Design modifications

[PAR]

Telescopic things that bend, tend to not be telescopic for very log. Aluminum would seem the logical choice, buy finding well fitting aluminum tubes might be challenging.

[Howard]

  On 7/31/2014 at 1:59 AM, Ambler said:

 

  On 7/31/2014 at 12:34 AM, PAR said:

Make a tiller extension, which can be fold back when not in use. DuckWorks has the hardware and it's cheap. All you need is a 3/4" or 1" dowel and you're good to go.

Good information PAR, thanks. I'm pondering the relative pros & cons of the tiller "stick" vs a straight telescopic extension; would be interested to hear others' thoughts & - especially - experience. I guess the size as well as the use of the boat  would have a bearing on the which to choose.

 

 

Ambler:

 

I have something similar to this on my current boat, a 17 footer:

 

http://www.ronstan.com/marine/range.asp?RnID=072

 

Mine is a Forespar, but is similar. I'm about 6 foot, and have a long wingspan, and almost never use it to helm the boat. A sailing buddy, who is about a foot shorter than me, whose arms are not long enough to reach the centerline of the boat, let alone long enough to push the tiller beyond that, almost always uses the "hiking stick" when he is on the tiller.

 

I added a dowel rod hiking stick to my nesting Spindrift 10n, but rarely use it since I mostly sail sitting on the bottom of the boat, with leg braced against the far side. But if I wanted to hike out, I'd have to use the extension.

 

So, in short, it is mostly about the boat, you, and the different conditions you may encounter.  All three will factor in to wanting to use a tiller extension, or not.

[Howard]

A couple issues I'd suggest for anyone wanting to modify a Spindrift. First, if you intend to row at all, find a way/place to put some cleats on the sole of the boat so you have something for your feet to brace against when you row. You will want your arms, legs, back and all related parts pulling, and unless you have something for your feet to brace against, that ain't going to happen. Without foot braces, it is simply your arms pulling against your butt friction on the seat.

 

Second, modify the height of the oarlocks to your own personal physique. When the oars are held level on the thwarts, you want them to hit you about belly button high. Lower than that and the oars may either brush your lap or trip on the water. Higher than that and the angle is too steep. I would suggest that modification for anyone.

[Ambler]

  On 8/2/2014 at 10:15 PM, Howard said:

A couple issues I'd suggest for anyone wanting to modify a Spindrift. First, if you intend to row at all, find a way/place to put some cleats on the sole of the boat so you have something for your feet to brace against when you row. You will want your arms, legs, back and all related parts pulling, and unless you have something for your feet to brace against, that ain't going to happen. Without foot braces, it is simply your arms pulling against your butt friction on the seat.

 

Second, modify the height of the oarlocks to your own personal physique. When the oars are held level on the thwarts, you want them to hit you about belly button high. Lower than that and the oars may either brush your lap or trip on the water. Higher than that and the angle is too steep. I would suggest that modification for anyone.

 

All really good points worth noting, Howard.

 

Fortunately I've been rowing for about 65 years (ouch - but not continuously!) so I was generally wise to them and made sure things fit me before they were cast in epoxy.

And I made the footrest adjustable for shorter folks.

Anyone doing this be aware the vertical sides of  the flotation compartments are not fore-&-aft parallel to each other. The lighter coloured backing to my "over the waves" rack is actually a plywood piece planed to a taper; a detail of which as an inexpert woodworker I'm quite proud.