Different sort of wood question

[Mark Gudschinsky]

In our boat shed there is a Skipjack on the ways. Her builder is Laura (9 years old) who has recently become interested in woodcarving. Santa brought her a full set of carving tools, and Dad got her the first Nora Hall video on European wood carving.

Laura watched the video and started right in. Like most of us, she has visions of hand carved trailer boards, a crafted transom with the boats name, and a mermaid for a figurehead. Unlike most of us she is determined.

She's a bit away from managing a mermaid for a figurehead, but often kids often surprise us adults with their abilities, so I figure I better be ready with some knowledge for her to build upon. That's where you guys come in.

There is good info out there on selecting woods for carving, but little on selecting woods that will live on a boat. General wood choices for the boats them selves have been well covered, but how about wood for carving that will live on boats. The woods need to be carveable, but not necessarily structural. These boats that the kids captain are used often and hard, so the wood should probably be tough.

Opinions? Experience? Suggestions?

[Greg Luckett]

Mark,

I am thinking that a Maple or a Mahogany would be good for this. Ash too.

[Dave R1]

I don't think I'd go with maple. Mahogany would be good and to start with for her, boxwood, basswood or yellow poplar would be good choices. Red cedar might also be a nice would for her to start with. Since the trailboard or name board will get varnished or painted, I wouldn't be too concerned at this point about rot resistance. I think I'd avoid woods with hardness variations between early and late wood (pine, redwood, etc.) and hardwoods like maple or cherry.

[Barry Pyeatt]

Mark,

I often get questions about wood for carving and how it will stand up in marine use. Done a bit of carving and various carved signs and other projects for exterior Marine exposure over the years and have studied and worked with the Pacific Coastal Indians over the years studying their carving techniques, art forms, totem poles, masks and canoe making

First consideration is ease of carving for a novice. This will eliminate most hardwoods and softwoods too. Since there is too much of a difference between the annular growth ringa and the much harder rings. This makes the wood difficult to carve and for the novice almost impossible to use. Basswood since it such a consistent wood as far as growth and ease of carving is the logical choice for new carvers. It will allow them to have some ease of carving with and across grain and allow them to develop their hand movement without too much concern about having a huge chip out occuring. When stained or painted and finished it will hold up to marine use OK.

Most of the "Mahogany" is relatively even grain and if you pick a straight grain quarter sawn board you will probably have a good piece to work on. It will accept stain or paint, (with a good primer) and hold up well for marine use. LIttle more difficult to work with hand carving than either of my personal choices but entirely suitable for figurehead, trailboards and transoms.

My personal preferences go to Western Red Cedar and Redwood. Both of which are characterized by even consistent wood growth and are easy to carve. Both will take paint or stains and varnish or oil finishes and of course have a lot of natural rot resistance. Both are a little more brittle than Basswood but very suitable for figurehead carving, trailboards and of course the all important transom with the yacht's name finely carved into it.

I've also used Alder which has been used for hundreds of years by the Pacific Northwest Tribal carvers for masks and clan figures to adorn the prows of the great canoes. And it is easy to acquire. Actually is easy to carve, with relatively consistent grain and will stain or paint beautifully. Is aalso structurally sound but not as rot resistant as Western Red Cedar or Redwood.

The figurehead for my Weekender is a copy of a Coastal Indian Mask that my father carved years ago. It has great meaning for me and has been an inspirational part of our family. It is carved from a half section of an Alder log. Finished with painted character and then satin Varathane exterior varnish. I am copying it for my use since I wouldn't want to damage or loose the original. I've done several other carvings using Alder and have been completely satisfied with the end result as far as workability and of course cost. I can pick it up almost anywhere around here for nothing. Just go out and dig thru a few friends wood piles and pick out a chunk that is already air dried and hasn't checked too badly.

If possible with any of the wood selections, you will want close tight grain, essentially quarter sawn and free of any knots or wild grain and it is easier to work with when it is freshly cut but it is more stable and less prone to checking once completely dried. And Basswood, Western Red Cedar and Redwood are easily worked once dried.

Eliminate Douglas Fir, Spruce, Larch, most all of the Oaks, Locust, Elm, Birch, Maple, Cherry, Walnut, Etc. Not because they can't be carved but they are difficult for a novice to work with the grain variations. Most all of them are great turning woods or Ok for router work etc. But hand carving to begin with is enough of a challenge in itself to not have to fight with wild grains or growth rings.

So go out to the local wood pile and find yourself a nice piece of Alder or Western Red Cedar. Or grab a small piece of Redwood and turn her loose. With of course some good safety tips on using the tools.

[Greg Luckett]

I don't think I'd go with maple. Mahogany would be good and to start with for her' date=' boxwood, basswood or yellow poplar would be good choices. Red cedar might also be a nice would for her to start with. Since the trailboard or name board will get varnished or painted, I wouldn't be too concerned at this point about rot resistance. I think I'd avoid woods with hardness variations between early and late wood (pine, redwood, etc.) and hardwoods like maple or cherry.[/quote']

I was thinking of one of the soft Maples rather than a hard type.

[mrthethird]

I'll agree with the consensus... :?

You can't really go wrong with mahogany or alder. Redwood and Red Cedar are great choices, being very easy to carve, but you need to be more selective. The lighter color "sap" wood is not as rot resistant, so you want to select boards that are mostly if not all the dark red, "heartwood".

Alder and mahogany can be easily had in the widths and lengths needed for a Skipjack keel, or even a Weekender keel, in straight, clear grain.

I'd like to see a carved figurhead, been thinkin about it myself. Post pics.

[JMetzner]

Mark,

I have to echo Barry's suggestions and after working on a Western Red Cedar canoe this winter, I'd highly recommend it. Get some nice straight grain WRC from Superior Hardwoods up the Steese. Robert's Wood products also has Alaska Yellow Cedar, which is pretty nice stuff but brittle.

Whatever you choose, you might want to coat it liberally with linseed oil afterward to repell water.

--John M. (Alaskan in exile)

[Barry Pyeatt]

Yes, I would recommend boiled linseed oil as well. If you heat the wood to force the gasses out of the end grain and apply hot boiled linseed oil it will be drawn into the pores and set up. That will not only strengthen the wood itself but help to prevent any incursion of miosture. It will buff out pretty nicely as well with a soft sheen to it. Then a light wiping of oil perodically will maintain it. 8)

[capt jake]

My Mom carved mine, an Eagle head. I think she used Basswood. I primed it, painted it and all has held up well. The only thing wrong with it is the gold paint I used and didn't seal-coat it. It is starting to oxidize pretty heavily, but it adds a lot of character.

[Barry Pyeatt]

Mark,

One other thing about carving blanks. Don't be afraid to glue up blanks that need to be thicker for perhaps a figurehead. Especially if they are going to be painted. Just be sure that mating surfaces are flat. I use the polyuethane glues (ie. Gorilla Glue) and they do an excellent job for me with Cedar, Alder, Basswood, Redwood, etc. They hold up well in a marine environment as well. I will alternate any obvious grain so that they tend to equalize any stresses.

[Mark Gudschinsky]

Well for initial carving learning and practice we're going with basswood per the videos recommendation. We bought a basswood 2" x 6" 8' long to begin the process. For Laura's boat I'm leaning toward using some mahogany that we already have about, but I'm not set on that yet.

I do think we'll lay hands on a few samples of the other woods suggested and give them a try before any final decision. Superior Hardwoods that John Metzner mentioned is a great resource in our area. They have or will get most any species of wood a person might want. Whats more when Laura and I went up there to purchase the basswood, a sales lady told Laura all about a kids carving contest they hold. Then she showed Laura works by other kids and a variety of tools they stock.

And thanks all for the input so far, more is welcome as always.