Bright Hull on a Spindrift 9n

[hparsons]

I just got my plans, and while I'm a long way from starting the boat, I'm trying to "build it in my mind" long before I start.

I want to keep the hull exterior bright, and pant the interior. When starting, what would I do to keep the exterior hull bright when taping the sides to the bottom pieces?

[John Burritt]

One way would be to consider glassing the outside of the hull. The glass would replace the outside taping, making fairing with filler unnecessary (hopefully). The inside seams would still be filletted and taped of course.

[hparsons]

Why not strike a waterline to the hull and paint the bottomsides with a modified epoxy bottom paint. That way if you leave it in the water for a while' date=' you won't have to worry about the varnish pealing off. You can then finish above the waterline bright and save yourself a lot of work[/quote']

I appreciate the suggestion, but there was a goal when I picked this boat. I spoke with Graham on the phone about finising it bright (even though I didn't know the term at the time, I knew what I wanted), and he assured me it can and has been done. I've even seen the pictures of one done so on the CD. Now I just need to know how.

The boat was chosen to be used on our Coronado 35. We own an O'Day 25 as well, that is right down the road, and we sail it often. However, the "big boat" is on Lake Pontchartrain in Louisiana (with direct Gulf of Mexico access), and we make it out there every 4-6 weeks for a 4 to 9 day "mini vacation". We needed a dink to prowl around the bayous and give us transportation to shore when we take the boat out. At the same time, I wanted something that was more than "just adequate" sitting on the Coronado. I wanted something that actually enhanced the appearance of it. A nested dinghy with a bright finish on the hull exterior fit the bill exactly. The boat will spend much more time on the deck than in the water, and I really like the looks of wood.

[capt jake]

It can be done, but as Ray pointed out, it will take added steps and time. I built a Cedar strip kayak and it took about 8-9 coats of epoxy to fill the weave of 6 oz cloth. You can only see the cloth in the right light/angle.

I would figure that the interior fillets and seams can also be done tastefully and kept bright as well (with careful application).

I have the plans for the mini paw and plan on finishing it bright. I have yet to start and realize that it will take longer to have a bright finish, but I love that look as you do.

Check out http://oneoceankayaks.com/ and poke around his site. there are quite a few pointers and tips to be found there. I built his Expedition Sport and it turned out looking great.

As was already stated, cloth on the outside would be the proper way to strengthen the joints, provide abrasion resistance (some anyway) and a uniform finish.

Oh, and varnish in the water is fine. You won't be leaving it in there for extended periods of time anyway. It won't peel off unless you leave it sit there for a long time.

I should add that I used 9 oz on the chine seams and it disappeared as well.

[capnrazz]

There are two part acrylic and polyurethane varnishes that will hold up better than traditional or modified one part varnishes. Honey Teak, Bristol Finish acrylics, and Smiths 5 year clear polyurethane are examples. Epifanes also makes a premium two part varnish. Not cheap, but you won't need to recoat them twice a year to maintain the finish and you can put on multiple coats in one day without sanding between coats. If the boat is sealed with clear epoxy first, you should not have problems with the varnish cracking or peeling as that is usually the result of water penetrating the finish into the wood underneath. I have also had good results using Flood Marine Penetrol as the thinning agent for oil based varnishes rather than solvent. I don't have any immersed surfaces, but tillers and hatch boards treated with Penetrol have not shown any tendency to lift or peel even when chipped or damaged by abrasion. Slows the varnish drying time a good bit though, plan on only one coat every 24 hours in dry conditions. It is not necessary to sand between buildup coats with Penetrol. Just wipe the surface with penetrol before the next coat and let it dry a few minutes before applying the varnish. Let it cure to a hard finish and sand before the last finish coat or two. May take a week to fully cure and harden. Final finish coats should be undiluted varnish.

Razz

[capt jake]

FWIW, I was informed that my old website documenting the construction of a bright finished Cedar strip kayak is still in existance. Though I haven't updated it in a long time, maybe there is something there to help you out as well.

http://home.comcast.net/~jwentz4/kayak.htm

[hparsons]

What a beautiful boat!! (or is it "fine furniture"?) If my boat looks a 10th that good, I'll be thrilled. First, I have a question for everyone, then a probably "impolite" set of questions for you, but I'll ask anyway.

First question (for all). I've gotten a few responses here and via email that bright finishes are difficult to maintain for working tenders. My boat will definitely be a working boat when it's used, but the nature of our present situation means it won't be used often. However, the warnings have me a little concerned, so here's my question. If I go with a bright finish, then decide to paint over, is this a problem? Common sense tells me no, but I don't want to assume anything.

Now for some "impolite" questions about the kayak speciically and small boatbuilding in general.

Capt Jake - Your website mentioned that you didn't build this out of an interest in kyaks, but rather an interest in boat-buidling and woodworking. What did you do with the boat after you built it? Keep it as a trophy, maybe using it occasionally, or did you sell it? If you sold it, how much did you sell it for?

Now for a few more general questions, and they fall in line with why I asked about that. Is this type of small-boat building something a person can do as an avocation? I work in the computer field, and frankly have long since grown tired of it. I have a plan of 10-15 years down the road, taking an early retirement, and skippering boats as a supplemental income (occasional charters, moving boats for others, etc). Obviously, small-boat building would be another good avocation for someone that wants to semi-retire around boats.

[capt jake]

I don't see a problem at all in converting a previously bright boat to a painted one. Proper prep and you should be good to go.

Let's see; I took the kayak out one long week in CA as i really was hoping to get into kayaking. I am a little too tall for it and ended up getting spit out one too many times. If I were to include some gear, as to ballast it, it probably would be fine. I tried to sell it several times, but no takers. I presently have it hung upside down in the vaulted ceiling of my present house. I was shooting for around $3000 though I have seen strippers go for over $7000.

As for building for a living; Ray here on the forum is giving it a go. I know that you have to obtain liability insurance and carry it for at least 5 years after the last sale. I met a builder in Seattle, a former Seattle police Officer, he gave it a very dilegant attempt for 2 1/2 years and finally went back to the PD. He said he was starving.

One the other side are folks like Charlie, who is obviously making it. Sam Devlin, locally here, is a real success story. He must have played things right at every choice.

BTW, nothing impolite in your questions. Hope this helps.

[hparsons]

I don't see a problem at all in converting a previously bright boat to a painted one. Proper prep and you should be good to go.

"Proper prep work" would be basically sanding' date=' priming, etc as if it had not been left originally bright?

BTW, nothing impolite in your questions. Hope this helps.

I'm glad, but I know I HATE it when someone comes on one of my boats and asks how much I paid for it. Especially the Coronado. I found a desperate seller and paid what I could afford, which means I just about stole it. Telling what I paid makes it sound as if it's junk. Maybe after I get it all fixed up, so it looks like a 40k boat, I won't mind so much.