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Wes Kisting has a great website dedicated to his CS20 build. I've referred to it many times during my build. The address is http://www.roguepaddler.com/coresound20.htm I've also been blogging on my build at http://goodfootsailing.blogspot.com/ If you post specific questions here you will typically find numerous helpful answers pretty quickly. Good luck on the build and make sure to post lots of pictures!

A lot of small dinghies use centerboard gaskets to seal the opening at the bottom of the trunk. There is purpose made gasket material, like this; http://www.westcoast...ult/85049.html. You can also use heavy Dacron tape for this. Instead of just applying one strip and slitting it, you can apply a wide piece to either side of the slot and double it over on itself to create two, rounded edges that meet in the middle. I'm considering doing this on my CS20. If I do, I will probably epoxy a strip of 3/8" plywood to either side of the slot so I can screw down a metal strip over the outside edge of the gasket material without screwing holes into the actual hull. The metal covering strip is how the gasket is mounted on my C15. Good luck with it. Post pics when you decide on your solution. Pete

Looks like a blast! That grin speaks volumes. You may want to reconsider sheeting to the normal main position though. That angle has the sheet pulling the aft end of the sprit forward which in strong winds will put a serious bending stress on it. I've sheeted this way on a CS17 in high winds and the first time we tried to go hard to weather, the sprit snapped like a toothpick. Better to sheet aft to the mizzen blocks. Or better yet, add new sheeting points for the reefed position. Looks like you are getting things dialed-in nicely. Well done!

Another thing to consider is that adding shrouds to a mast will add A LOT of compression stress to the mast and step. Without beefing things up considerably I don't think you would be able to get anywhere near enough shroud tension to accomplish what you want, and you would be dramatically increasing the likelihood of a mast failure.

Hi Frank, Feel free to add my blog to the list. The link is: http://goodfootsailing.blogspot.com/ Cheers, Pete B

I saw that article. Nicely done! Graham's boats have been getting lots of nice press lately. He deserves it. Pete B

Hi Terry, I'm undecided on whether I will do the entire TX200. Most likely I will head down there that week and cruise around a bit with the intention of hooking up with the 200ers at some point. I'd like to spend a little more time exploring Matagorda Island perhaps over by Army Hole. I will be posting here when it gets closer and the plans firm up. Pete

I'm planning to roll and tip an oil-based porch paint. I used this on my centerboard and was pleasantly surprised at how well it self-leveled. And after curing it seems to be pretty tough stuff. So that is why I'm wondering how far I need to go with the fairing and surface prep. I know if I were spraying a two-part linear polyurethane I would have to get the hull MUCH smoother. But with porch paint maybe not so much, right?

You got that right Ray! Just today we hit our 40th consecutive day of 100+ degree temps. This is not the right time of year for this kind of work, but at least I have decent shade. Pete

Hi all, I just wrote a somewhat lengthy blog post on the fairing process for GoodFoot (CS20 #63). It's my first big fairing project and I'm pretty much winging it, so any feedback on what I'm doing right or wrong would be a great help. Here are a few pics to give a general idea. The blog has more pics and a fairly detailed description of my process. The blog is here: http://goodfootsailing.blogspot.com/2011/08/fairing.html Thanks, Pete

There is a more complete description of the process at the blog. http://goodfootsailing.blogspot.com/ Thanks for all the input. I'll post more pics as things progress. Pete

A few, more pics

Well I ended up with plenty of help. Seven guys including myself. So it went off without a hitch. Here's a few pics.

Yes, I did notice from the outset that the Hydrotek was heavier. It is also considerably stiffer. When unfolding the hull and placing the forward bulkhead, I had to recut it (the bulkhead) because the bottom seam wouldn't spring open as far a it does with okoume. Not a huge difference, but noticable. The upside of the additional weight is how tough this stuff is. A had a few small scraps of the stuff sitting in an old wheelbarrow through the winter. They got soaked, frozen solid and thawed multiple times and still look pretty much perfect. No delamination at all. So I guess I'm just gonna deal with the extra weight by trying no to carry too much stuff with me when sailing. Thanks for all the replies. I will post pictures of the roll-over party next week. Cheers, Pete

Thanks Joe. Yeah, the photos are not the most recent. The seat tops are in now. I had the same thought on the vulnerability of the sides at the inwale when flipping. I may add some athwartship bracing at deck level to help shore things up a bit. How many people did it take for your flip? BTW, She's looking great. I hope I get to sail with you some day Pete B

I'm scheduled to flip the hull of my CS20 this weekend. So far the cockpit has the bulkheads, centerboard trunk, and seats fully installed. So my question is this; when we lift the boat off the cradle is it strong enough to set down in the yard before flipping? Or should we plan to lift and flip all in one shot? Right now the boat sits in a cradle at the forward and aft interior bulkhead positions with a support block under the middle near the aft end of the centerboard trunk. I will need to remove the hull-supports from the cradle and replace them with straight supports for the inwales to rest on. You can kinda see it in the attached pic. I'm sure my flipping crew would rather not stand around holding the boat while I do this. The hull is made of hydrotek which is a bit heavier than okoume, but not drastically so. Any thoughts or suggestions are appreciated. More project pics here: http://goodfootsailing.blogspot.com/

Yes, Hot Canary had a lifting, ballasted board, not a swing keel. You can see the slot for it in the build video (about half way through) http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?128006-i550-Sport-Boat-time-lapse-building-video I wonder if the boat wasn't quite a bit more twitchy without the full keel in the windy/rough conditions they had.

Congratulations! When I saw the Gougeon brothers working on that i550, I thought they would have class 4 pretty well clinched. Great job showing what Graham's boats can do. I can't wait till mine is on the water. I'm making slow but steady progress and hope to have Goodfoot in the water early this summer. Pics of the build at http://goodfootsailing.blogspot.com Pete B

Dan, I'm building a Core Sound 20. I did buy the aluminum from Speedy Metals. They had a great price and were able to ground ship the 12 foot lengths that I needed. Apparently, the problem with shipping the 12 foot lengths is that the .065 wall thickness of the tubing I needed makes them prone to shipping damage. For a bit extra Speedy Metals built a shipping crate for the 4 tubes. Everything showed up as promised and in good shape. I'm on the road right now, but I'll post some pictures of the crate on the blog when I get home. (http://goodfootsailing.blogspot.com/) Pete

Thanks guys. All useful tips. Wes, I think what you have is closest to what I'm picturing. I like the idea of a removable box so I'll be stealing that idea Do you have permanent running lights? Cheers, Pete

I'm considering putting a very minimal 12 volt system for some LED navigation lights and maybe a couple cockpit lights on my CS20. Anybody done this on a Core Sound? What I'm picturing is a small gel cell in the rear compartment and a small switch box on the rear cockpit bulkhead just below the coaming. This would make it easy to reach while at the tiller. Thoughts? Pete

I just spoke with a guy at http://www.speedymetals.com who quoted me a price for a 12 foot length of T 6061 T6 aluminum tubing 3" by .065 wall thickness. Price was just over 60 bucks! I was sure I heard him wrong so I confirmed that it was in fact 6061 t6 of the correct dimensions. He confirmed it. I'm a bit of a skeptic when it comes to finding a product at about 30% of the price it can be found anywhere else. Anyone out there done business with this firm? Am I missing something here or should I buy this stuff before they figure out how much money they are losing. Any input is appreciated. Pete B

Scott, I would consider putting a bunch at evenly-spaced intervals about a third of the way back from the leading edge. After a while, you would see which ones were the first to react to changing angles and could remove the others. Cheers, Pete

More progress on the CS20. Steamed and installed the inwales. Fun project and finally got to use all those clamps I've been hoarding over the years. More on the how the day went over at the blog. http://goodfootsailing.blogspot.com/ Pete B

Tim, Graham said that I should not worry about forcing the hull panels to the bulkhead shape. Rather, it's okay to re-scribe the bulkhead to the panels. Apparently the Hydrotek I'm using has different bending characteristics than the Okoume Graham uses. John, the Edmond contingent is always welcome. Give me a buzz if you head down this way and I'll have the grill going. Cheers, Pete