ecgossett Posted January 15, 2012 Posted January 15, 2012 After inspecting my CS17 I haven't seen for 5 months I found a small 5inch crack on the forward deck about 3 inches back from the bow. It's right in the middle where the two sheets of deck butt join and was filled with epoxy fairing and painted over later.... Not sure if this is a normal place for a crack or something from the cold temperatures etc. This was somewhere eventually I'm going to have bowsprit covering this area eventually. Another small but think it's normal is on the side where the deck is joined to side panel. Just a small 4 inch hairline crack, can't be to bad because me deck is not only set in epoxy with structural filling, but screwed down with stainless steel.. Better to disover it now then in two months. Quote
kf4ibu Posted January 15, 2012 Posted January 15, 2012 Mr. Gossett, My name is Mark in Jacksonville, Fl and am VERY interested in the CS15/17. Any way I can drive up and see yours? I can be contacted at kf4ibu at yahoo.com. Hope to hear from you. Thank you, Mark Quote
John Burritt Posted January 15, 2012 Posted January 15, 2012 Having joints open up like you're describing seems a bit unusual. Do you have a center plank supporting the deck join from below to which everything is epoxied? Was the deck epoxied to minimize expansion/contraction before it was painted? Was the deck/side panel seam filleted w/ thickened epoxy underneath? Maybe all this is redundant, but I'm surprised at the amount of movement you're describing. Quote
ecgossett Posted January 15, 2012 Author Posted January 15, 2012 The crack is hairline... Yes it was filleted and had a center plank underneith... All I could come up with was the sun on it for 5 months might have helped with the crack a little bit. The entire deck was coated with 4 coats of epoxy before priming and then painting. Quote
John Burritt Posted January 16, 2012 Posted January 16, 2012 Sounds llike the sun really did a number on it. Any idea how hot the surface got in the sun? Maybe you should be pleased w/ how little the wood moved compared to what would have happened if it had only had a traditional finish w/ nothing sealing the wood. Quote
ecgossett Posted January 16, 2012 Author Posted January 16, 2012 Photos of the cracks.. The infrared view seems to show them better.... The cracks look hairline and the one on the side looks like the side decided to bulge just a milimeter out, it's not the deck to side crack but wood seperating from wood from stress. Looks easy to fix.. The one on my centerboard appeared the day after I painted it. No water has ever come through (inside is glassed), and just need to seal it up. Crack along deck I'm considering routing out and filling with thickened epoxy. Forward deck crack I'm going to dribble in epoxy and forget about it as I'm putting a teak board over it for the anchor roller. - Edward Quote
John Burritt Posted January 17, 2012 Posted January 17, 2012 I'd say that the combination of hot sun & dark green paint caused the hull to expand & crack the joints that wouldn't expand. That dark green probably got REALLY HOT. Do you have any way to keep the boat out of direct sunlight? The cracked seam on the centerboard trunk is another issue. That shouldn't happen. Is the glass inside still secure to the wood of the trunk? It'd be a bit of a pain, but I'd sand and round the vertical joints - then cover the verticals with glass tape, fair & repaint. How are you going to secure the board for the anchor roller? Quote
ecgossett Posted January 17, 2012 Author Posted January 17, 2012 The glass inside is still secured... I think when I painted it in August that it was really hot and humid and the humidity under the paint probably expanded and popped the primer a little bit. Between cutting out the trunk and reinstalling it in a different position and high humidty probably played wacko with warping wood etc. We are in the process of building a PVC shelter to fit on top of deck to hold tarp off boat.. Boat is normally kept on north side of house.. This should really help the whole thing stay cool. Anchor roller board is going to be bolted on with 3M 4500 caulk underneith (want to be able to remove to refinish). The board will go around mast hole and give the extra lip to keep out water. Quote
ecgossett Posted January 22, 2012 Author Posted January 22, 2012 Update: Most of my filler for the hull cracks held! One crack it enlarged and the epoxy filler is cracked. Next step is to widen with dremel bit and refill crack again. What I thought was a paint crack on centerboard is an actual crack where water came in. Discovered it might have been caused by centerboard being pushed against trunk case/post by trailer. Just need to come up with better way to keep centerboard up on trailer overtime. Quote
DISTELTK Posted January 22, 2012 Posted January 22, 2012 I keep my (BRS15) centerboard up by having a wooden dowel accross the trunk close to the handle. This is held by an eye screwed on each side of the trunk. My boat sits on a trailer for long periods of time and many miles of travel and never drops with this setup.. No photo or drawing. Sorry Tom D. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.