Leaderboard

Thank you, Frank, for all your work here!

No real progress to report other than ripping and scarfing a bunch of strips. As of tonight, I have 6 20' strips and 2 12' strips all at 1.5" x .75" which I will process to the chine and side stringer dimensions. I may attempt to keep the inwales at .75" but we'll see after they all cure for a week. Epoxying all those strips was a challenge but it went pretty well. The only real troubleI had was the limited space to do that in so I got creative with my workstation which was far from level so a lot of shims were used. Hopefully by this time next week, I'll have something photo worthy to show, we'll see how it goes.

After calming down from discovering my mistake, I went back out and looked things over again. I will have to cut the relief in the sole, it is bending the frame between the outboard stringer and the cutout since everything was cut correctly. That's why the frame isn't sitting right on the keel. I'm glad I looked it over again, it's an easy enough fix. At least I didn't start gluing up the framework, that could have made the corrections much more difficult. I have heard it said that the hallmark of a master craftsman is not avoiding mistakes, but knowing how to skillfully fix or conceal them. I sure ain't no master but I'm really good at fixing my screw ups and making them look pretty in the end.

Dave, it's true. I sail with a lot of other boats who are often "dragging a#$". Skeena is big enough I only need to get to the mizzen, and I pack gear to compensate when I have crew. I do have a bubble level on the thwart just to be sure. The problem I try to address is side to side trim. My constantly evolving data says keeping Skeena sailing on one of the flat panels slightly healed is fastest in light conditions. I think it's probably due to keeping the sails full and driving, and sometimes I find being on the leward side is too much heal and on the windward not enough.