Princess 28 model continues

[Garry]

I finally made some more progress on the model. Here a re a few pics of the planking. I decided to start at the sheer despite Graham's recommendation to find a good spot at the turn of the bilge and work in both directions. It seems to be going well. There is a bit more twist at the turn of the bilge which makes it only a little slower. The cement sets up in ten seconds which is just about right to get it set and hold it for a few seconds.

I glued each plank half at a time: place a dab glue of at the forward end and between each station. After that was set, I would glue the other half in place. I covered the bow frame with tape to try to keep from sticking to it. The stern is the finish piece so I can glue directly to it. As I got into the turn of the bilge, I would glue just the forward end first and then glue the first half twisting the plank into place.

This much only took about three hours so far. Trimming them at the keel centerline will be a bit more tedious.

[Greg Luckett]

I had no idea until these pics just how big your "model" is. I had reservations about how much could be learned by doing a model until now. I am impressed even more!!

Thanks

[Garry]

At 1"=1' the model is 28" long. But it is still hard to work at that scale. I'm glad I made the planking 1/8" which scales to 1-1/2". Its fairly easy to work with but I still get some uneven planking and the seams open up as I round the turn of the bilge. I'll probably give it a light coat of epoxy with a little filler to stabilize it then sand it down to smooth it. I might give it a light layer of fiberglass.

It would be interesting to make a radio controlled model. The cat ketch would be easy to rig and sail remotely. That might be fun!

Has anyone ever played with RC sailboats?

[Garry]

Here are some more shots as I completed the planking.

[Tom Williams]

WOW Garry --- It's beautiful! Makes me want to build a stripper now that my shop is boatless.

Keep the pictures coming.

Tom

[Guest Oyster]

Garry, FWIW, in real life, it maybe that you will not be able alternate single strips in real life. If you look closely, you will see multiple strips on one side, sanded off, and overlayed strips on the other side.

One of the main reasons for this, is the continued semi twisting that you will get especially the turn of the bilges. I would also recommend cutting a slight angle on one side, or keeping in hand a sharp hand plane while fitting your strips.

[edt]

From my point of view, the trickiest aspect of strip planking are the planks to close the bottom where you have to cut the ends at an angle. Looking at Gary's model just before he starts to add these planks I notice only a very small curve (side to side). Would it not make building easier and faster if this curve was flattened (side to side NOT end to end) and plywood used for the bottom?

Comments?

Ed Tomlinson

[Garry]

I absolutely agree that I took some shortcuts with the model. There are some gaps and misfits that I would not allow on the real thing. I would rely on the final plans and further instruction to plank the full-size hull.