More questions

[Dick White]

I would like to thank those who responded to my last question about deck dimensions on the Weekender. Now I have some more.

1. Why do the plans call for the transom top and bottom sides to be cut at right angles instead of 22.5 degrees to account for the slope on the stern end of the keel?

2. Are vertical stringers supposed to be attached to the sides of the transom to allow for more secure attachment of the side panels?

3. Are the front bulkhead and the cabin bulkhead attached to the sides or only at the top and bottom?

4. Are the stringers for the seats bottoms attached to the top of the bottom with screws though the stringer into the bottom or up through the bottom into the stringer?

5.Why doesn't the bulkhead, where the wheel is attached, go all the way to the sides?

Any help you can give me will be greatly appreciated and I will have the confidence I need to go on. Thanks.

Dick White

[kydocfrog]

You know, I wondered about number five myself. Seems to me that if that bulkhead when on across, you could get a pretty good flotation chamber out of it, at least one that would slow things down if you put a grommet (right word?) around the tiller where it passes through the transom. Of course since I bought Charlie Girl II when she was well along in hull construction, I don't think there is much that I can do about it.

[Andrew]

I don't have my plans with me at the moment, but I'll try to answer the ones I can

1. The 20ish degree cut is approx for all the stringers/decks that you cut. on the transom you will find that it's a little less than this and it's easier to 'shape' when you are ready to put the sides on (at least it was for me)

2. Yes, I thought this was in the plans??

3. Mine are attached at the sides, but I did have a 1/8" gap at the side of the main bulkhead - so dont add the side stringers to the main bulkhead until the sides go on!

4. Always go from the bottom of the boat, up into the stringer. The other way only gives you 1/4" 'bite' room for the screws

5. The only argument I've seen for this not meeting is so that the space behind the seatback can 'breathe' - to make it a 'flotation chamber' I've filled the space with packing foam (so have lots of others), so that if I do capsize the foam will displace any water that gets in there

Hope this helps

Andrew

PS. Dick, this boat isn't too hard to put together. Prior to this job I had the woodworking skills of Homer Simpson!!

[Barry Pyeatt]

Yes, to all of them. The vertical "stringers" are called "Gussets" and they attach on the inside face of the transom. The angle that the sides meet the bulkheads/transom is closer to 90 degrees than the 22 degree angle on the stringers. The gussets on the sides of the front bulkhead are placed on the forward side of the bulkhead. The gussets on the main bulkhead get placed on the cockpit/seat side of the bulkhead and even though they are quite short add significantly to the structural strength of the assembly. All of them get faired into the hull shape so there is a smooth contact with the side panels for maximum adhesive contact.

Ventilation and free air flow around and thru the entire structure is reasonably important in this type of boat. It lives most of its life on a trailer and most of them have some sort of tarp thrown over them to deflect rainfall from collecting directly in the boat. But with the transom open for the steering tiller and most owners trying to seal it up tight to keep spray/rainwater out of the boat, it tends to become a holding tank for moisture. Most builders don't glass the interiors of the boat but simply paint them. Fertile ground for mold/mildew to form and if not removed and dried out before it gets a good start will cause the wood to rot. That becomes major repair time rather than minor touchup time.

I would add a mildew prevention agent to the primer as well as the finish coats of paint that are used on the interior, it really helps. Paint dealers have it in stock almost everywhere, just ask for it.

If you close up compartments to make floatation chambers of them, and water collects in them either directly or thru condensation, they need to be ventilated to keep them dry. Having an open Lazerette helps to allow air to dry out the hidden/unaccessable places.

I've been a proponent of open hatches, loose covers and circulation fans as well as Dri-Z-Air containers in boats stored over the off season. Helps a lot to keep things dry and mold/mildew free.

A number of builders have added floatation behind the seats and in the lower parts of the Lazerette where it doesn't interfere with the steering system. Sheet foam (closed cell) can be layered into the spaces. I recommend that they not be tightly placed but spaced so that air can move around them. Obviously don't place them until you have finished the spaces completely with paint. Plastic screw top jugs also do a good job, weigh next to nothing and displace a considerable amount of water and can be stuffed into the spaces while still allowing air movement around them.