paxtonm

Got it! I tied off one frame, and it all went together from there. It even looks like a boat. Thanks everyone.

Hello, I had today off, and had every expectation of getting the stringers onto the frames of the Vardo, but the gunnels are fighting me. Broke one frame, and whenever I feel like I am getting close, things come unraveled. I wonder if any of you have lashed just one frame to anchor things. I would lash the 6-6 frame, if I go that way, then bungee the rest. I'm letting the gunnels sit on the frames as best I can overnight, hoping they will relax a bit as they take the curve. The problem is with the twist to the outside -- the cedar just doesn't want to do that. I have to recut the 8-11 frame that I broke, then get back on this. I've really been enjoying this, but I am feeling outmatched right now. Just FYI, I used lots of bungees, and added bicycle inner tubes for more muscle as well.

Makes sense. The tabs and slots fore and aft mate perfectly (well, they would if my woodworking skills were better, but that's what rasps are for). I've worked quite a bit in publishing, including assembling some projects involving more than a dozen author/contributors. Believe me Jeff; I feel your pain. Onward with the project. Mark

I'm going at a snail's pace, but having fun. Stringer stock comes home tomorrow. Tonight I went through the instructions cd (again) and although Jeff mentions that Vardo's bow section isn't mated to a frame, when I look at the layout for Vardo in the CD, and all the books in fact, frame measurements appear to begin with the stern at zero. Vardo's first frame is at 3-6, well beyond where it might mate with the stern but the last frame, at 13-9, would mate with the bow section for a 17-foot both. More confusing, plans called for a mortise-tenon type arrangement in both end frames and the bow and stern sections. This Saturday, I'm inclined to start at the stern section (13-9) and go from there, figuring out bow and stern last of all. How far off base am I? Is it the bow that mates to the forwardmost frame after all? Thanks for the help. Mark

Thanks everyone. Maybe I will try 18 footers. The purchase is tomorrow, then ripping and rounding over corners. Lashing starts Saturday.

Hello everyone, Even though I can get WRC long enough to not need scarf joints, the thought of ripping 18-foot planks on my table saw gives me pause. I'm working in a pretty tight space, and that's a lot of wood to have to feed. So, I'm thinking about buying 10-foot planks, cutting those to the right dimensions for gunnels and stringers, and scarfing them all up. I'm probably over-analyzing (first time doing SOF) but I've been wondering about the best orientation for the scarf joints, or if it even matters. Take the gunnels: if they're 1.5 inches high and 5/8 inch thick, would it be best to have the scarf run diagonally across the long side or the short? I'm thinking long side as it would be a longer glue joint, and the wood would bend mostly across the scarf. I've already done up a jig, using Jeff's suggestions. Thanks in advance, Mark

Agree with Hirilonde about the transom, but I very much favor the nearly plumb bow, both for practical purposes (longer waterline) and aesthetics. Have you set on the length/beam?

Hi Jeff, Norbert, Can I get a copy, too? Mine does not indicate deck beam notches. Thanks. Mark

Nice! Was the ZAR poly the water-based or oil-based stuff?

Hi Jeff, I was thinking of a sailing skiff, skerry or whitehall type boat, something that would take a centerboard trunk and a kickup rudder, suitable for two. At my age, performance is less a factor than comfort. I'd like to be able to row it, of course, and I'd like to to retain the advantages (weight, buildability) of SOF. I guess kind of picnic boat?

Hi, We still have an older Hobie 16, and it is a blast, but the mast is a beast to rig. We would love a sailing-rowing boat a little bigger than Dave Gentry's Shenandoah Whitehall, maybe around 15 feet. That would get much more use than the Hobie. In fact, we would sell it to make the change. Probably we would prefer a sprit rig, just for shorter spars. I think it's cool you thought to ask!

Thanks Jeff. I was pretty sure about the gauge blocks. I hesitated at starting from the stern with the frame measurements because the instructions seem to indicate I should start from the bow, but stern it is! If a frame indicates, say 1 foot-2, then it would be that distance from the tip of the stern, right? I'm just looking for a zero point, and in going over things with a tape measure last night, that's what it appears to be. Thanks as always, Mark

Hi, Warning: the dumbest questions in several months follow. The instruction manual calls for bracing the keel with gauge blocks, but the forms seem to be pretty precisely laid out to eliminate this. Am I missing something? Also, Vardo plans seem to indicate that the frames are laid out from the stern, in that the frame with the lowest measurement is obviously cut for the stern and vice versa. Finally, am I to set the frames from the end of the keel and stern? I'm trying to fit a 17-foot boat on a 16-foot strongback if possible due to limited space. Thanks everyone. This has been very helpful so far. Mark

Went to Jackel Enterprises in Watsonville (southern Santa Cruz County, CA) today. When I got to this nondescript building, I didn't know what to expect. I was floored. I picked up a sheet of 12 mm marine meranti ($89), and looked over Western red cedar boards. They've got tons of rough stock, waiting to be milled. I saw bunches of tight grained, clear planks. Lots of beautiful hardwoods, too. The staff was helpful and interested in what their customers are doing with their wood. Apparently, a "green" business, too. I have no affiliation with these guys, but I was pretty impressed. http://www.jackelenterprises.com/. I was told the owner used to build mandolins, so he's fond of fine woods. One of the guys even asked if I'd like vertical or otherwise for the grain orientation once I get to the gunnels/keel/stringers. Frankly, I'm not sure, so I thought I'd ask. Cheers, Mark

Good call, Jeff. I've been running back and forth to the laptop in the kitchen. Sometimes, paper IS better. Thanks for the constant improvements.

Unless I am mistaken, the thinking behind oil finishes is that they are not impervious. Aleuts and Inuits didn't have varnish, but since the boats don't live in the water, it is a non-issue. The wood bits need to breathe and dry. The risk with varnish is considerable. Areas that abrade or otherwise are compromised will permit water entry that will not quickly evaporate due to the varnish vapor barrier. Hope that helps. Mark

Anybody tried them for the bow tiedown strap? I wonder how they would be around salt and fresh water? Any tips? Thanks, Mark

That's exactly the blade I'm using. Stuck a new one in with a zero clearance insert and gave the saw a good tuneup in preparation for making the cuts today. Thanks everyone, and Merry Christmas!

Hi, I'm about to start ripping a beautiful chunk of maple, and I'm confused about the thickness of laminations. In his book, Jeff says 3/16ths, but elsewhere the thickness is given as 3/32nds. I don't want to turn any more of this wood into sawdust than I have to! Thanks in advance. Mark

Found a local source for 12 mm marine meranti at 89.95 a sheet. They seem like good people, and since fir was close to $60, and not great looking, I'll probably just swallow hard and shell out the extra $30.

Thanks Doug. The local place (Santa Cruz) is apparently no more. I'll check up in San Jose, where Southern Lumber is listed. From the web site, it looks promising. Now, anybody know if doug. fir marine is OK?

Greetings, The only sources I can find for plywood in this neck of the woods stock only marine grade A-B or A-C douglas fir. None of the outlets carry or can order okoume, sapele and the like. Ordering that stuff delivered is punitively expensive. Nobody seems to have heard of Russian Baltic birch. I see on the Web that doug. fir is only recommended if it's going to be glassed over. Can anyone help with either a source in the greater SF-Monterey Bay area, or an assurance that doug. fir is OK? Thanks!

I'm hoping to laminate the coaming for a Vardo this weekend, using maple and possibly a strip of walnut if I have enough. My question: the CD instructions and book are great about describing how to laminate, and the dimensions of wood plys, but overall, how many linear feet are needed for a typical coaming, roughly? I always end up finding a use for bits of hardwood, eventually, but I'm trying to keep track of costs on this project pretty carefully. Thanks as always. You guys are a wealth of ideas and experience.

Sorry I wasn't clearer. But you guys answered my question. In Jeff's book, the illustrations depict mortises with rounded inside corners, along with stringers mating to them with all four corners rounded. Jeff described it perfectly: round the skin sides, and go square to square where wood to wood joints are. Thanks!

Hi, I'm poring over Jeff's excellent book after studying the Vardo plan set I ordered. My drawings show mortises with square shoulders, but the illustrations in the book show recesses that are radiused. Just a guess, but since Jeff routs the stringer corners with a 1/4 inch shoulder that the entire goal is to ensure as close to 100 percent stringer to frame contact as possible. Also, without a LOT of chisel work, I'm not sure how to get absolutely square corners on the mortises using a jigsaw. I'm at the beginning of this, so I apologize in advance if this question seems ridiculous. Thanks.