashing and skinning frenzy then we'll have plenty of boats to play with!

Some info on detachable skegs starting on page 149 of Cunningham's 'Building the Greenland Kayak'. Will have to give one a try when I get time to actually finish my kayaks.