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Rune Forsberg

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Everything posted by Rune Forsberg

  1. Hi! Instead of SS or alu stripe I did a mix consisting of thickened epoxy and 60grit carborundum powder. An enhancement to this I guess would be to mix in some chopped glassfiber...but for me it has held together well. I read about this on a kayak renters site, he repaired the bottoms after a couple of seasons of landing in gravel and so on. I've never liked the idea of putting alot of effort in making a waterproof hull and then drilling holes for epoxy "nuts" or just screwing something into the hull under water. BTW These mixes of epoxy and carborundum are also used for repairing pump housings in sewage treatment plants (sand/water) so it should be quite tough! But the epoxy-rope ought to be very good. /rune file://localhost/var/folders/9T/9Tdo9aRUEmKwejeFQBYXAU+++TI/-Tmp-/com.apple.mail.drag/DSC00262.jpg
  2. Hi! When I made my drain for the main mast I used a technique I think I read here on the forum... Anyway I used a piece of rubber hose (i think it was for gasoline, a sturdy piece of reinforced hose) it was approx 1/2" diameter. First I glassed the bottom of the plywood base and put my mast-tube on top with a hole in it for the hose to enter, drilled a hole in the hull and placed the hose through hull and mast-tube. Then I put alot of thickened epoxy around the hose and a couple of layers of glassfibre. Of course I epoxied the mast-tube in place aswell. Waited for a couple of days so the epoxy was cured and then pulled the out hose and voila! a tube/channel was there! When pulling the rubber hose you decrease the diameter making it easier to get loose, it was quite a task to pull it out but it worked very well. Be sure to have a hose that will stand up for the pull! Perhaps one could put some wax of some sort or some release agent on it to make it release easier. Btw nice build you have going on, thanks for the pics! Best regards Rune
  3. Hi! Really nice build! About the material qualitites of stainless steel...you got the right stuff; AISI316L is acidproof stainless steel which is regarded as the best "normal" SS. The best resistance against rust is the 316L followed by 316 then the 304L and the 304 being the least strong against rust. I'm working with design of sewage treatment plants, and we use quite alot of SS in our plants. When embedding SS-stuff in concrete we always use 316L. /rune
  4. Hi! This is how I did it, after the holes for bailer and screws I made a recess in the hull for the baseplate and a layer of glassfiber/epoxy.
  5. Hello Wojtek! I'm in the mast part of my project now...(finally) And I have found a place in Sweden that has a tube which is 60x3 the quality is 6082 (supposed to be around 15% stronger than 6061). It's not the intended 63x2,1or3,175 but hope it's near enough. I haven't got a price for it yet but it's in their standard supply so it shouldn't be too pricey (I hope). They don't have a suitable upper tube so I'll go for wood, as many others here have done. Standard length is 6m so split in two that would be 3m alu and 3m wood. Should work fine don't you think? All the best Rune
  6. Hi! I've decided to build wooden masts aswell, mostly due to the difficulties of finding the right aluminium qualities, but also a wooden mast on a wooden boat - it just can't be wrong, can it? I'm planning on doing the masts hollow for a halyard and to incorporate a groove (in wood) for a boltrope sail to slide into the mast. The sails will be of slab-reef type but have vertical battens for making it possible to store the sails wrapped around the masts. So far this is my plan, I hope it will work... As for the 3-piece mast this means you will have a slip-on sail and then you have the reefing thing to consider (easy reef - bad performance) and I recall someone stating that having multi-piece masts only meant that you have more pieces to look after... btw I'm building a CS-17 (just glassed the hull) in Sweden, and the raid in Finland does look interesting! best of luck with your decisions/build! /rune
  7. Hi! I'm currently building a CS-17, and begun thinking about the sailtracks too. Not that my build has developed that far but anyway... Sailtracks are not easy to find here in Sweden either where I'm building but Iwas thinking perhaps to use a luffrope(?) and a track from a camperwagon(?) you know where they connect tents to the wagon. Could this work? Or perhaps a guiding profile for hanging/gliding closet-doors could do? /rune
  8. Hi Tim and Greg! Thanks for replying, I haven't been on the computer for a couple of days... Well weather in sk
  9. Hi Peter! You are probably right the glassing doesn't add much structural stregth...I just wanted to get rid of all possible water retainers (easier to clean, etc) I'll just go for them stringers as the design says. /rune
  10. Hi! I've started building a CS-17, and what a nice and rewarding job this is! I'm building in Sk
  11. Hi! I was wondering what happened to the CS15? I've been in and out on this and the B&B yachts site on a every other day basis, hoping for the plans to come up! Hope there's no problems with her, she seems to be perfect for me... If there is a BOM available I would really want it so I can start look around for material. By the way as I'm here quite often reading your posts and replies I must say it's a very nice atmosphere here and I enjoy it alot! And there's so many tips and tricks allover the place! Thanks Rune Forsberg
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