keimel Posted May 21, 2010 Posted May 21, 2010 I wrote my questions and info down, but I want to add up front a newbie alert. I've never built a boat. I've not taken a class. I have moderate skills with wood, but I'm sure this will be testing those skills. I confess that I am a newbie and might be missing plenty of normal things people already know because they're so basic. And for that innocence, I beg your indulgence. I have a Moccasin 2 plan and recently had the chance to sit in the waiting room at the "walk in clinic" to get my foot x-rayed. It was a great opportunity to read through the plans! I have some questions. For the keel, the material list says 1"x1", 3/4"x3/4" x 10' but the instructions (fillet and tape, keel page) read 5/4" x 11' . Do I believe the material list or the instructions? Yes, I know that a 5/4" is actual 1". But the list and instructions are at odds. Taping: Do you overlap the glass tape? How much? The doubler panel: How many times does one score the doubler panel to make it fit right? Once? A few? Depends on the wood I use? Stem centerline: I should only bevel the ply where it meets at the centerline, and not where the sides meet the bottom? It seems that the sides butt up onto the top of the bottom. This makes some sense to me, so I'm okay if that's the answer, but I wanted to check. Spreaders: I have the moccasin 2. I think it should have 2 spreaders, but there's only measurements for one spreader. Did I get a wrong sheet? Or have other folks simply been more creative with adding two spreaders and it's not documented? Spreaders: The general construction guide calls for installing the spreaders before the inwales. The instruction page (spreader) says to install the spreader AFTER the inwales are glued in. Which to believe? Spreaders: Am I correct in calling the spreaders thwarts? This is what I learned years ago for canoeing merit badge Stitching: I can see how the fillet will fill in around and amongst my stitches, evermore to become part of the boat. I can see why one would use copper wire if using wire. But what happens to the outside? There's no indication of what to do with the outside part of the stitches. In the recent wooden boat, they're building a 16/30 canoe and I see that they say to snip the outside stitches. When and how is that done? If I fillet, tape and epoxy the inside seams, wouldn't cutting off all the outside stitches allow the boat to simply pop apart? Also, on those outer joints, once I've glued the insides, shall I round over those outside joints with a plane (or similar tool) to take down the sharp edges? Okay, that's all the questions for now. For now. Am hoping that perhaps memorial day weekend I'll be able to have the plywood and cut some wood up. We shall see! I want to get the ply cut before heading off to camp in June. It'll speed up the process of the whole boat, I think. I hope. Thanks all for any input. (p.s. once the rains come back and I'm unable to work outside in the spring weather, I'll work on the domain - hull187.com , which will be the wordpress blog that shows my project) Quote
kcjones Posted May 21, 2010 Posted May 21, 2010 I am almost finished with my Moccasin 2. :grin: I Quote
John Burritt Posted May 21, 2010 Posted May 21, 2010 Here's an alternative idea for "stitching & gluing" the inside seams. Once the seams are properly stitched - tied into proper shape w/ the wire ties, place a small fillet - small enough that you can do final filleting & taping over it w/out it being ugly - between each wire tie. Once the small fillets have cured, you can cut out the ties. The boat will stay together unless you do something really brutal to it. Sand the small fillets a bit and then do your final filleting & taping. Fillet w/ well thickened epoxy; lightly wet the resulting surface w/ unthickened epoxy; lay in the fiberglass tape (prior posts debate wetting it before or after its laid in place); re-wet the tape w/ enough unthickened epoxy to be sure its saturated, but not so much that it causes the glass to float off the fillet. Once you've cleaned up the edges of the cured taped seam, apply sufficient coats of epoxy to fill the weave and saturate the wood. Quote
Terry Dunn Posted May 21, 2010 Posted May 21, 2010 KC, Is " next weekend" 5/22, 5/23 or 5/29, 5/30? I am only a few miles from Cherry Creek. It might be fun to see your boat. It took me 8 years to get around to painting my S10. Quote
kcjones Posted May 22, 2010 Posted May 22, 2010 I'll be there 28-31. Campsite #008. Are you going to have your S boat or CS there? Quote
Terry Dunn Posted May 22, 2010 Posted May 22, 2010 We have out of town company next weekend but they are leaving Sunday. I may make it over on Sunday afternoon. The park will probably be full so I don't think I will be able to bring a boat. I will probably hike in if I can make it. It is always fun to see another home built craft. Quote
keimel Posted May 25, 2010 Author Posted May 25, 2010 First pics. Okay, it has little to do with the boat, except that I'll use these to build the boat. Oddly, I was building three of these, all slightly different width (stackable) and I screwed up one of them, cutting the wrong 15 Quote
kcjones Posted May 25, 2010 Posted May 25, 2010 They will work just fine. Make your strong back sturdy. You'll be putting a couple hundred pounds on her. Quote
keimel Posted May 26, 2010 Author Posted May 26, 2010 Couldn't resist the draw of the new saw. I had to finish the third one tonight. 28", 32" and 36" width each. Quote
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