MikeY

Hmmm, haven't seen plans yet. Are the hatches cut out after construction of the top, or are they built in, so to speak? On my ATs, you cut the hatch out (or not) after the kayak is close to complete. The hatch itself is constructed of the cutout. So that's my knowledge base for kayak hatches to date.

Hola, Looking to build a kayak from plans. I've built two others previously, a Pygmy Arctic Tern 17 with bulkhead and hatches, and an Arctic Tern 14 with no bulkheads/hatches. Love'em! I take them out directly through the surf to play in the ocean. I've decided that I prefer no hatches and bulkheads. I built the hatched kayak first, and have taken in water in "heavy waves and high seas" in the ocean. Although I think I've solved the leak problem, to be safe I use float bags in both fore and aft compartments. If water gets in, I have no way to pump it out. The second boat has float bags shoved into the bow and stern. The bags also serve as dry bags, so I'm comfortable with taking trips and not having hatches. The second boat is *much* lighter, and not just due to reduced size. At the low weights of these boats, a few pounds means significant percentage reductions in weight. So has anyone built a diva without the bulkheads, using possibly internal ribs instead? I assume the bulkheads provide structural integrity and stiffness too, along with providing the shape for the deck to form over. Thoughts?

Thanks. I am actually finishing up a kayak, finished bright, and am looking at the issue for that standpoint. I have plans for a CS 20, to be started on once the kayak is afloat.

So if I am glassing the hull, do I need to provide a thick enough layer of epoxy over it so I can sand it to be as smooth as a baby's bottom? So you can't feel the glass weave? what is "common practice"? Pros and cons? Obviously, more epoxy = more weight = more cost.

Hola, First of many, many questions, I'm sure. I purchased plan set 71, and hope to start cutting wood this spring/summer. Need to finish the second of two Pygmy Arctic Terns (full size and 14 footer). Been poring over the plans. First question... 1. For the fibreglass that connects the sides to the bottoms forming the butterfly, is the fibreglass on the exterior sanded smooth/away in final finishing? How is a raised spot there avoided? 2. Do many people apply fibreglass to the entire exterior hull?

Ahhh, didn't know there was such a thing. Way ahead of me. Neat site.

I had this vision in my mind of the keel being made out of D-cell batteries. Some fairing fore and aft (use AAA's?). Have your cake and eat it too. Of course then you'd have to try to find a way to harness your excess wind to recharge them, via dragging a prop with an alternator setup. Thinking as I'm typing here...one could build a modular add-on keel to a boat that would contain batteries, prop, and motor/generator all in a single bolt-on package. That'd be a cool project. Maybe just the generator and deployable prop on the keel, use a standard troll motor. :wink:

My first post on the forum. Thanks for letting me in! Just an out-of-the-box thought. I work at a research lab where we build undersea vehicles. We have one that is powered by over 9,000 (yep, that many) D-cell alkaline batteries. They could be rechargables. They are slotted in tubes for easy placement. The D-cells allowed the designers to fit them into the form of the vehicle much better than larger cells. Also, there was a DARPA program on micro air vehices that achieved it's goals by making the batteries part of the structure too. Diameter 38 inches Length 28 feet, 6 inches Displacement 10,000 pounds Range 500 nautical miles at 4 knots Payload Volume 10 cubic feet (approximately) Power Source (initial) Alkaline Batteries (quantity 9,216) http://www.arl.psu.edu/capabilities/us_sea_syseng.html