Alright I'm going to hang it out there

[Phil]

The welder shown in your link is okay for repairs (ie 1-6" inches) you use it similar to using a torch set up for welding metal. Pre-heating the material and rod manually as you press the rod into the joint. Any decent auto-body shop has one. The difference between this and what I used is the same as between a MIG or TIG welder & stick & torch method (huge diff.)

http://www.laramyplasticwelders.com/torchpage.html

The 30-10 is the one I used:

With a speed tip which feeds as you go (36" rods) & makes doing continuous long welds very easy. You have to be careful as overheating will cause material deformation, the same as in thin metal. I worked both sides of the boat simultaneously stopping 1/2 way thru each rod. Forming is a little tricky I tried 90 deg. bends but the 1/4" material is to thk.

You now HDPE is what most formed products are made of (ie..roto-moulding kayaks, rod holders you name it...) in a spinning autoclave setup using pellets of what ever material the part requires. There is also vaccum-forming. all-in-all

edit to add: order the book for $5 it's worth it just for the low down! The recycle symbol on all plastic products is the stamp mentioned (the one with a 2 is HDPE) ou could weld your plastic coffee can to your boat 8)

[Stump]

Neat. 8) sort of a cross between stitch and glue and metal fabrication. Except lighter... :roll:

[Phil]

Yea Stump exactly. I considered using the stitching technique, but didn't want all the holes. Instead I built sunnyside-up with no forms or jigs. Just tack welded +/- 12"'s oc. with a tacking tip (no welding rod)

Oyster what does FWIW mean? :oops:

[Barry Pyeatt]

I think he means For What It's Worth!