ecgossett Posted January 7, 2014 Posted January 7, 2014 Originally when I built my CS17 I used a mold and made fiberglass waterways for underneath the seats. If I had to do it again I would use only two layers of glass, and back it all with wood. http://messing-about.com/forums/topic/7367-hatch-waterway-mold/ At Graham's very strong urging and my general dislike of the leaky results that have gotten worse over time, I've upgraded mine to the full wood, back by double layers of 6 ounce tape on outside inner seems, and a single layer of tape on the inside narrow parts. For sealing I picked up some cheap foam weather stripping that is 4mm wide, and some wider rubber stripping. If I use the foam it will go around the top lip. Or I can rubber down and use it for the same thing. Of course this leaves it very vulnerable. My other option is to run the wider rubber stripping on the bottom side of the hatch which would also serve to protect it. Any thoughts? I'll post photos later as it's finished. Quote
Scott Dufour Posted January 20, 2014 Posted January 20, 2014 My two cents is to put the weather stripping on the lid, so that when locked down it seals the inner channel lip. I find that the edges of the seat itself gets a lot of wear and tear as items keep going in and out of the hatch, but the underside of the lid doesn't because it's a bit more out of the way when it's open. Quote
Charlie Jones Posted January 20, 2014 Posted January 20, 2014 I've always put the weather stripping on my boats on the under side of the hatch lid. Did it on the Princess 22, the Core Sound 20, the Core Sound 17 and both of my own boats. Quote
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